| Author | Message | ||
     X1nut |
Blake, Ok, 2nd ques. Every V twin. air cooled, pushrod, fuel injected bike over 1000cc that I've ridden just wont run smooth under 2200 rpm. I guess I should have been more specific. My X1's spark plugs are a nice rusty color, and there is just the slightest amount of black soot in the tail pipe. It's always run this way, and never given me any crap. Yes, it has the occasional hic-cup, (MAYBE every 500 miles) and the low speed surging. It's a fairly large displacement air cooled, pushrod V-twin on it's 2nd year of production fuel injection...you think it's gonna be perfect? From H-D & Buell??? That's funny...TextHee hee...rolling... Ok, sorry... just trying to compose myself. I'll stop now. x1nut p.s. Could you imagine the turbulence in the intake on this engine at this speed? | ||
| X1nut |
Blake, I guess my test on the tps wont tell you if the computer is zeroed to the tps, but it will tell you if the tps is reading correctly. There's no way to tell what the computer is doing without a scanner. oops...rambling again. | ||
| Ara |
Blake, I'm at 660 ASL - not much different from you. The bike came with a #42 pilot and a #195 main jet and it was exceptionally difficult to ride at constant throttle. It was actually dangerous in traffic. The mods I've done have made the bike very sweet to ride. I can't feature that I'm too rich on top with my #205 jet with the milage I've been getting. I'm usually between 57 and 61 mpg, but got 63 mpg on my last fill up. Russ | ||
| Blake |
X1nut, As I understand it, the TPS voltage for throttle fully closed is inconsequential as long as it is within specified operational limits. It does NOT need to be 0.5V. The calibration process has nothing to do with setting the TPS voltage; rather it upploads to the ECM the actual TPS output voltage for the fully closed throttle. The actual throttle closed voltage can be anything within the operational range specified, from zero to 0.5 volts I seem to recall. I agree that the voltage should increase smoothly as the throttle is opened. As to surging at low speeds... Under NO circumstances should you be riding under power with the engine below 2500 rpm, especially the later model Buells (model year 2000 and later)with their lightened flywheels. Personally, 2700 rpm (~55 mph) is the MINIMUM I ever run in high gear. Anything less and I can sense the tortuous lugging/shaking the engine imparts to the driveline. At 2200 rpm the surging you feel may well be your primary drive being torn apart by the under-attenuated power pulses produced by each of the 600cc cylinders. As an illustration, think of the engine as pushing your bike by hitting the tail end with a hammer. Would you rather have that hammer hit real hard once every second or would you like to have it hit more easily but more often? Keep the revs up and your problem is solved. If it is happening during take off, you may have a problem (intake leak, TPS miscalibrated,...). If you used your erroneous method for checking/setting your TPS, you might want to have it properly calibrated by your dealer. And yes, from what I've seen and experienced, the DDFI in it's properly tuned form is one of the absolute best motorcycle fuel injection systems I've seen. But then again, I don't ride around at 2200 rpm on a Buell either. One more thing, using spark plug color is no better than a general indicator of an engine's overall air/fuel mixture health. Especially with today's cleaner burning fuel, it is a poor diagnostic tool for fine tuning an engine. | ||
| Blake |
Ara, I see you have the Dynojet kit. That makes a big difference methinks. Great MPGs! I did get 67 mpg two tanks in a row coming home from Colorado in 1998. The thin air hurts peak HP, but it is also a LOT easier to cruise through at 70 mph.  | ||
| Ara |
Thanks, Blake, and now you've REALLY piqued my curiosity. What do you have reference to with regard to the Dynojet kit? I actually wasn't much impressed with what was included in it. The largest main jet it came with was a #190, which was smaller than the OEM jet. I suppose they thought that they should compensate for that with an accelerator pump tower that had an orifice so large that I couldn't start the bike with the choke on. Well anyway, what are you thinking about? I've come to really respect your technical competence as well as your tireless helpfulness. I know I'm about to learn something...  Russ | ||
| X1nut |
Blake Good point about the tps. As far as riding below 2200 rpm, I don't ever do that, either. I was just trying to point out that if you do, your engine's gonna surge and run bad. Anywho, does anyone know of a good fix to keep my front chin spoiler bracket in one piece? Seems the stock units never make it much more than a week on my bike. | ||
| Bjack |
I have a Y2K M2. I overtightened the choke/enricher assembly while putting things back together after re-jetting the carb. I ordered the new enricher cable and received it but it came without instructions. Does anyone have any (semi)detailed instructions on how to replace the enricher cable? Thanks.  | ||
| Shotgun |
I just replaced my regular Hypercharger with the upgraded Pro kit that includes the 30% larger K&N filter. I re-jetted to a 44 pilot and a 200 main and she is running great. The best combination I have found so far. I found a quiet, straight country road and wound her up. Just at 130 MPH indicated, the engine sputtered and lost rpms until I let off the gas. I was pulling about 6200 RPM at that point, but I have the race ignition, so it should not have been the rev limiter kicking in. It was only 67F out and less than 1000' elevation. It's not like I need 130+ MPH, I'm just curious as to what she can do. Which is the more likely culprit, fuel starvation from the stock strainer/tank spigot or insufficient gas tank venting? | ||
| Blake |
Shotgun, sounds to me like you are running rich. Try going back to a 190 or 195 main jet. A 200 is a BIG main jet. I think some here have gotten the impression that all the jetting comes from the factory in a lean state. This is not true; only the low and mid range tends towards lean. The main jet is actually most often too fat or just right for high speed WOT conditions. | ||
| Spiderman |
Blake, sorry i thought i said needle, I have a needle with a c-clip that i can move up or down to make lean or rich. When my plugs are just a smidge on the black side i move the clip up and bam away i go. | ||
| Shotgun |
Blake, I put the A/F guage on this afternoon and took a spin. She is running 13.5 at idle, 13.8 at mid range, at 13.0 at WOT. Per Aaron's M2 chart, that WOT is about perfect. Still think it is fuel starvation at top end. My float is set for a full bowl, just short of overflow. I think 130 MPH just sucked it dry. | ||
| Ebear |
To Jose Quinones: The Procedure you mentioned to alleviate problems due to running out of gas worked!! I had ridden it around and it hadnt changed at all untill I followed that procedure and now it seems fine. THANKS!!! | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Ebear, Thats Great! Nice to hear that it worked out well for you. | ||
| Snowdave |
I now have a Voltmeter hooked to my O2 sensor on my M2. What voltage should I tune the carb to? Right now it runs a pretty constant 0.9V and runs pretty good, but I know that is very rich compared to the .4-.6 that the X1 manual lists for the proper sensor range. Any ideas and suggestions? | ||
| Shotgun |
Snowdave: the following will get you in the ballpark on voltage to A/F values: 0.4 - 15.0:1 0.5 - 14.7:1 0.6 - 14.6:1 0.7 - 14.5:1 0.8 - 14.2:1 0.88 - 13.5:1 0.9 - 13.2:1 1.0 - 12.5:1 Look at some of Aaron's best Dyno runs with M2's and you will see him pretty close to 13.0 across the rev band. That is power-rich. Just be sure you don't get down much below 0.8v. With a little margin for error, you could get too lean if conditions change. Let us know how it goes. | ||
| Xgecko |
OK I know I did something stupid I just want to know how stupid and if I can fix it. On the bottom of a CV 40 carb there are three brass objects. Slow jet, main jet and another brass plug looking thing. What is that other???? Ok I know what it is ...the starter jet I was dumb and drilled out some of it...how bad is this???? Have I really messed things up??? | ||
| Ara |
Xgecko, please be more specific. What exactly did you drill, how big, how far, etc. | ||
| Xgecko |
 about 3/8" into the starter jet with a 1/8" bit....how hard is it to replace change this jet??? | ||
| Ara |
Xgecko, If we're talking about the same thing, it squirts fuel into the carb throat when you twist the throttle and it's called the Accelerator Pump Jet or Accelerator Pump Tower. I recall that it just screws in, so unless you've damaged the threads it should be both easy and inexpensive to replace. Do you have the stock part or has an aftermarket jet kit been installed? If the latter, I have a hint for you. Russ | ||
| Xgecko |
check this out CV Carb The starter jet as listed here is what I drilled out. The bike runs a low idle at startup and then progressing to a higher than normal idle. | ||
| Sarodude |
Does anyone know of a schematic diagram of some sorts for the Keihin CV carb - with all the various configurations? IE - with / without Accellerator pump, with / without port vacuum thingie, etc... -Saro | ||
| Sarodude |
Tony- It looks like the Starter Jet is related to the Choke / Enrichener circuit. I don't have a carb in front of me but it would seem that if you didn't go too deep (depending on the diameter where that jet meets another passage?) you'd be OK. Agreements? Disagreements? Cuss-words? -Saro | ||
| Xgecko |
I drilled further than I thought I think. This morning it wouldn't idle at all until it warmed up. Once it warmed up it iddled well over 2K and had little to no engine braking. It pops on decel. That's what I get for working from Xeroxed directions the arrow pointing to the Airmix stopped over the starter jet. I drilled. | ||
| Xgecko |
Anyone know if this is the same carb as what is on my Blast...minus the choke obviously | ||
| Sarodude |
Tony- Hang tight on that carb deal if you can. I know a Harley guy who has 'a closet full' of CV carbs he feels are worthless. I'll likely trade a stock FXD exhaust (he's got a crashed bike he's turning around) that he'll likely take for some of those worthless carbs. One of 'em will have your name on it if you like - IF this thing works out... I'll likely know tonight. Check your yahoo email between 6pm and 7pm Pacific. -Saro | ||
| Aaron |
The Blast CV has no accel pump, uses an auto-enrichener, and has a tps bolted on to it. | ||
| Xgecko |
Yeah I noticed the TPS. is that an item that can be bolted onto any CV carb or is it a blast CV carb specific thing??? | ||
| Aaron |
Uh, I'd have to look at my Blast carb, but my memory (always dangerous) tells me there's a special mounting provision on it for the tps. | ||
| Xgecko |
On further inspection I see that you are right Aaron which means I'm stuck either repairing or replacing it (ouch $350) with an OEM carb It serves me right for not researching any maintianence I do better and for only relying on shoddy directions and the P3 manual (Aaron you want to sell your's????) |
