| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
DJ: I had 18K on my first Cyclone and had no slippage. Haven't put more than 15K on the other two Cylones yet, but they are fine. | ||
| Aaron |
My bride's S1 has 32K on it's original clutch and it works fine. It's making 95hp to boot. Something's wrong. Any possibility it wasn't adjusted correctly? Was the screw backed off 1/4 turn with slack in the cable? | ||
| Djkaplan |
I've been really meticulous about clutch adjustment, but I've also used (abused) it very roughly. Almost everytime I ride the bike, I'll powershift into second for the instant wheelie or just clutch it up while I'm in second for the wheelie. Your responses have intrigued me though. A general inspection of the components is in order. I'm wondering if the spring washer could be collapsing. The feel at the lever is consistent though. Quote from Aaron; "Was the screw backed off 1/4 turn with slack in the cable". Is this a test? The screw is supposed to be turned clockwise a 1/4 turn, um..., right? (lefty loosey, righty tighty - don't laugh) Boy am I gonna feel stupid... | ||
| Aaron |
Well, this is from memory, but yes, in this case I believe "backed off" means clockwise. It's obvious when you do it that you're backing off the adjustment, adding slack to it, whatever. Leaving it tight would be like riding the clutch. That step beforehand, of adding lots of slack to the cable with the cable adjuster, is real important too. Sounds like that wasn't the issue, I was just asking. I've had good luck with these clutches. I saw someone at Bonneville using a totally stock clutch behind 142hp and it held. Not that I would recommend such a thing. AW | ||
| Steveb |
Djkaplan, To quoteth from the good book: "Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until it lightly bottoms. Turn the clutch adjusting screw clockwise 1/4 turn . . . " In this case, righty tighty don't wash, as this is backwards to every other motorcycle I have owned. Hope your clutch comes to grips with the world with a little tweaking. SteveB | ||
| Djkaplan |
Steveb, Just making sure I understood Aaron. He seems to be the purveyor of all things Buell. Believe me; he's the last person I would argue with! Thanks for the quote. I've got the good book; it is indeed, a very Good Book. I'm going in tomorrow on a reconnaissance mission. I hope everything is in order. I wonder why the clutch cover is called a derby? It looks more like a yarmulke to me... Danny (comes to grips with the world; I got the pun!) | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Okay, I am intrigued...what is the benifit a Kawasaki Clutch lever on my bike? | ||
| Miked |
New 2001 M2. Clutch Pull is hard. I compared the the pull on my Buell to that of a new Sportster and mine is harder to pull. Is this normal? Anyway to make it less difficult? | ||
| Blake |
Mike: When is the last time you lubed your clutch cable? It makes a HUGE difference in effort required at the lever. Also, adjust your levers (clutch and brake) so that they fall inline with your forearm and the grip (a straight line projecting from your elbow through your wrist then handgrip should if continued also pass through your clutch/brake lever). The handlebar grips should almost hide the levers from your view as you sit on the bike in riding position. Having to roll your hand back in order to grasp the clutch or brake lever is ergonomically and physiologically no bueno. If that is all old news to you, please forgive me for blathering on so. Blake | ||
| Shotgun |
Mike, I once installed the clutch diaphram spring backwards on my Sportster and had the identical result. I attended an intermediate motorcycle safety school the next day and my left hand gave out. Ya spose sumbody at the factory coulda reversed urs? | ||
| Bcmike |
I can't seem to get a straight answer on this...Is the ring gear supposed to move? If I grab it, I can rock it back and forth as if its loose on the shaft. The clutch hub is tight and does not move. Just the ring gear' sprocket assembly. Doesn't seem right. The dealer tech says they all 'float' on XL's. Mike, 2001 Cyclone | ||
| Henrik |
So I'm diggin into the primary to change 2nd gear to the Y2K version, install a Baker smooth shift kit and Y2K detent plate, new style primary chain tensioner and generally check things out. I'd wanted to pull and measure the clutch plates, but can't figure out how to fit my diaphragm spring compressor onto the hub. It looks like the one pictured in the service manual, and I've used it when I still had my Lowrider, but the Sporty clutch seem to be different. The compressor pictured in the manual has outside threads (like mine), while the description in the manual says to thread the compressor onto the clutch adjusting screw, which would require internal threads on the compressor. What's the story? Henrik | ||
| Shooter |
 henrik,look in the box for the coupling adapter, one end threads on the compresser drive bolt, the other side threads on the clutch.This piece makes the compresser work on sportster and big twin motors. | ||
| Fresh |
I need Help guys, Opened up the primary today to exchange tensioner and retend plate for shifter. I did not have the right tool to loose the clutch basket, will buy nxt week and continue. I noticed the following disturbing thing: I can wiggle the clutch shell quite a bit, i use both hands to grab the gear were the starter motor engages into, and rock it for about 0.5 mm or more. (difficult to tell, no good reference point) This caused some wear on the shifter shaft assy. Hope you can see the trace caused by gear touching assy. Any idea if this is ok, the clutch basket itself has no play for as far as i can tell. The nut seems tight but i will know for sure nxt week when i loosen it. See photo  Also i think the primary chain looks very loose, see picture. I checked it out but the chain is very snug on the gears. Does this hanging look normal to you guys at first sight. The bike is an 1998 S1 with 11.000 km  Thx. in advance, Worried Fresh  | ||
| Shooter |
fresh, the tensioner will tighten up the chain when You put the cover back on. | ||
| Bcmike |
I asked the same question on Mar 3. Same concern about the ring gear. Its the play between the clutch plates you feel. I'll quite Erics post to me he made just last night for your info: (thanks Eric!) >>>>>>I pulled my primary last night. The ring gear and outer clutch basket as a unit will wiggle. The clutch basket is held on, obviously, by a bolt through the center(actually a shaft with a nut). The center then can't move with respect to the shaft. The outer basket and attached ring gear, however, are connected to the shaft by the clutch plates so there is some movement in the outer shell, allowed by the clutch spring. The ring gear itself, being the bit at the back that the starter operates on, shouldn't move independently of the basket(to which the teeth that the primary chain operates on are integral to.) Summary: ring gear, primary "teeth", and outer basket will move together relative to the shaft and clutch plates, but shouldn't move relative to each other, although mine once did and needed fixing. >>>>>>>> Good news. Its not a concern as long as you cant 'rotate' the ring gear independently. Mike, 01 M2 | ||
| Henrik |
Shooter: I got this compressor some 8 years ago, so even if it did come with an adaptor, it's gone now  Thanks though, maybe I can find an adaptor somewhere. Fresh: My primary looks just the same, and the clutch basket moves a bit when pulled. Ring gear and clutch basket however does not move in relation to each other:  Henrik | ||
| Fresh |
BCMIke/Henrik, Thx guys, Makes sense, Henrik, do you see some small damage to the shifter shaft assy were it has touched slightly with the gear. Mine show marks but i cannot see it on your picture. Anyway, feel a lot better now. Regards, Fresh | ||
| Henrik |
Fresh: the shift shaft assembly is a tiny bit more shiny where it's close to the ring gear, and there are a few streaks/wear marks. Nothing deep or worrysome. Henrik | ||
| Fresh |
Henrik, The fact that the primary drive part on the outer basket can move a bit cause misalignment of this part with the engine sprocket. Every time the gear is driven by the prim chain you force it out of the centerline of the shaft of the gearbox. When it is rotating it continuously adjusts itself with rotation so there must be a lot of friction and maybe even some vibration. Does the amount of play direct relate to clutch plate wear ? Like more input in order to understand the mechanical implication of this play. The drawings in the manual are not detailed enough for me to study, but i will pull the thing off to find out if this play can be reduced. Fresh | ||
| Henrik |
Not sure what to tell you Fresh. I haven't run into or heard of clutch wear problems with stock or slightly hopped up motors. I'll ask around for expert answers to the "how much motion is aceptable" question. Henrik | ||
| Fresh |
Henrik, I am sure it will be ok, plenty people driving around with the same i believe. Just like to understand the mechanics behind the play. Still had no time to pull the clutch, plan to do it friday. Fresh | ||
| Xtopherj |
has anyone had any problems with leaking from where the clutch cable enters the case? i've had a leak there since i've had the bike (2 weeks). i supsected the cable may not have been screwed in tight enough so i carefully, and i can not stress enough how carefully, tried to tighten the fitting. after just the slightest movement of the fitting the whole thing spun like the nut sheared off. now i have a gusher instead of a dripper. have i screwed up big-time and stripped the case or broken the cable fitting or is there something simple i'm missing. i'm at work right now so i can't get my hands on it to open up the derby cover and take a gander inside. any assistance would be greatly appreciated. c.j.  | ||
| Blake |
CJ: You may have a broken O-ring, or the threads may be stripped in the primary cover. You will have to remove the clutch cover to inspect the situation and be sure. I hope it's something simple. If the threads are stripped, the good news is that some JB weld or a helicoil will probably fix you up near as new. | ||
| Xtopherj |
thanks blake. i have an appointment with the local H-D extortionists tomorrow to see all is wrong with the bike but i'll take a look before i turn it over to them. a buddy of mine has an extra primary cover from when he installed the chrome one. he said i could have it so worst case scenario is i have to buy the gasket and replace the cover or possibly the clutch cable. i'll let you know. c.j. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
CJ, Sounds like the case threads stripped. Bummer. Is it a new bike? If so, it may be covered by the warranty. You might not want to mention you put a wrench on it though.....but it sounds like it was gone before you tried to tighten it. Replacing the primary cover is no big deal. If it has the old primary tensioner it's a great time to put in the new one. BTW, Great color! Despite whar Rocket says, Blue IS a proper color for a Buell!! Brad | ||
| Xtopherj |
Bluzm2 and Blake thanks to both of you for your guidance and suggestions. i had "babe" looked at today at the dealer to see what items would be covered under a goodwill warranty. the bad news - none of it. the good news - not a stripped case but a sheared cable end fitting and a bad speed sensor to be replaced by the updated part. $180 out the door. i'll pick her up tomorrow and see how the boys at eastside did. since i still don't have the service manual (i've got one on order) i decided to let the dealership handle this one. thanks again, fellas c.j. | ||
| Spike |
Hey guys, I was planning on upgrading to the new detent plate and had a couple questions: Is it mandatory to disassemble the clutch pack to remove it? More specifically, do I need the clutch spring compressor tool to remove the clutch assembly? What size is the mainshaft nut? How critical is it to get the right amount of torque on the main shaft? (do I need a torque wrench?) What other special tools do I need to get the job done? Thanks in advance Spike '99 Cyclone | ||
| Aaron |
"Is it mandatory to disassemble the clutch pack to remove it?" Neither mandatory nor desireable. "More specifically, do I need the clutch spring compressor tool to remove the clutch assembly?" No. "What size is the mainshaft nut?" It needs a 1-3/16" socket, and it's left hand thread. "How critical is it to get the right amount of torque on the main shaft? (do I need a torque wrench?)" A torque wrench is a good tool to have. Get one that'll click in either direction, for these left hand threads like this one. "What other special tools do I need to get the job done?" You'll more than likely need an air impact wrench to get that sprocket shaft nut off. It's right hand thread. Torquing it is problematic. Get some Loctite red, too (262 or 272). A primary locking tool is nice. I use the shoe from one of those p.o.s. M6 thingies, finally found a good use for one. Make sure that the shifter pawl prevents over-rotation of the drum on the shift to 3rd. My S1, with the new plate, did not, and any hard shift to 3rd would land at 3rd and a half. I had to take the plate out. But the new plate works fine in my M2 and S2. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Also, if you are trying to improve the character of the shifting, having the new shift kit and modifying it (if necessary) so that the shifter arm sticking out of the primary case is parallel to the ground will make a HUGE difference in how it shifts. This gives you the most leverage on each shift, and I finally stopped missing those 1-2 shifts under hard acceleration. All it takes is some 10/32 threaded rod, a 10/32 internal diameter coupling nut, and a fine toothed hack saw (to adjust the length of the threaded rod). If you also get a couple of normal 10/32 nuts, you can have them on the rod when you saw it to length, then thread them off the cut end, which is an easy way to clean the threads back up. Our local Home Depot did not have the coupling nuts, nor did the local Lowes, or the local Hader Hardware. I asked a buddy of mine (mechanical engineer) to fabricate one up, he came back with one he found right away at a little mom and pop hardware store  Other helpfull souls here recommended to me to put the arm at between 2:30 and 3:00 oclock, I had the best luck right at 3:00. |
