| Author | Message | ||
     Aaron |
Was it leaking between the sprocket shaft and the spacer, or between the spacer and the seal? If it's coming from between the sprocket shaft and the spacer, I wouldn't be concerned. If it's coming from between the spacer and the seal, change the seal. Also take a look at the spacer and if the seal has worn a groove in it, change it as well. | ||
| Henrik |
Thanks Aaron; the leak does seem to come from between the sprocket shaft and the spacer. The seal, however doesn't have the garter spring in it (mentioned in the archives) - must be an older version. I'll go ahead and replace it with the "double lip" version Neil mentioned, now that I'm in there anyway. Henrik | ||
| Aaron |
What's the part number on the double lip seal? I can't seem to find it anywhere. | ||
| Henrik |
I didn't find it either - someone asked Neil, back when he mentioned it, but no #. I believe the original seal part # is: 35151-74. Spacer: 40240-89. Henrik | ||
| Fresh |
Hi all, Just a short question, When adjusting the primary chain to the correct freeplay, how much force do you have to use to push down and pull up the chain. Is it just losely or push untill your fingers turn white. Thx. Fresh | ||
| Hans |
Fresh: Difference between firm and strong is almost zero. I use the side of a screwdriver while I think a point push goes wider than a couple of fingers. Hans. | ||
| Ara |
HELP! I've begun the process of removing the primary cover in order to replace the primary chain tensioner with the new/heavier unit, but I can't get the primary cover off. I've removed the clutch ramp, unscrewed the chain tensioner all the way, and removed all of the primary cover screws. I've tapped it with a rubber mallet and I can see a little movement at the top edge and at the shift shaft when I pull on it, but the silly thing is stuck. I can't figure it out. Please, any suggestions? Russ | ||
| Ara |
Oh, so you actually have to remove the two BIG bolts at the bottom of the cover? Sheesh, whoda thunk that?  Thanks anyway, folks. Russ | ||
| Fresh |
Hans, Thx, I pushed myself silly, marks are still in my finger tips. I replaced the old tensioner for new beefy one, so i check today because of expected increase wear in at beginning of use of new tensioner. Hmm, yes i will use the screwdriver nxt time. Fresh | ||
| Ara |
With 23,500 miles on the clock, the original primary chain tensioner on my '97 S3 was structurally sound and the groves in the rubbing block were a modest 1/16 inch deep. Pretty straightforward job, made a LOT easier by using the hardwood dowels to keep the primary cover gasket properly oriented. Thanks to Aaron, Reepicheep and others for the clever methodology! I took a 35mm photo of the primary with the dowels installed for the photo archives here. As soon as I get that roll developed... I think I screwed up the sift shaft seal when I put it on over the shaft even though I covered the splines with a layer of masking tape. Russ | ||
| Mikej |
Henrik, Is this the same seal that Neil got last summer here in Wisconsin? (I think it was Neil?) If so I recall there is also a new special insertion tool to properly install the new seal. I thought there was a new p/n for the seal as well, but seeings as that was 7 months ago I could be wrong. MikeJ (I forget, who's on first, right? Or was he left?) | ||
| Ccryder |
There ya go talking about me again  . Yup best I can recall I wanted Hal's to get one for me even thought they really couldn't put it in and didn't think that was the problem (But Hal's could get one in a day but I didn't want to have them bother). Well, it was the problem and my local Dealer ended up putting one in when I got back. No more puking  . Anyway the special seal is no longer special and is now the stock seal. If you can figure that out then..... Time4Real Work. Neil S. | ||
| Iiweeldman |
 Has anyone ever had a chain tensioner break on them?? I have a 2000 S3 with roughly 9 thousand miles, I came to a light, went to shift into first and I couldn't. Took off the primary cover and found that the bottom metal piece of the tensioner had split in half breaking off a piece of plastic that had jamed in the linkage behind the clutch basket. Lucky for me the piece of metal had stayed where it broke and not found its way into the tranny. Is there a heavy duty replacement for the stock unit? I have seen the M6, but I would rather have something more rigid. thanks Scott | ||
| Ara |
Iiweeldman - Yes, and I think that's what got this section of the BBS started. Go back to the earliest archive of this section, and view the various pictures of broken tensioners. Of particular value are Reepicheep's and Aaron's Sunday, August 5, 2001 entries. Aaron's post is a how-to complete with part numbers. (He leaves out adding the primary gear oil in his how-to, but who could forget that?) BTW I just replaced the tensioner on my S3 LAST NIGHT, so it's pretty fresh in my mind. Any damage to the outer primary of your bike? Russ | ||
| Iiweeldman |
Ara After closer inspection everything looks to be in working order, there is a little chip out of one of the magnets on the rotor, but very minute, and all the magnets are still glued to the rotor, the out primary did recieve some gouge marks, but nothing to threaten the integrity of the cover. I will check out the earlier sections, thanks for the help Scott | ||
| Henrik |
Main shaft seal: Well, I hope the part # is 35151-74A, 'casue that's what I just ordered. It's basically the old part # with the "A" added. The spacer is p/n: 40240-89. I'll let you know on Wednesday, when I hopefully get the parts, whether it's the right parts  Henrik | ||
| Jmartz |
My earlier style primary chain tensioner broke at circa 32,000. I replaced it with another earlier style unit as the issue of sustained failures of this part had not yet come to light. While doing an oil change and general maintenance on the old dirty bird at 45,000 miles I decided to pull the primary cover and inspect the tensioner shoe assembly. To my surprise it was not broken and had little if any wear on the nylon. I left it alone. I'll look in there again at 60,000. Jose PS I love tempting fate... | ||
| Ara |
Jose, mine looked fine at 23,500 miles. Like you, I think I could wait another 20K miles to replace it. In the absence of x-ray eyes to measure metal fatigue, and since I had the parts, I decided to change it anyway. It was a combination of the "while you're there" theory of maintenace and the "cheap insurance" theory of peace of mind. Russ | ||
| Jmartz |
Ara: You are correct about the fatigue on the part and my inability to know its condition for certain in the absence of sophisticated testing equipment. I based my choice on an educated guess. The part could last a while or brake fairly soon but since I don't really know, $3.75 for a gasket and half and hour under the bike is my gamble. Kind of like riding w/o a helmet, if I fall I might be hurt but since I don't fall that frequently, the likelyhood of needing it is low. | ||
| Iiweeldman |
In my case, I opted for the heavy duty tensioner, I would recommend to anyone that rides their machine rather on the radical side. I don't beat the living snot out of my baby everyday, but there is the occasional standup burnout, holeshot against some rice, and maybe some back road wheelies. Think of it as some peace of mind when your screamin at 6500. Scott | ||
| Ara |
Iiweeldman - Yes, I have the theory that the bikes that have experienced chain tensioner failures might be ridden harder. I don't know whether it's primarily sustained high rpms or abrupt snaps of the throttle, I think your advice is sound. I guess I must ride mine pretty gently, but I removed all doubt and replaced the tensioner anyway. Russ | ||
| Jmartz |
When mine broke it sent nylon chunks all over. This immobolized the shifting mechanism and I had to get home from 70 miles away in 2nd + clutch, throttle up to 5-6 K and pull the clutch in as if you were going to shift, then let it coast to 20 mph and repeat the process again. I dont't want to even think what could happen if a chunk of nylon got caught between the chain and the sprockets. Jim's special "tool" to remove the primary side nuts is just that, a chunk of nylon. | ||
| Henrik |
Engine sprocket seal and spacer: Good news: these are the correct part #s: Seal: 35151-74A, $7.40 Spacer: 40240-89, $6.75 Bad news: You *do* need the seal installer tool. I did the "homework" for ya'll, and neither oversize socket nor 1 1/2" PVC pipe works  The seal is a very tight fit, and I got it in so about 1/16" of the outer edge was protruding beyond the outer edge - then it wouldn't budge, and the rubber started disintegrating when I kept pounding. You can get the right tool from Jim's for around $125. I've a call out to a dealer for a price on the HD tool. I'll let you know. Henrik | ||
| Rempss |
Henrik - I used 1 1/4" PVC couplings, 2 duct taped together with a cap on the end to tap in place. Took a few light taps to get it square in the recess, but worked fine. The coupling is an exact fit on the outside edge of the seal. Jeff | ||
| Henrik |
Jeff: was that the old or the new seal? Looking at the old seal, I'd think I could tap it in. The new seal however is quite substantial; probably half again as "deep" as the old version, and with 2 garter springs. It also seems to be a bit oversized compared to the recess, which, I think, is why the outer edge of the seal catches on the outer edge of the recess. I'll take a look at the couplings. Since the spacer is exactly 1.5" outside diameter, I'd hoped that 1 1/2" pipe would actually be 1 1/2" inside diameter and be a good fit. But with these SAE measures where a 2x4 actually is 1 1/2"x3 1/2" I should have known better . It's about 1/16 - 1/8" over. Henrik | ||
| Blake |
Henrik: Mike Paladino (MikeyP) performed the same seal replacement last summer and was able to borrow the installation tool. Maybe he can hook you up? | ||
| Jmartz |
Henrik: The complete tool with the accessories that use the sprocketshaft threads to hold and push might be $125 but all you need is the last ring that fits inside the seal where it is stroner. The seal is installed in reverse (relatively speaking) so it is not as easy to install it w/o the special tool. The "ring" I'm talking about is about $25 from a motorcycle supply catalogue. Jose | ||
| Rempss |
Henrik - Mine was the old seal, 3/16"-1/4" deep 1 garter spring. I may pick up a new one of the above part numbers and see it in person. The depth should not be a problem, just setting it square. The coupling is an exact fit on the outside metal flange. Jeff | ||
| Henrik |
Blake: as we all know, MikeP has more "connections" than most of us - it's the return favors those "connections" would ask for that worries me  (Mike, you know I love ya man) I heard back from Manchester HD&B this morning, and the actual installer (the "last ring" ) is $19, and the handle to hold it is $75. Now, I'm sure a person with the alotted number of thumbs would be able to do without the handle, so I've ordered the "ring" and a new seal. I'll let you know how it goes. Henrik (feel like a "guinea pig" right now) | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Ok, bad seal. Engine oil in primary....Yes, I have the manual. Before I dig in, I would like to tap the well of experience here. Speacial tools I'm reading above ? How do I do this and what are the major issues/pitfalls ?  Henrik, any luck ? |
