| Author | Message | ||
     Sandstorm |
Richie......I just went through what your going through now. When I rolled into the throttle from idle, it sputtered and bogged....then jumped to high RPM, but I'm using the CV carb. I changed the manifold gaskets and the rubber seal behind the carb....cheap fix!!! Then I tweeked in the carb. What the problem was is that I was getting an air leak through the manifold gasket. Try the gaskets B4 you tweek in that carb  | ||
| Gcpoland |
I am still willing to bet you have an air leak somewhere. The HSR 42 fits the manifold a little tigher than the CV, and I have seen a lot of people put small tears in the rubber. Pulling and pushing on the carb, when installing and removing carb can also disturb the seals against the heads. Check the vacum hose to the VOES switch and make sure it is on the carb and tight on the switch. Warm the motor up, get your spray bottle out and double check for vacum leaks. You are making sure the motor is completely warmed up before trying to tune or rev it up. If the motor is not at temp it will be inconsistent and any tuning will change as the motor warms. Most of the time I find things that act like this, just to be something that was overlooked in the frustration of the moment. A simple tear in the rubber seal will cause all these problems. It is easy to miss. Let us know how you make out. Gary | ||
| Richieg150 |
Gary,decided to tune my mikuni by the manual.Seems to be ok now.What I ended up with was a 20 primary jet,my airscrew 1 3/4 turns out,my 97 needle in the middle groove,and a 155 main jet.I also replaced the hose on my VOES switch,it seemed to me to be kinda loose.I will try to get to a dyno in a week or so to check it all out.Thanks for the help Buelligians!!  | ||
| Davefl |
So there I was installing my new HSR42 Mukini carb. I installed the throttle cables and found that they cannot be adjusted correctly. I believe that I saw somewhere that someone else had the same problem so I did a search and came up dry. If anyone knows of a solution to my problem I would be grateful.. | ||
| Rapid49 |
Davefl, I was able to adjust mine but I used almost all of the adjustment available.It apears that the cables are a little long. When I have time I am going to try to fix this. I'm not sure how yet but it shouldn't be too difficult. I too would be grateful for any input. Evan | ||
| Rapid49 |
I have my stock cv on e-bay if anybody needs one. Evan | ||
| Gcpoland |
Richieg150 Glad to hear everything worked out well. | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Dave and Evan, I ran into the same issue. My fix was to make a longer Ferrule for the cable end to make it fit, I had the luxury of a friend with a lathe but looking at it you could make the same from plastic or thin wall tubing sleeve. I've read others here doing similar. Just be very careful to keep clear cable movements to avoid a stuck throtle.  | ||
| Davefl |
I am not past forcing this thing to work but when I bought to carb it was the easy kit for Buells. Looked at the paperwork that came with the kit, no phone# just a web site. I went to the web site and could not find a feedback or contact us section. On my bike I will have to make ferrules because my adjustment is all the way out and i still have loose cables. | ||
| Aaron |
I bent the bracket a little. | ||
| Ralph |
I bent the bracket more than a little bighairyralph | ||
| Gcpoland |
Mikuni's answer is that the Buell cable is built differant than the Sporster and thru manufacturing tolerance maybe a bit longer. "Carefully bend the bracket, being sure to maintain proper freeplay while insuring that the throttle slide clears the top of the bore at WOT." At one time I used spacers on the cable, then washers behind the bracket, and finally the best solution, bend the bracket. Sometimes I am a little slow to follow advice. Gary | ||
| Davefl |
I bent my bracket. Carb is on the bike and by tomorrow I will have the breather worked out and on the bike also. Thanks everyone for the help.. Dave. | ||
| Seeeu911 |
good luck Dave, perhaps you will be riding your Buell to the leesburg bike show this weekend ? http://leesburgbikefest.com/ | ||
| Shotgun |
Air/fuel guage question. I welded a bung in my rear header so I could mount my Nordskag heated O2 sensor and my Nordskag A/F guage temporarily so as to get some jetting ideas for my 2001 M2. I originally tried just stuffing the sensor up the tailpipe (clamped on), but even with the heated sensor, the thing wouldn't stay hot enough to read. Well, now it reads alright, but I'm confused. At idle it is reading 0.92- 0.90. At 70 MPH in 5th gear (about 3300 rpm) it reads around 0.86 - 0.87. Do I need to subtract these values from 1.0 to come up with a normal reading? If so, the cruise A/F ratio looks pretty good, just a little on the rich side, but the idle then would seem to be waaay rich. Currently running stock exhaust, Hypercharger, 45 slow and 195 fast jet. Whaddya'all think? | ||
| Chuck |
Shotgun . . . just for fun, why not disable the butterflies of the hypercharger so that they stay full open, to see if that makes a difference at idle. | ||
| Gcpoland |
.4 - 15.0:1 .5 - 14.7:1 .6 - 14.6:1 .7 - 14.5:1 .8 - 14.2:1 .88 - 13.5:1 .90 - 13.2:1 1.0 - 12.5:1 These aren't cast in concrete. These are average for most plain sensors. Remember, for your application, the sensor set up, is not that accurate and is also hampered by lag time, depending on mounting and calibration. For an extremely good explanation of A/F meters and sensors, try this site; {http://www.geocities.com/francillion/index.html,http://www.geocities.com/francillion/index.html} Personally, I still prefer an EGT gage and thin wire thermocouples. | ||
| Gcpoland |
I think this one works. Sorry. http://www.geocities.com/francillion/index.html If not, cut and paste. http://www.geocities.com/francillion/index.html | ||
| Shotgun |
Thanks GCPOLAND, that's just what I needed. I'll do some more riding with the guage on and get a better idea but it looks a little rich on idle for starters. Might just be the idle mixture, if not, I'll pop the 42 pilot back in for giggles and see what it says. The readings are really a lot more stable than I expected for a $100 system. Not gonna do a lotta changes until my new D&D muffler arrives from Sportwin. | ||
| Gilles |
 Textwho can give original BUELL parts number for oxygene sensor on BUELL XB9R ?????? Best regard Gilles. | ||
| Fresh |
Hi all, I need some practical advice: For my 1998 S1 with force winder and rino exhaust i like to get a kit for the stock CV carb. I read that many options are available, some HD parts or a thunderslide kit etc. Bearing in mind i am gonna change my lightning cylinder heads to thunderstorm type with possible porting job in a couple of months, what would be the best choice in kit and parts for my stock cv carb for now. Or should i go for a diff carb ? Regards, Fresh | ||
| Mikej |
Fresh, Just buy a few jets all by themselves. Then use the money you save to buy lunch for whoever you're with. Just being practical. MikeJ | ||
| Blake |
I agree, proper jetting and idle mixture adjustment is the best approach. | ||
| Buellzebub |
Fresh the yost kit is good master kit changes the emu tube and needle, racer kit includes the above, jets, a softer spring, 2 needles and a drill bit for enlarging the bleed hole in the diaphram it really helped on my s1's | ||
| Shotgun |
Fooling around some more checking out my air/fuel guage on my 2001 M2. Bike is running about a 13.2 idle mix and a 13.5 at cruise. WOT will put it to about 12.9. After installation of the new D&D muffler, if it stays similar, I will go back to the 42 slow jet. The interesting thing is that the hyper-charger disengaged per Chuck's request above, made no difference on idle or frankly at any engine speed....until the bike got over 80-85 MPH. Then it started to scoop air. Still didn't go down below about 14.0. At high revs in lower gears, there was no effect from the wide open hypercharger. But in 4th or 5th above 85 or so, it was coming off rich and headed towards balance. Gotta find a place to run it faster to check if that air-ram effect continues. I have never gotten better than 45 MPG with the bike and usually it is around 40 MPG. | ||
| Blake |
Shotgun, Suggest you keep the 45 slow jet but adjust your mixture screw. | ||
| Fresh |
Thx all, for replies. I'll go for jets and slight mods of carb instead of full kit. Save some csh for other goodies. Fresh | ||
| Meat |
Idle problem...Slow return to idle from above 2000 RPM...Have read all posts from this web site and ATC web site...Problem will only show up after eng is very warm, The wamer it gets the more noticeable it gets...Have removed complet air box and tyed IAT sensor to Throttle Body inlet with tye rap...Have sprayed water on all joints at head,injectors,throttle body and intake manifold looking for vacuum leaks, Have found nothing...Have checked all sensor wireing...Bike runs good and idles good...When hot will start idleing a little faster and a little roughter, Idle will go up about 200 to 300 rpm...Bike starts fine...Has race ECM and Slip on muffler, They have been on bike for 5000 miles...Any help will be good here...I think that it is a sensor...But have no idea which one...I am thinking of taking to the dealer...I have service manual and under stand DDFI system...No eng check light has ever come on, only when starting, goes out and stays out.... will Ecm store a trouble code with out lighting check eng light...Bike has ran fine till this point...Do not want to start changing sensors thinking this will cure problem...I also have a 2000 S3 and am think of swaping ET,IAT,O2 sensor...If I change TP sensor will have to have it Zeroed again if I swap it...Any help here or ideas...I know I have read of very similar problems but can not tell what they did to cure this problem... THANKS FOR YOUR HELP... Regards  ave | ||
| Blake |
Meat, Water is the least likely to cause a difference in idle for a minor intake leak. Try contact cleaner or WD-40 and be sure the engine is at a FAST idle, around 2000 rpm or so. | ||
| Meat |
Blake:Thanks for the help...I did what you said...And the idle would drop from 2000 rpm to around 1400 when I would spray WD40 around both front and rear flangers on the intake manifold..Changed the flang seals last night and rode it some...Was not able to get it real hot but I think it will be OK...Seals did not seem bad but were very hard...They were Gray seals and the replacement ones were Black...Will let you know if the problem comes back...It looks like it is going to rain here in IN. Today so don't think i will get any riding in...Thanks again for the help Regards,Dave |
