| Author | Message | ||
     V2win |
Coop, Another item that can cause your problems is the temp sensor in the top of the rear head. Racerboy had similar symptoms as you and it turned out to be the temperature sensor. It requires a special socket to remove. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Coop, Long shot, but would fit your scenario..Did you completely clean your air filter and re-oil it? Reindogs XR400 was recently running like crap, with similar symptoms, and that's all it took to restore it to normal. If the fitler is clogged with oil, it will run like the choke is left on. Al | ||
| Jima4media |
I e-mailed Techlusion about their ECM mod and they send a reply about using it with an X-1 or S3. (See above post) --------------- Currently our product functions on the Buell's but triggers fault codes and lights the FI lite. We are working on an fix for that issue but currently are asking Buell owners to wait. Thank you for your interest in our product. Rick -------------- In other words they have the same problem as the Dynojet Power Commander III with Buell fuel injected bikes. Jim X-2.5 | ||
| Barryx1m |
Hi, I am a new Buell owner (00 X1 Millenium) though I've been a bueller for the past year, often reading postings here and on the yahoo forum. Over the past month I did a few mods to my 2000 X1 all with great results, until ... I recently installed a Forcewinder XR/2, and pro series plug wires. Prior to this the only other modification made was a VH slip-on and buell splitfire plugs. Now the bike craps out on hard acceleration, like it's running lean. I upgraded the ECM to the Race module (as I was going to do so anyway) hoping it would solve the crapping out problem. The shop I went to (they race Buells) was very thorough in resetting the TPS and since I had the problem with the stock ECM and Forcewinder, I have no reason to think it's related. I've also noticed that all the initial performance mods have improved the low and mid range, but after about 20-30 miles of riding after each upgrade it seemed to lose some of the low/mid-end responsiveness that was there after the intial mod. Any input would be appreciated.... | ||
| Doncasto |
Barry: You might find one reason here | ||
| Coop |
This payday I'm going to buy a new 02 sensor, hopefully this will work, if not I will go to the dealer, hopefully I wont have to they are an hour away and I dont have to much confidence in them, I'm sure the 02 sensor is covered in black soot, the plugs were and when I ran my finger inside the end of muffler it was also covered in soot, is it common for the 02 sensors to go bad, I only have 1000 miles on the bike, maybe when the dealer overfilled the oil and all that mess went into the intake it damaged the 02 sensor, I dont know, thank-you for responding | ||
| Sarodude |
Coop- I've never tried this, but sometimes when people want to clean lead deposits off an O2 sensor they torch it. Caviats: * I don't know if this really works * It's probably REALLY easy to damage the sensor by overcooking it * Nobody EVER listens to me so you better not either!  -Saro | ||
| Pilk |
Coop, go to the x-1 files it has a list of o2 sensors, what works what doesnt. I put a Bosch in my X-1 cost about 14 bucks at autozone, think it also fits chevy pickup. Pilk ps The O2 sensor WILL cause the running conditions you describe. | ||
| Pilk |
DOH! The bosch P/N is at the top of this page, sorry.  Pilk | ||
| Coop |
I will try the bosch 02 sensor and install the ngk dcpr8e plugs at the same time and then I will post if this cures my problem or not. | ||
| Blake |
Coop, Suggest you change ONE thing at a time. Try the sensor first! | ||
| Coop |
blake, ok, just changed the sensor, now when it stops down pouring I will test drive. | ||
| Coop |
Blake, went for a ride with new 02 sensor today and there is a huge difference, I guess I had a bad sensor, no more breaking up, but I still have the low rpm surges and popping when engine breaking, you mentioned and I've seen something on the x1 files that these are the symtoms of a header leak, sprayed soapy water when cold, but there was no bubbles, is there another way to check for a header leak? maybe I will just change the gaskets and see if this cures the problem, after putting in the new 02 sensor I developed a new problem, my front tire keeps coming up off the ground. | ||
| Shotgun |
Aaron--- I noted a posting awhile back where you said that the limit to power was less likely to be rpms as it was getting enough air to the engine. I was thinking along those lines, turbo-charger, super-charger, etc. What about compressed air? Could compressed air, introduced at the carb in controlable amounts allow us to maximize engine productivity/make use of more available fuel delivery? Just for kicks and giggles, what do you think? | ||
| Gingerbreadman |
I have installed a handmade intake and moved the IAT sensor to the front of the bike is this going to cause problems down the road?I have also installed catch cans that I made with cnc machined aluminum holders.Looking for a digital camera so I can post some pics.k/n filter v/h slip on race ECM 99/x1 reactor yellow.  | ||
| Blake |
Coop, That's great news. Burbling/backfiring during decceleration are the best indicators of exhaust header gasket leaks. Be careful loosening the header nuts. The last thing you want to do is break a header mounting stud. Good luck. | ||
| Ara |
Anybody ever use some of that fuel line insulation material on their bike? Just a thought, with the fuel line running between two very hot cylinders. Russ | ||
| Shotgun |
Ok, no response to my 6/21 ref to compressed air, let me elaborate. Two ideas: 1)use a small (1 gal or less) air tank. Keep it pumped up to 100 lbs or so with one of the cheap 12V compressors for home tire filling. Regulate it into the 5/8 in hole in my Hypercharger spacer for crankcase return (un-needed because my crankcase goes into my JAZ can) at, say 8 lbs or so and just use it for short term boost above 4000 rpm. 2) mount a small air tank that could be filled at the filling station, same delivery scenario as above. 3) mount a smallish scuba tank at 3000 lbs of pressure, regulated to supply air on demand. What do you foresee as the problems involved? Filtration? Regulation? Effect? Cost? Who knows? If you can put fuel in a Firebolt frame, maybe you could make a tube frame into an air tank? Again, for shits and giggles, hypothetically speaking. | ||
| Blake |
Shotgun, The amount of air required FAR exceeds the capacity of any reasonably sized air tank. Think in terms of mass/weight. Look how much nitrous gets sucked down in a short time. It starts out in liquid form and so has a vastly larger reservoir. 150 psi is roughly 10 atmposheres so a one cubic foot tank (~7 to 8 gallons) at 150 psi would hold roughly 10 cubic feet of air and you cannot get the last cubic foot out. Your engine sucks in close to a hundred cubic feet per minute at full throttle and 5000 rpm. An electric fan (mini blower) might be a better approach. I saw a Japanese Buell pictured once that had some kind of electric fan to help boost the intake. | ||
| V2win |
Ara, I have a 97 too. Mine came with insulation. | ||
| Ara |
V2win, Mine has just a rubber over-tube. Same as yours? I think it's more to protect the fuel line from vibration-induced rubbing than to insulate it against heat. I bought some 1/2 inch glass fibre fuel line insulation at an automotive performance shop yesterday to put my idea to the test. If possible I'll put the rubber tube over the insulation, but if it won't fit I'm going to try some heavy wire wrap material. Do you have any suggestions? I'm certainly all ears! Russ | ||
| Dugus |
HEY YOU GUYS, I HAVE GOT A '98 S3 AND GENERALLY ENJOY IT.VANCE AND HINES EXAUST, SIDE WINDER INTAKE, DYNOJET KIT. MY PROBLEM...POOR CARBURETION AT 2000-2500 RPM,UPON DECELERATION,IN THE FORM OF A LURCH. HAVE TRIED EVERY CARB SET-UP KNOWN TO MAN. I HAVE TRIED EVERY SIZE PILOT JET FROM 40 TO 50 WITH BEST RESULT AT 48 BUT STILL NOT PURFECT. 'AM WONDERING IF THIS IS A CONDITION THAT IS NOT TUNEABLE.I HAVE NOTICED THIS CONDITION EXISTS ON NEW BIKES THAT I HAVE TEST RIDIN TO A GREATER OR LESSER DEGREE, PERHAPS A CAM TIMING SIDE EFFECT,'YOU KNOW, OVERLAP OR SOME OTHER WIERDNESS. | ||
| Mikej |
"AT 2000-2500 RPM" The only time your bike should be at that RPM range is when you're warming it up, or when you're accelerating from a stoplight in first gear. Once you're moving, your bike will be happier at 3,000rpm and higher. | ||
| Aaron |
Dugus: take a close look at this page for some very important info about Forcewinders and CV carbs. And lose the caps! | ||
| Mikej |
Aaron, Do you have a pic of the Forcewinder after the carving, as a comparison to the ones shown? | ||
| Aaron |
No, next time I do it I'll try to remember to take a pic, it's about what you'd expect though. | ||
| V2win |
Ara, Sounds like you already have the same as I. The "fire sleeving" available from Taylorvertex.com is certainly better in that it is much more substantial. I too thought about changing out the stock insulation to something better, but since I never had any problem with the fuel vaporizing, I let the idea sink back into oblivion. Their silver sleeving would just about match my frame color. Now that idea is starting to float to the top again............ | ||
| Barryx1m |
Well it appears Coop has solved his problems with crapping out by replacing his O2 Sensor and since it is a relatively inexpensive part I'm gonna give that a try and see if it solves the same problem I am having. I've also read in a previous post that the temp sensor in the rear cylinder (if faulty) can cause a similar problem. Can anyone else confirm that? The reason I ask is that I was stuck in raceday traffic leaving Sears Point this weekend and I know the bike was getting hot after 20 minutes idling in the sun. I expected the engine light to blink indicating a high heat condidtion and the ECM to react (retard timimg per a TSB that I read) but the engine light didn't blink! Does the race ECM not have this feature as the stock ECM does? Or could it be my temp sensor? | ||
| Ara |
V2win, Compare with Thermo Tec's "Thermo-Sleeves" at http://www.thermotec.com/tt/sleeves.html. They're a little pricey, but they'll also match your frame color. Russ | ||
| Blake |
Ara, you having problems with fuel vaporizing in the line? DUGUS, WHAT MIKEJ SAID. LUGGING THE ENGINE LIKE THAT IS NOT GOOD. KEEP THE REVS ABOVE 2500, 3000 if accelerating. AM CONFUSED HOW CARBURETION IS AN ISSUE WHEN DECELERATING. AARON'S SUGGESTION IS ALSO VERY IMPORTANT. Blake (done yelling)  |
