| Author | Message | ||
     Mbsween |
Okay, thought the X1 had something bad going on int the top end. Wmitting a strange metal on metal noise above 3500rpm. The noise kept getting more noticable, gas mileage went to crap, and power seemed to be falling off. Turns out the upper exhaust stud on the front cylinder had backed itself about 1/2 way out. The noise I was hearing was the retaining ring rattling around. So I got new exhaust (and intake) seals. Pulled the header no problem. I thought the exhaust seals would be easy to get off, but this is a 30,000 mile bike, and I can hardly see the damn things. Is there any recommended way to get them out, or just pull the old stuff out with pliers/screwdriver? Thanks Matt | ||
| Mbsween |
Well to answer my own post (is that socially unacceptable?) a screwdriver (small) and a little prying works just fine | ||
| Sportyeric |
Learning how to wrench on them is half the fun. Good work and good luck. My first learning experience in that area: the torque on the exhaust nuts is 90 INCH-pounds, not foot-pounds. | ||
| Mbsween |
Sporty, roger that, I was using 96 in-lb as 6-8 ft-lbs seemed low. So I used the high end of the spec. I find it weird that an interference fit stud backet itself out. I threw on some blue loctite. Any trick to gettting the new seals in without bending them? I put a minir dent in the front one Matt | ||
| Bomber |
Matt -- I ALWAYS trash at least one during install -- hints: put em in the freezer for a bit -- overnight seems to work best for me sit on the ground/floor to get the best sightline on the bores into which the things fit -- otherwise (as in sitting on a stool/creeper), I've fouind it way to easy to trash the lil brillo pads I've gotten so I alwasy buy a couple of pairs when I get some -- I recently found my cache of seals (I've got three, now), and smiled at myself I'm sure the pros can get it done right the first time, but I've never been able to . . . just hamfisted, I guess | ||
| Mbsween |
One more dumb question, which way do they go in. I pulled the old ones before I noted. The reason I ask, is the seals fit very easy one way, and they don't fit the other (this was after a night in the freezer. Does the taper face in or out? Or more clearly does the tapered side go toward the cylinder head, or does the flat side go that way? It would seem that the flat side should fit against the head, but of course I can't get it in that way without mangling it. | ||
| Blake |
Taper faces out.  | ||
| Blake |
I still use the old style (now available as "James" brand). Less chance of blocking the port and they have always worked fine for me as long as the header is kept well supported and the exhaust stud nuts kept tightened. I have noticed that after initial install/torquing, the header nuts should be checked. Seems that with a few heat cycles and the vibration of normal engine running the seals compress further and cause the nuts to loose some of their preloading. Brian Nallin recommended to me that if I was interested in optimum performance that the new style tapered seals are much more likely to occlude the exhaust port, which can significantly degrade performance can. So I use the old style plain donut seals by "James." I'd estimate that they have about 1/4th the material volume compared to the new style. I don't doubt though that in cases of problematic/loose/vibrating exhaust systems that the new ultra porky tapered style seals provide an added protection against exhaust leaks there at the seals. | ||
| Mbsween |
Blake, Thanks for the info Are the James branded seals any easier to get in place? I'm going to remove the header and make sure everything is clean in the head. I can't believe its that hard to get the seals in place | ||
| Blake |
Gosh, I never had too much trouble the three or four times I've replaced them. I did use the new style taper versions once too. It's not a big deal to have them distort as you are cramming them into the head, just use the smooth cylindrical end of a socket extension to push/prod/poke them back into shape once they are seated against the mating face on the cylinder head. The trick for the overstuffed tapered ones may be to angle the seal in a bit then slowly work-in the half still sticking outside the head. In other words, start by inserting the seal initially a bit crooked. Ever have to insert pages into those clear loose-leaf binder sleeves? Same principle, one corner goes in first, then cram the rest in after. | ||
| Blake |
Yes, the James brand old-style seals are much less resistant to being crammed into the head. They are miniscule by comparison to the newer, deeper, flared ones. |
