| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
AAron: I used an old rear disk brake self adjusting screw return tool from Pep Kids mounted on an air impact driver. Shot the "bolt" out of there in a hurry. It is a cylindrical object 1.5 in diameter and .5 in thick with two 3/16 dimater pins on the periphery and a 3/8 indrive square in the center. You must have struggles with a screwdriver. jose PS The manual calls these "buttons" axle bolts. I wonder how they are called once the axle was eliminated? | ||
| Grndskpr |
I have one question concerning fork oil, what has been the norm for a 98 buell with the wp forks, are there preferences in weight synth vs dino?? any help would be appreciated, and just because its an s3t dosent mean it just tours thanks ROger | ||
| Andys |
Roger, WPs use 5wt oil and the level is 4.3" from the top, forks compressed without springs. I tend to use synthetic fork oil for the same reasons I use it in my motors; it does breakdown nearly as soon. If you weigh over 200lbs then you need to re-spring and re-valve to get the best results. I used 15wt oil in my forks (before I revalved) to try and get the rebound circuit to do something and was unsuccessful. Revalving is the ONLY way, sorry. I hear that Traxxion Dynamics does nice work on Buell stuff and they sell Penske's that are setup properly. Their website is www.traxxion.com And just to make you fell better, S3's kick ass on the track too, as long as you can keep the pegs off the ground. | ||
| Rick_A |
I put billet isolator bushings in my bike. I like 'em a lot. Feels a bit more solid...and lively as you can really feel the engine beneath you. I don't know if my existing isolators were that shot...but my S1 used to be a bit twitchy pitching it hard into turns...and now it feels rock solid. It took a while to put 'em in, as my isolators were starting to droop a bit...so I had to use clamps between the engine/swingarm and frame to line things up properly. I feel some vibes in my butt and feet now...and the bike tries to walk away if left idling...but I can deal with that. Through the bars it simply feels like a higher frequency vibration that's not at all intrusive. If anything they're definitely confidence inspiring. | ||
| Blake |
Rick, When you say "droop", are you sure you are not seeing the built in skew of the isolators? New isolators look droopy right out of the box. If your aluminum ones weren't, you may have put a bunch of stress into your front isolator getting the aluminum ones to fit. Got a pic of the aluminum ones? | ||
| Rick_A |
Well, here's what I've got:   This is the position the bolts were in when I first purchased the bike. After leaving it on a centerstand for much of the winter the isolators contorted to where the washer was digging into the side and the bolt was rubbing. It was progressively getting worse as I rode it. The motor/swingarm had moved about 1/8" back and 1/4" down...which was easily seen by the fact that the tiebar links were no longer square in relation to their mounting bolts. It's all fixed now. | ||
| Vr1203 |
Jose, I have the same WP spock, (two cheesy welds on the steel front eye). I bought a used WP progressive wound exposed spring shock with # 30 150 215 on the spring. Does anyone know what this shock is for? This should address the poor weld ,recall issue right?  | ||
| Andys |
VR, Looks like you have an S3 shock. The only reason I say that is because the spring has both closely wound coils and open wound coils. Usually this is the sign that the spring is of a dual rate and as far as I know only the S3 uses a dual rate spring. | ||
| Jmartz |
That is an S2 shock. The identifying feature is the aluminum end plates. All later models had cheap plated pieces. | ||
| Hoser |
Jose & VR Further evidence of it's origin - this is the rebuildable style fitted to S2's, the front eye is aluminum and is threaded to the body , no welded eye on those. Jeff | ||
| Jmartz |
Hoser: A very similar 1 was fitted to 1998 S1's except it has stamped steel spring ends. | ||
| Vr1203 |
Thanks for the info but...Is it a better setup?(looks like it to me)Will it work? What is the spring rate? Too high for my turbo bike S1? Not much weight and no passenger on the VR.I like the idea of progressive wound springs. | ||
| Henrik |
Vr1203: please be careful using that shock. 1) back when the shock recall was at it's peak, it was mentioned that the factory during testing managed to break *all* kinds of shocks - including old style WP and aftermarket shocks. 2) according to Traxxion Dynamics, the WP shocks don't only break through the shock eye. The shock shaft has been known to snap as well. The only give-away is if your shock starts to seep a tiny bit of oil onto the shaft. That indicates that a crack is developing and the seal is being worn by the sharp edges. From there, disaster is just a short ride away. Henrik (I'm running a Penske on my S2 - heavier flywheel and careful inspection) | ||
| Jrh |
For a while now ive been curious about the after-market rear shocks available for the tube frame Buells.I recall a suggestion in B2Win that the latest version of the rear isolators had a tab that the writer thought might be there to stop the swingarm+tire from hitting the frame+locking the rear wheel in the event of a shock breaking. Any truth to this idea?The main reason im making this post though is because about only a year ago,while in a dealers service room i saw an S1W hanging from a lift,like the service bulletins show to do(in archives)but its rear end was lifted at about a 45 degree angle from the floor.It hung like this for at least a week and now im wondering about stressing(cracking)the front engine aluminum mount or its 2 bolts.Hope-fully im just being paranoid.If not,maybe you guys that had a dealer replace your swingarm or rear isolators might want to take a close look at your front aluminum isolator engine mount now+then for cracks.Someone Please tell me im just letting my overactive imagination get away from me.  | ||
| Aaron |
You guys are aware, aren't you, that I have this slightly used shock available for sale?  American Made Suspension, this is the shock you see on a lot of race bikes. As you can see the forward spring perch causes a slight rub mark on the shock body. That's all that's wrong with it, and that's purely cosmetic. | ||
| Court |
As one who has actually broken a shock at speed (I-35, Perry, OK) and photogrpahed the entire event I can assure you that the rear tire does not lock up. It get's very hot, as in molten rubber. From 85 MPH it leaves a very looooooooooooooooong skid mark and is captured by the rear inner fender I kept waiting for the shower of oil). The greatest risk is when you get the think stopped you must recall that your sidestand will no longer work now that your Buell has 2.5" ground clearance. The only damage I did to a prototype S-3 was a small chip of green paint off the tank. | ||
| Jrh |
Court Thanks,i think. Glad you were OK through that one though. Im probably better off not knowing anything about my imaginary? front of engine dropping down tests you've been involved in  John | ||
| Jmartz |
AAron: I'm interested. jose | ||
| Vr1203 |
Anyone know what the spring numbers-30 150 215- mean? | ||
| Andys |
Okay boys and girls, I need your help. I need to find someone who can replate my front fork tubes. After polishing the tubes with 1500 grit paper the leak I had is still as plentiful as it was before I tore them apart. This just pisses me off (both literally and figurativally) to no end. All that energy wasted trying to remove the high spots and the damn thing still leaks like a water faucet!! Valving and springing are perfect, I just need to find someone (locally would be nice) who can "square" these tube up for me. I guess no riding for the forseeable future, huh? Thanks for the help. | ||
| Jmartz |
Andys: I don't recommend that course of action. Repairs are for people restoring antiquities. Get new tubes from Buell or WP or Showa you will be a lot happier, trust me on this one. I have been playing with motorcycles for a very long time and almost always I have had to add cost the repair that I have been forced to discard to the replacement that I shold have done in the 1st place. | ||
| Andys |
Buy new tubes? Buell only sells complete assemblies. And I just got all the valving and springing setup perfectly. Please tell me otherwise. | ||
| Johnc |
Andys, try this link for fork tubes for just about any motorcycle ever made. I have bought tubes from them in the past for my Norton with good success. Good luck! http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/ | ||
| Andys |
After spending hours polishing the tubes again they seemed to have sealed themselves. How, I have no idea. When I reinstalled the tubes with a second seal and bounced the bike up and down oil came out. So I rode the bike anyway. I tie wrapped a piece of toweling around the tube to catch any oil and took off. After about two miles the leak stopped. No idea why. The left tube did no such thing. Oh well. I do want to thank all of you for your ideas and help in the matter. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
The preload adjustment lock nut on Reindog's S3 recall shock came off on the Cali ride, and vibrated on the shock for god knows how many miles. As it danced around down there, it buggered up the threads on the nut. Buell doesn't sell just the nut separately. But with all the leakers out there, maybe there is a used nut laying around. Has anyone recently had their leaker NEW style shock replaced at a dealer? If yes, can you ask them if you can trade a buggered lock nut for a good one? My only other choice would be to buy a new shock or re-cut the existing threads. Good luck finding a tap THAT size!! The SHOCK would be cheaper! Al | ||
| Blake |
Al, you should be able to find that nut at a fastener supply house. It is probably classified as a "jam" nut. | ||
| Necteau |
Hey Guys I just bought a new 2002 X1W and I decided to adjust some of my dampening adjustments and I measured my preload adjustment and with me sitting on it it is about 20"! My manual says 15.2-15.5. I am sure I am measuring from the correct shock eyes. I asked my shop and they said it should be fine as long as the ride seems fine. I should adjust this right back to about 15"? I have noticed that my bike takes bumps pretty hard. I also ride with my girlfriend a lot so I figured this was pretty important. Thanks for your help | ||
| Tims |
Hi Have any of you guys fitted the alloy swingarm to a 97-98 frame??? Any problems encountered or will it slip straight in? Will the 97-98 shock be ok to use, or is there different lengths involved? Thanks Tim | ||
| Tims |
And on the subject of re-chroming fork legs, I re-chomed a set of 89gsxr forks and had no problems at all, and know of many others who have done the same with similar results. The 89gsxr forks will also fit the Buell(97-98) with minor mods to the speedo drive and spacers, plus being a longer tube you can drop them through the top support and run clipons off the tubes. The main reason why I did it anyway. | ||
| Blake |
Necteau, You need to set your sag/preload according to the manual. Twenty inches is WAY off! Question: How did you measure the sag while sitting on the bike? Tims, The new swingarm will fit. You will need a new rear axle spacer or something like that if I recall correctly. I'm not sure about the shock either. Someone? (Some help I am eh)  |
