| Author | Message | ||
     José_Quiñones |
Mbsween Start with the two obvious things first. Have the dealer reset the tps and check the ignition timing to make sure it is set at the FACTORY setting as explained in the service manual. These two steps usually get rid of the surging/stuttering. Also check that you have a good seal around your airbox and the intake manifold. Good luck, let us know what you find. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Jackandjohn... I had the same question, and resolved it by finding the idle mixture screw in the exploded parts diagram, figuring out where that was on the actual carb, and looking closely. There is an aluminum plug pressed in there, not easy to spot until you look right at it. Unfortunately, I don't remember where it was relative to the rest of the carb, doubtless someone else here will clear that up. I drilled a small hole in it carefully. There is a gap between the bottom of the plug and the idle screw, so you have a little room. Then I used a deck screw (nice small sharp point and threads that go almost all the way to the tip), threaded it into the hole in the plug, and pulled. Popped right out. When you put on the forcewinder, make sure you use the metal bracket that goes to the breather tubes. This is necessary to hold the carb on the bike  My 00 m2 actually had a 200 main jet (as I recall), which if anything is already too big (especially for my stock exhaust). I did not shim any needles or drill any other slides. The bike starts and runs much better, though I do still get a little ping at hard accel on anything but the best gas... I am more inclined to think that this is a timing issue more then a jetting issue... but have not had time to look into it. | ||
| Sarodude |
I THINK the Air Bleed screw / plug are on the bottom of the carb towards the engine side. I was under the impression that the plug was like a cap. It's actually somewhat thick. Drill carefully nontheless. I DO have a question regarding float levels. Has anyone experimented with float levels on the CV carbs? All other things being equal, where do you notice the greatest changes? I've seen references to tuning out steady state part throttle surges and nothing more... -Saro | ||
| Gcpoland |
I would change the pilot jet, remove the mixture plug, adjust it, then ride it for awhile. I have personally never found any advantage to using the sportster needle. I would not drill the bleed hole in the slide at all. It generally will cause more problems than help. As I said, do the pilot and adjust the mixture and ride it. If it performs well, and you like it, then work on adjusting the main. As said above, chances are you will have to go leaner than the factory for the main. I also recommend that you stop at a pet store and but an otiscope (ear scope). They are under $20 and help adjust jetting by reading the fire ring on the porcelan (sp) insulator of the spark plug. Even if at first you are not sure of what you are looking at, with patience, you will see the ring move up and down and change width. This is a lot more accurate than trying to gage jetting by plug color. With so many additives in the differant fuels today, correct plug color can vary from light gray to dark tan depending on brand of gas. Reading the fire ring is a lot more accurate. Once you learn how to do it right, jetting becomes easy. Probably more information than you ever wanted to know, but you can safely ignore the last paragraph and just read the first two and you will be fine. Gary | ||
| Rempss |
Glider, The PCIII is more to adjust for the Force exhaust, but you are right I'm pretty anal about most things. I monitor all my sensors - AIT, TPS, O2 and Head temp, make small adjustments all of the time until I get it just right. Break-in complete, runs great, a few more miles of adjustments based on O2 readings and I will run it on the Dyno, my dealer has a 2 week wait for service/dyno time right now. Going to give it another 500 miles, they have the new Dynojet to set-up custom maps, but when the serve guy starts using words like "probably", "maybe", "should", "as long as I don't run into problems" and of course "if it doesnt run better afterword, maybe it's the way you put it together" , makes me think I'll build my own map for now. Matt, How many miles on your bike? Did you have the TPS & timing reset at your 500 mile service? When did the problem start, before any of the mods you listed? Or after which one? If it got worse when you installed the pipe, what sealer did you use on the pipe/header connection? Any silicone can kill your O2 sensor right away. Compression test at operating temp? Use Jose tips first, they are always the fisrt line of though on the FI bikes. Make sure airbox is sealed, check intake seals, check exhaust seals, make sure TPS/timing are set correctly. I'll bet one of theose will fix you up. If not, check fuel pressure, make sure both injectors are providing fuel. Do these both at operating temp, seems to be a connection there. Keep us posted. Jeff | ||
| Rempss |
Matt, Now that I have read/seen your webpage. If this problem did not exist before winter but now does, I would change the O2 sensor before going to the dealer. Bosch catalog number above. Still check all seals first. Personal opinion here - throw the Splitfires away, a good standard plug in the right heat range, or if you like hi-tech stuff the newer irridium plugs. Nallin sells them. Jeff | ||
| Henrik |
Gary: please elaborate on the "fire ring" issue. I think I know what you're talking about, but would like you to explain what makes the ring move where? How do you run the bike before doing a reading? Do just run it as usual, or do you run it for awhile at a certain RPM/throttle opening, pull the clutch, kill the enging (kill switch) and *then* read? etc. Thanks Henrik | ||
| Jocklandjohn |
Ok guys - thanks for the assistance. I will proceed with caution! Going to do the mods one at a time and see what the effect is. If I get stuck I will squeal for help! | ||
| Mbsween |
Jeff/Jose, Thansk for the replies. Some details, I have 5200 or so on the bike. The problem first showed it head around 3900 with the stock ECM. TPS was reset at 500 and when the Race ECM was added. I didn't use any sealant on the slipon-header junction. Oddly enough as I was taking it to the dealer today, I did the 50 - 60 mph in 5 th gear for 2 minute thing. It ran much better afterwards. The reason for the splitfires was that I was fouling stock plugs left and right. the splitfires seem to handle the carbon better. I asked the dealer to check timing, zero TPS and check for manifold leaks. Hopefully that'll fix it. It rides so much better with the pipe! Its killin me to have it the shop. Thanks again Matt | ||
| Mgg01 |
Hi Folks, I would like some advice. I have an X1 and have been adding mods (IMHO) the most bang for the buck. Now kind of wondering what would be next in line. I use this a track bike and sometimes commute bike. Here is what I have done so far. 1. Race ECM/Buell Race Air Cleaner/V&H exhaust 2. Crossroads handlebars, rear sets 3. Re-valve and new springs for front forks Now I am thinking about the following Buell Race headers PCIII ---------- Nallinizing Penske rear shock So what gains do you really get with the headers, and how much more can you get with the PCIII? Thanks, -mgg | ||
| Gcpoland |
Henrik The fire ring I use is a dark colored ring around the nose insulator. On a good running motor it should be down near the bottom, that is why you need an otiscope to view it. As the motor goes lean, the width of the ring will get smaller and move further down. Just the opposite, as it gets richer, the band gets wider and moves up. Just think of looking at a plug from a motor that has been at idle, the isulator is all black. This would be a wide ring showing a very rich condition. Ignition timing can also affect this, but for our purpose here we will assume that timing is correct. You would want the motor at operating tempture. Now make a run, it doesn't have to be long, at the RPM you want to check. Hit the kill switch and pull in the clutch. You can't let the motor idle or you will lose the reading. Pull the plug and check. As a double check, you can watch where the color changes on top of the ground strap. For this we don't really care what the color is, just the point at which you see a change in the shade of color. The closer to the curve it is, the leaner, the closer to the end, the richer. We assume that the motor is in good condition, good rings, good valves and no leaks. Any of these conditions will give you a false reading. Also, when I say color is not important, I don't mean that white with aluminum flecks is ok! Most modern fuels will burn with a gray color when running right. That can vary with differant parts of the country and does not include leaded race fuels. I suggest to people that are interested, to buy a used exhaust header and mount Exhaust Temp Probes in them. You can then velcro the EGT gage to the instrument cluster and watch the exhaust temp as you tune. When you are done, you take the used pipe and gage off and put the regular pipe back on. You can also go to a race track and wander around the pits and look for the guy with an otiscope in his front pocket. 9 times out of 10 he will be more than willing to show you how he does it. Please understand that the method I described is the way I do it. It by no means is the only way. I am learning and refining my methods every time I talk to a good tuner and he points out something differant in his method that works. Gary | ||
| Henrik |
Gary; that's great information. Thanks. Henrik | ||
| Reepicheep |
Anybody ever try one of those "colortune" plugs, or whatever they are called? It is a clear glass plug so you can see the color of the firing in the combustion chamber, and some of the old english car tuners swear by them. Is it just a gimmick, or does the color of the burn tell you something? | ||
| Sandstorm |
Gary......Mike here from N.H.  finally found someone in the area. Excellent information. where's the pics of your cyclone?? Are you planning on coming up for bike week in June?? | ||
| Richieg150 |
Im trying to dial in a mikuni on my 2000 M2.It boggs down when throttled from idle to wide open.idleing.I installed a 50 accel.pump nozzle in stead of the 70.I put in a 25 primary jet,it didnt help.I then put in a 22.5 primary jet,it seemed to help some.The mikuni manual says if it runs better with the airscrew less than 1 turn out,you need a bigger primary jet.If it doesnt slow down after 2 1/2 turns out,you need to go smaller.Right now it seems to run better more than 1 turn out,but I turned the airscrew about 4 turns out with no change in the idle.So if I getting this right I need to go smaller with the primary jet!?!So tomorrow im going to try a 20 primary jet,and see what happens with the airscrew ?Keeping my fingers crossed!! | ||
| Aaron |
Doesn't the manual say that the pilot circuit is completely shut off at more than 1/8 throttle? I personally wouldn't expect it to have any effect at WOT. Don't mean to pick on anyone, but I also don't think it's realistic to open up a Mikuni to WOT from idle and expect it to respond. | ||
| Richieg150 |
AAron,you may be right about opening up the throttle from idle .I just was told cracking the throttle that way should be smooth,with no hesitation.The mikuni manual agrees with you about the idle circuit.If Im understanding this all correctly,once the bike responds correctly with the airscrew adjustments to get the primary jet correct,next is raising or lowerimg the needle,while somehow adjusing the accelerator pump!Im feeling like maybe I should have left the CV carb on!It was working great,but was told this was a much more responsive-better carb!I may have to take it to the dealer and have then get it right VIA dyno and experience! | ||
| Peter |
Gary, What is an 'otiscope'?. PPiA | ||
| Pammy |
Pete, it's the dealio that the Doc sticks in your ear to have a look around. | ||
| Aaron |
Similarly, your needle adjustment does little or nothing at WOT. This isn't a vacuum operated slide, when you open the throttle wide open, the needle is simultaneously and immediately pulled all the way up. You're trying to fix something that ain't broke. | ||
| Coop |
I have another question about my 2002 x1, when I open the throttle too fast from an idle, sometimes it pops through the intake, if I open it slow at first until the rpm's build up a little and then open it up, it is fine, is this common, thank-you. | ||
| Hans |
 Peter, an otoscope is a strong magnifying glass, with an illumination of the object by concentric glass fibres in the wall of the scope, to inspect eardrums. Fabulous instrument to inspect small dark corners. Hans. | ||
| Peter |
Pammy and Hans, Thanks for the clarification, but why do they sell them at pet shops? PPiA | ||
| Hans |
Peter: Tool costs 20, same tool (human medical use) costs 500. Hans. | ||
| Mbsween |
Okay, Still haven't found a solution to the surging on the 2001 X1. The dealer is useless, they had someone "look" and it and test ride it, for 5 miles. It must be a heck of a mechanic that can see a fuel injection problem. The dealer is the Cycle Stop in Rochester, NY. Anyone deal with them? I specifically went over with them that the problem doesn't surface until 15 or more miles  . Anyways till I find a better dealer, I decided to replace the O2 sensor. My question is how the hell do you get the existing O2 sensor off and maintain sanity? I have a 7/8" crowsfoot, but I can't get a good bite given the exhaust stud clearance. Is the easiest way to remove the exhaust header? Thanks Matt | ||
| Roadrunr |
mbsween: No, remove the battery, then you will have more room to get your wrench on that little bugger. | ||
| Richieg150 |
Iwas told by a dealer mechanic to forgo the manuals suggestion about tuning the primary jet.If the bike idles better a less than 1 turn out on the airscrew,the pilot is to lean.If the bike doesnt slow down after 2 1/2 turn out its to rich.I have been trying to dial mine in,started with the 25,then the 22.5.It runs better about 1 1/2 turns out on the airscrew,but doesnt slow down if I continue screwing the airsdrew out!So,according to the manual,Im still to rich and need to go down on the primary.He told me to put in a 30,and it would be fine.HMMMMMMMMM,kinda confused,but he puts on about 200 mikunis a year!He says this set up is what i need for my Buell.Ive got the 30 in now,but cant help but think,I should have a primary jet alot smaller?Any help on this would be appreciated!!  | ||
| Gcpoland |
If it runs right with a 30 pilot jet, you got an air leak somewhere. Are you sure you haven't damaged the rubber seal in the manifold? The largest I have ever personally used was a 27, and that was a big inch motor. What exactly is the bike doing now as you accelerate from 2000rpm to WOT? I am unclear now, what you are trying to cure. Gary | ||
| Peter |
Matt, It's easier with a socket. PPiA | ||
| Richieg150 |
Gcpoland,look at my post April 10:17 pm. |
