| Author | Message | ||
     X1glider |
I'm taking it in for zeroing tomorrow. I fill up wherever I am, no brand loyalty in gas for me. The Buell is only 1/2pt higher in compression than my Hog, which has been doing great for over a year. It is weird. Something I learned in auto mechanics class in high school: <9.5:1 = 87 oct 9.5-11:1 = 89 oct >11:1 = 93 oct maybe this only applies to liquid cooled engines and the fact that autos generally had better fuel management systems. I'm not sure. Holes in my pistons...hmmmm. Sounds like a good excuse to get the Nallin 1250 kit!  | ||
| Rempss |
TPS reset & static timing is a part of the 500 mile maintenance. Only the 500 mile, not again unless needed. 78 degrees, I've heard enough.  I recommend replacing the stock top end with the 1250 kit right away. If not you may be gambling with your sanity, this is not a matter to take lightly. Make the call!!!  Run the high octane for sure, I had pinging last year with the new plugs any time it was >75 degrees with lower octane. Just my opinion(s), Jeff | ||
| X1glider |
Awww, Jeff...not jealous of our weather down here are you? It'll be 82 tomorrow! HAHA But it'll be 110 in 4 more weeks.  Well, the stuttering hasn't come back yet  . I took out the snorkel for grins and ran around for 10 more minutes. I thought that maybe the IATS would be more accurate if the measurement was taken from the same airspace. (hey! I'm learning and still don't have the manual! ) I seem to have lost a little power by doing so. Maybe the breadbox doesn't seal that well. So I put the snorkel back on and I wouldn't say it seemed better but it did sound different. When I took out the snorkel, did the ECM recalibrate itself somehow for the new situation?  Other than that, I'm wondering if a better O2 sensor would be of help. | ||
| Spiderman |
I'm looking into putting the blast auto enricher on my M2s carb i took my buddies blast apart and the auto enricher looks like it will fit thus eliminating my having to screw with that damn choke nob <insert joke here>  | ||
| Hans |
Spiderman, Why "screw" that enrichener if you can simply push it? Or... are you screwing the stationary adjusting button on the right side above the carb? Hans. | ||
| Spiderman |
Hans , Hans , Hans i was useing slang like "don't screw with him, he's crazy" oh yes i push and i pull and it sucks ass  | ||
| Hans |
Spiderman, Automatic enrichening at FI engines with complete fuel management works splendid. In carburated engines I don`t like automatic enricheners: Sometimes too much and always too long. After warming the engine up a little bit and still needing the enrichener when mounting the bike: One fast push on the right place for the finishing touch. I remember that I had even to stop on one of the first rides to find that button. It was the fastest way to learn me how to manage the enrichener without screwing around with it.  Hans. | ||
| Spiderman |
i really dont have a problem with it ie. finding it finding the right area to keep it etc, i just want to start and go you know what i mean vern. | ||
| Blake |
Spidy: It's an interesting idea. I like being able ot manually control the enrichener. It is a valuable tuning aid and should you develop an intake manifold leak, the enrichener can be activated to help compensate for the leaness until you get home and make repairs. I am definitely a control feak though.  Blake (makingnoteofspidy'spatchdebt) | ||
| Tommyboy |
All, I want to replace my O2 sensor...do I need to use any type of anti-seize compond or loctite? Also, does anyone have access to a shop manuel to look up the torque value of the O2 sensor? Thanks in advance, Tommyboy | ||
| Spiderman |
Point (which patches i didnt see no patches ) | ||
| Fresh |
Tommyboy, If there is a plastic cap on the thread of the o2 sensor it might be with anti seize by manufacturer allready, some have that. check first. If not, a high temp anti seize will do. Do not use loctite, the temps are too high for loctite to last. No hands on with Buell torque value but for the car i used 30 - 40 ft.lbs. Fresh | ||
| Tommyboy |
Fresh, Thanks for the note. It did have a plastic cap and also had anti-sieze goop on the threads. Changing the sensor helped to minimize my slow return to idle problem. I've checked for air leaks, (could still be there) and my dealer checked that I have the rigth ECM FLash..6 something. The TSP and cam sensor are both right on but I still have a little heasitation returning to a normal idle. Otherwise the bike is running great. Thanks again. Tommyboy | ||
| X1glider |
Ok, I got my TPS rezeroed Saturday and my stuttering and surging is gone! . Thanks everyone. Had no problemos on the ride immediately after from Houston to Longview and back. Ouch! My butt hurts! I'd still like to know if I would benefit from a better O2 sensor. I read in the archive about a "wide band" sensor. Huh? | ||
| Blake |
X1G, Glad your dealer got it right and your X1 is runing as it should. You rode through Kilgore and didn't even stop to say hello? The wide band sensor is a dyno tuning tool that acurately reports the actual percentage of oxygen for a wide range of lean/rich A/F ratios. It will not work as a sensor for your DDFI. They are priced upwards of $1,000. | ||
| Skulley |
Blake, not sure where to put PC questions maybe they need their own subtopic? Question. Power ComanderIII, is it nessary if you use a 1250 big bore kit with worked heads, and cams? anyone compair the III with the IIIr? or will the race ECM do just fine alone? | ||
| Seeeu911 |
 Hello all a Bueller I know has the following problem: Thanks for the help,.."I put in a 155 main and a 25 pilot with the stock needle in the middle clip.The bike runs great,but if im idleing a twist the throttle full wide open the bike will bog down ands die unless i let off the throttle!If i slowly throttle up.it is fine.Then I go from idle to fwo,the bike bogs down!IThe idle screw is at about 2 turns out,i screwed the air mixture screw in and out like the manual says,and it ended up at about 2 turns out.Which tells me the primary jet is ok!The primary jet i took out was a 30.It didnt do it with that jet,but it was way to rich.Should i try the next size primary jet? " Whats' your input ? His bike stats: a42 mikuni 2000 m2.I have a Vance and hines slip on,497 lift cams,Nallins millineum cylinders and pistons(his 1250 big bore kit). | ||
| Gcpoland |
What he has sounds like an over rich accelerator pump nozzle. If the carb orininally was meant for a big twin it has a #70 nozzle in it. Even if it was set up for a Sportster it has a #60 in it. These are too big for the motor. Use a #50(TM42/11-50). Then set the point at which the pump comes in a little later. (This is a change it a little, and ride it adjustment). The above advice assumes that he has checked the enrichner and cable to make sure it is not hanging open. Some kits come with a Mikuni cable and some want you to use the Harley one. If at all possible, throw the Harley one away and get a Mikuni cable. If the Harley cable is not sticking now it soon will. Gary | ||
| X1glider |
Skulley: http://www.sporttwin.com/dd/ Down at the botton under tech notes is where you'd be interested. If the cam timing hasn't changed, the race ECM would do fine since it also controls ignition timing. The PCIIIr can help adjust ignition timing but not on a Buell. The PCIII is what you would need. Most likely with the extra 50 cc in your 1250, headwork and more cam lift, you'd be running a bit lean, so it would help to add fuel where needed. I'm pretty sure the Buell race ECM will only take in to account fuel management for a 1200, with the pro exhaust sytem and K&N, no more. I'd definitely recommend dyno testing before buying the PCIII to tell if you need it or not. I'm sure Aaron or Jose would know much more. | ||
| X1glider |
In light of the above topic, I'm curious. Is it necessary to use the factory ECM to control BOTH ignition and fuel delivery? Perhaps, it would be possible to get an aftermaket ignition system like a DYNA2000 to do spark duty if you got some really radical cams? And let the ECM still take care of fuel? Possibly with the PCIII making fuel adjustments to match the new cam? Hmmm. Might be a stretch but I doubt it. Someone definitely needs to make an aftermarket ECM. From what I can tell, we only have 2 ECMs (stock and race) designed to be use with 2 cams (stock and lightning). Or am I wrong?  | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Stock X1 cams ARE LIGHTNING CAMS. Same thing. For the setup described above (1250) the PCIII is probably the way to go. I just with that with the race ecm you could plug the bike to your laptop to reset the TPS and fool around with it some. | ||
| X1glider |
I might have been thinking of the SE .536 lift cam. Ahh, what the hell do I know? Yeah, I wish there was scanalyzer software for a laptop so I could reset the TPS and diagnose stuff. Maybe there is. Kinda sux that we can work on everything else but have to go to the shop for a TPS reset. Wonder how much a scanalyzer runs? I'll have to look at the strap-on site. I think they make the tools for HD. | ||
| Rempss |
The TPS reset is not as bad as it sounds around here. You only need to reset it: (1) at 500 mile service (2) anytime a new ECM (stock or race) is swapped in (3) if the TPS itself is removed or replaced So far I have seen all 3 conditions - $150. Any tool that cost over $150 would be waste, it's the only thing you need the Scanalyzer (Kent Moore makes it) simple sensor diagnostics can be accomplished with a jumper wire and the "Check Engine" light. It would be nice to use a computer to re-map the ECM, but along comes the aftermarket with the PCIII - problem solved. I don't think the PCIII is "needed" for the 1250 kit, that Race ECM has a lot of abilities, but with the correct senor readings the PCIII does give total control of fuel flow. I speculate you could buy a Race ECM, PCIII, all new sensors, have a Dynojet custom map made, have the dealer reset the TPS 3-4 times and stiil have less invested than the Scanalyzer set-up would be. Unless I do one of the above 3 items, I will never have to have the dealer touch my bike again. Jeff (standingfirmlyindefenseofddfifuleinjection) | ||
| Sarodude |
Want to program the stock ECM? We talked about it some here. I don't have an injected bike but was interested in contributing nontheless. Things never even got rolling as nobody was able to non-destructively get through the potting compound. Feel free to post there and bring that topic back to some life! -Saro | ||
| X1glider |
Rempss: Did you say your Nallinization was finally broken in? When are getting it on a dyno? I noticed in your profile you have a PCIII even though you think it's not "needed." I'd be interested to see if the Race ECM really can handle things without the PCIII or will you not even try it? I figure you're the type who would keep the PCIII and make a custom map going for the "OPTIMUM." | ||
| Richieg150 |
Hello Buellers,my bike is the one in the above post of SUEE911.I took my mikuni apart and found instead of the recommended 97 needle,there was a 95.I ordered a 97 needle,whats the input on changing the accel.pump nozzle now?Could that have been my problem in the above mentioned post?The manual says the carb comes with a 70 standard,60 for sporster,and 50 lean.I ordered the 50 nozzle,in case just installing the 97 needle doesnt do it.But,mikuni says that the buell set-up is with the 70 nozzle!These are the things that make you go HMMMMMMMMM,heys guys thanks for any help!!CYAA | ||
| Aaron |
I like the 70. | ||
| Mbsween |
Hey all, I have a 2001 X1 with Race Ecm, gutted Air Box and E-series pipe (you can see it at http://www.mbsween.com/buell.html). In theroy the dealer rezeroed the TPS when I had the race ECM put in. (I did the mods i this order: airbox, race ECM, E-series) I've been having a problem with surging/stalling, but pretty much only around the 3500-4000 rpm mark. It seems to have gotten much worse since adding the pipe. One trick that seems to make it go away is to kill the motor, then start again. I pulled the plugs, did a compression test 130 ish front, 125ish rear (didn't do the oil thing, read the manual after I put it back together  ) So now the question, it seems like its running way rich (plugs, you can see them at the website also). Nothing else obvious seems to be bad (oil consumption is flat, compression looks good). Does this sound like a TPS reset is needed? Geez, I was reading some of the posts, I thought I got out of Thermo & Fluid 15 yrs ago. Is the Buell an Engineers bike? (I'm a degreed ME) Thanks Matt | ||
| Gcpoland |
I like the 50 nozzle on most everything. Differant tuners prefer to work with differant parts. I also work at sea level. In general, you ask 5 differant tuners and you will get many answers. It all is in how you want to tune for your transitions. The nice thing about the Mikuni is that tuning parts are cheap and relatively easy to change out. Try one thing at a time and test. A dyno is not necessarly needed. A buddy with a stop watch and a day to kill, will get you the same tune up. To answer your question about the needle, the differance between those needles are not great enough to cause a bog as severe as described. Check enrichner freeplay, float level, and all jets are tightened. Set the screw for pump engagement to come in at a later throttle opening and see if that helps. Try one thing at a time and write it down. As tempting as it is to change a bunch of things at ounce, resist and change only one. That way you will soon come to understand what changing a certain part will do to performance. | ||
| Jocklandjohn |
Can someone 'deconfuse' me please? Installing a freer flowing air-intake and losing the breadbox, and fitting a new model Supertrapp IDS on my '00 M2, so going to do the carb mods as well, however having trouble identifying the correct bits to poke at. The various descriptions I have describe "drill out the plug over the idle mixture screw" (Badweb K.V.) or "drill out the metal cover that covers the air-bleed screw" (ATC tech tips). I presume these are both the same screw? I have the workshop manual but can see neither clearly identified in the exploded carb diagram on page 4-16, although there is an 'idle mixture screw' shown on Page 4-8 (fig.4-5). From this picture and comments in the K.Vault I figure it is on the rear bottom of the carb near the manifold, almost below the fitting identified in the carb diagram as '7 - Fitting V.O.E.S.)' Is this the correct location/screw??? Also where exactly is the hole that connects the vacuum chamber to the venturi that (possibly) needs the 0.110inch drill - is it visible in the exploded diagram on P4-16 (and perfectly obvious in the flesh?), have not got the carb off yet - thought I should figure out the plan before getting into the toolbox! Guidance will be welcomed from anyone with a workshop manual who can have a look and point me in the right direction, or who has done the mods and knows exactly where I need to look. I'm going for the Sportster needle, and on the recommendation of the Harley/Buell techs at the dealer, starting with an 85 main jet to see how it runs. |
