| Author | Message | ||
     Loki |
Ara, That stuff is true clampless hose. designed specicically to be used with barbed style AN(socketless) series connectors. So any barbed connection ought to work with it. Aeroquip has more info on it. | ||
| Ara |
Sandstorm, I must be having a bald moment or something. I've visited the Grainger web site, I'll be dogonne if I can find that blue hose.  Do you have a part number or can you navigate me to the right part? Thanks, Loki. Russ | ||
| Sandstorm |
Ara.....Sure I can you. When I get to work today I'll check out the part # in the main book and post the part # later. I also had a hard time finding the hose on-line. So I called them directly and ordered from the book. | ||
| Ara |
Thanks, Sandstorm. I appreciate the help. I wish all web sites were as easy to use as this one. | ||
| Blake |
We used to fight for the Grainger and McMaster Carr books! The catalogs with near everything a man could ever want (hardware wise at least  ). And yes, you would often see a young engineer with the Grainger catalog tucked stealthily under his arm, heading to the can.  | ||
| S2pido |
EEEEEWWWWWWWWWWW! Is THAT why the pages were all stuck together?  | ||
| Fresh |
Aaaah, i remember the good times i had with Grainger and McMaster Carr catalogs. I was always jealous about the Americans, they could get all the goodies from those nice catalogs and build wonderfull things. Here in Holland you have to dig around for parts and go through shitloads of catalogs before you find what you can use.  Fresh | ||
| Sandstorm |
I got the info you guys need . Ok....my bad on the catalog!!! I thought it was the Grainger catalog, but it wasn't It is the McMaster-Carr catalog. The website is www.mcmaster.com. The hose comes in four different colors. Blue, green, Red, and yellow. The part # for the blue hose is, 54075k44, @ $.51 a foot. I.D.=3/8. O.D.=5/8 While your @ it, you might want to look into a polypropylene single barb "T" fitting for the hose. Use the single barb because it has a much tighter fit. The part # on the T-fitting: 5116k37. Good luck and ROLL-ON | ||
| Ara |
THANK YOU SANDSTORM! | ||
| Sandstorm |
Russ...No prob You gonna hook us up with some pics after your done? Aren't you adding a catch can?? | ||
| Ara |
I'm still debating. I have a one-of-a-kind system right now, and it works quite well. It's described in the archives along with photos, but basically I bought another L-shaped breather fitting to replace the straight one that's on the front jug and I converted both L-fittings into T-fittings. I aligned the arms of the Ts vertically and from the top arms I ran individual hoses back to a double-barb breather filter under the rear bodywork. From the bottom arms of the T-fittings I ran six inches of clear polyethylene hose with screw drains on the ends. The gasses go up through the hoses to the filter and the liquids go down and are captured in the clear hoses (which serve as long, skinny see-through catch cans). It works quite well, but I run the original breadbox air intake and so one of my clear hoses is inside the breadbox. They don't require draining very frequently, but when they do I have to remove the airbox cover to drain the tube from the front cylinder. I just can't seem to force myself to drill another hole in the airbox so that the tube can exit. Your setup is pretty interesting, Sandstorm, hence my curiosity. I wanted to ask you if you can see through those blue hoses or if they are opaque, and whether the hose material is stiffer or more flexible than standard 3/8 hose. Gonna be rainy here in the Deepest Darkest South, so no riding this weekend. I'm due to pick up my new Sidi boots in an adjacent town, but it's going to be so wet that I'll have to drive. Nuts. Russ | ||
| Sybren |
 Cheap! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Neil, (Lsr_bbs) or anyone else who has used Blast rocker covers. I've got Blast covers on order for my M2, other than the slight clearance problem on the left front, is there anything else I need to know? Did you pull the umbrella valves? What did you use to plug the standard breather fitting holes? Do you have any pics? I was unable to find any other than your post from Nov re the clearance filing. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks Brad | ||
| Sportyeric |
After years of running with the breather lines teed into one, I ran separate lines this year out of respect for the 60k miles on my cylinders and pistons. After years of putting up with an oil leak at the base gasket (copper, for squish adjustment),the weeping gasket seems to have fixed itself. I'm hoping the two are related. Obviously, a paper base gasket will not self-repair. The copper one might. If the difference is in the teeing of the lines, or lack there-of, that may be a consideration for others. | ||
| Ara |
Sportyeric: I've argued in support of separate breather lines several times here, but I never dreamed it might have a bearing on the base gaskets. Holy cow! Russ | ||
| José_Quiñones |
interesting! | ||
| Chuck |
hmmmmmm | ||
| Sportyeric |
Well. I knew the copper base gasket would leak but thought the squish adjustment made it worthwhile. Having the Ninja set commenting on the bead of oil that would flow out when I parked, I have been intending to go back to something more leak proof. I've given the bike two good 150 mile flailings this week and the oil isn't leaking for the first time in 40,000 miles. All else relevant is the same. Ara, it was probably your arguments that convinced me to do so. I was also wondering if the rocker gaskets might be failing for a similar reason. I thought there was an argument made here to that effect, though I probably just was misunderstanding. Vibration there makes sense. Still. (I put paper replacements in about a week before the better ones came out.) It certainly makes sense that if the blowby can't get out as fast as its produced it will try to force a new opening and there isn't much meat on that base surface. I'd take a base gasket leak over a crank seal anyday, but better neither, if that's the cause. | ||
| Sem1 |
Sportyeric: To support your theory, here is what has happened to me. My S1W pretty much stopped puking for the first time ever just two weeks ago. However, almost simultaneously, it started dripping motor oil from the clutch cable hole in the primary case -- most likely due to a sprocket shaft seal leak. I guess I got "lucky" in which way the excess blowby decided to get out.  In addition to large quantities of puke, I have previously witnessed both rocker box gaskets blow, which also seems to indicate a problem with my cylinders and pistons. Cheers, Semi | ||
| Ara |
Semi, others more knowledgable than myself may know better, but I don't understand what the breather system might have to do with your leaking clutch cable. I don't think that there is a way for one to influence the other. Sportyeric, your thinking on the matter is much similar to mine. Essentially, that backpressure in the breathers is to be avoided. I'm enthused that the analysis lead to a positive and practical outcome. Good on you! Russ | ||
| Sem1 |
Russ, the way I figure is that I have lots of blowby due to poor piston ring seating, or some other problem inside the cylinders. The blowby increases crankcase pressure. Once the crankcase pressure is high enough, it is too much for the breathing system to handle, and other components are also subjected to it. Now that my sprocket shaft seal has started leaking, the pressure is pushing motor oil from the crankcase to the primary side, from where it leaks out through the clutch cable hole. Mind you, I am only theorizing, but it is curious that the puking is gone, and the clutch cable is leaking oil (and lots of it). Maybe the puking is gone because the motor oil level is finally low enough, I don't know, but I have tried not to overfill. So, the connetion between the breather system and the leaking clutch cable is that if the breather system got rid of all crankcase pressure, there would be no reason for the motor oil to push through the sprocket shaft seal into the primary case. Disclaimer: I am still wet behind the ears when it comes to motors. Cheers, Semi  | ||
| Ara |
Semi, OK, I get it. I didn't understand that your sprocket shaft seal had given way. Let me ask you, are you running the stock breather system or have you made some modifications? Russ | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Breathers are a pain ! Recently I rerouted my breathers after my catch can broke. Before it broke, some oil in the catch can, not much not a little somewhere in-beween, no base gasket weeping. I rerouted the hoses up to under the tail section and within a few rides: seeping at base gasket, oil in the gearcase. WTF ?!@#$%^&&**()  I rerouted the hoses so there is no loop or uphill area for oil to perhaps pool in and cause pressure to build up ? Insted of breather filers I am using air/Oil separators..no drip, no blowby aparent on the bike now. I thought the crank seal was totaly failed. I've drained and refiled the crank case. After checking from every ride, the gear case apears to be sealed from the crankcase....hmmm. No base gasket weeping..hmmm. My 98 s1w with 18k miles and 98 rwhp runs like a bat out of hell. | ||
| Sem1 |
Russ, yes, I have modified the breathing system. I have the breather lines connect to a T right below the Sidewinder air cleaner. From the T I run a single hose to a catch can that has been mounted on the right side of the motor right in front of the brake pedal. I have changed the breather line routing quite often (and even experimented with a hose running from the timing inspection hole to another T in the single hose that runs to the catch can) recently in a vain attempt to get rid of puking. It is difficult to tell if some of the setups resulted in more crank case pressure than others, but all of them had puke mist spraying from the catch can filter. The next setup that I will try is two separate hoses just like Sportyeric describes above. Cheers, Semi | ||
| Sportyeric |
Semi. The tranny has a breather also so I doubt that the crank pressure could blow out the clutch cable gasket. Maybe though. I really liked the H-shaped set-up, with a double-inputted filter, that was posted here earlier but I don't have the room you guys do to hide all this stuff. I just went straight down in front of the pulley with two hoses. Leaves a puddle of puke the size of a toonie under the bike every night. When the old lady notices, I'll have to start putting something under it. | ||
| Sem1 |
Sportyeric, Thanks. I also doubt that the crank pressure could get that high on the primary side (which is exactly why the motor oil wants to push through the sprocket shaft seal). So, I guess I also have a bad clutch cable O-ring. A couple of questions: Where is the tranny breather located? I tried to look for it, but could not find it, and my manuals have not arrived in Finland yet. What is a "toonie"? Just trying to visualize how much oil your bike drips. Cheers, Semi | ||
| Ara |
Semi, I'm on my third breather design if you count the factory version. What I have now is pretty unique - I made the breather fittings into T's with the top of the T oriented vertically, clear catch hoses with drain fittings run from the lower arm of each T, and rubber hoses run from the upper arm of each T to a twin-nipple breather filter under the rear bodywork. The idea is for the gases to go up and the liquids to go down, and after several thousand miles it seems to work quite well. I am a bit concerned about the length of the hose run from the breather fittings to the filter, however. I'd do the H-shaped arrangement that Sportyeric mentioned in order to shorten the hose runs and thereby reduce total inside-the-hose friction with the gases, but I don't have the space to hang the filter under the stock airbox that I continue to run. I've considered a Jazz two-nipple catch can, but the 16oz size of the thing makes it difficult to mount. If they made an 8oz version, I'd buy it. Russ | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Brad (sorry, yes I did miss this), This is all for my X1 so don't know how relevent it will be for your M2... The front took 3 minutes with a rat tail file to clearance for the front mount. No big deal. I left the umbrella valves in. Got a bolt from the hardware store (IIRC it's 1/2" - though it looks like a pipe thread it's not, look in the big bolt section of your hardware store. I used 1" bolt w/ a thick washer as 3/4" wasn't available). Rear....well, it's still not on yet. I got sloppy drilling the second hole and buggered the cover. When I told danny to send me another one, he was out. When the new one came in he noticed they now say cover, front. So...the XB cover should be hitting parts availability soon...when they do, he's going to send me one. There is going to be an issue w/ tank clearance on my X1 (I think). Just playing around with everything, the breather looks awfully close to the tank...but I'm sure I can find a slimmer PCV valve at the auto parts store. Not that I give a shit, but the finish probably won't match the rest of your top end. I figure I'll fix that one day. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Thanks Neil, What hole were you drilling on the cover? I thought you just bolted the buggers on. No big deal if drilling is needed but I thought all the holes were already there. Thanks for the additional info. Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
Here is a poor mans breather setup. I threw it together on a whim, and it has worked so well I have not fussed much with it. The top filter will saturate after about 500 to 1000 miles (depending on how much I overfilled the oil) and needs to be pulled off and washed out with soap and water to keep from soiling your right knee. It pops right off and cleans up easily, and the bottom loop does a good job of catching the drool, and I just pop off the visable end of the bottom loop and leave it hanging down over a paper towel on the garage floor over night when I want to drain it (not often). The parts are all from my local Napa. Two brass tees and stainless steel braiding (just slips over). The tubing is just normal PCV automotive tubing. The tight bends around the top were both parts left over from the stock airbox rig I pulled. The big loop on the bottom is the napa tubing. The dual nipple crankcase breather was sitting on the shelf at a hole in the wall Harley (non factory) shop (Od's cycle shop near dayton). I think it is a standard custom chrome part. If you have a REAL drooling problem, another T could be inserted in the lowest point of the loop and another tube could be hung straight down, with a radiator drain valve threaded into the end of it. I got one, but I don't accumulate enough to bother with it. Its pretty viscous, so I bet even if the whole bottom loop was nearly full, it would not blow out until it reached the level of one of the breathers. It was a little bright when I first put it in, and the ends of the braiding were fraying, so on another whim I threw some of that "liquid electrical tape" vinyl paint stuff on it. Up close it looks a little ratty, but from a few feet it looks fine. It made it less shiny and keeps the ends from fraying. When I see a speed shop sometime, I will get some of the colored braided stainless with some of the nice anodized end caps and put those on, which should look pretty good. Close up of setup.  Overall look  |
