| Author | Message | ||
     Bomber |
Loki 'bout 5 . . . . . | ||
| Loki |
Bomber, drop me a snail mail address. Me thinks we got some extra at work. Loki | ||
| Bomber |
Loki Thanks a ton, o mischiveous one, but I found some locally . . . . .now I'll know where to get it in the future, rather than to come snivling to you door . . .. " please, sir, can I have another?" yer a gent | ||
| Ccryder |
Hey Henrik: Those lights are PIAA 1100X and they are BRIGHT and throw a really nice concentrated pattern that is good for high speed as well as curvy riding. They are just mounted straight to the fairing without any backup. They are very light and between Sparky and Stripe'r they have seen 30k+ miles on the same bulb and no cracks. Here is their pattern:   One trick I found that was even though the pattern is suposed to be round it ain't. Soooo I turned the bulbs 90deg so the "PIAA" logo is readable and then just ride the shit out of them.  Time2Run Neil S. | ||
| V2win |
I am having a pair of brackets made to fit a set to my forks. Kind of like motolight but with a set of PIAA instead. Hey Neil, how come your headlight looks like is sets in the fairing crooked? | ||
| Henrik |
Neil: thanks - 30K miles is a good indication of quality and ability to stand up to the abuse. I've had my eyes on them on the CBT Import site. John: What kind of brackets? I've looked at the Top of the Line on the CBT site, but wanted, like you, lights that turn with the forks. The TOTL brackets looks like they'd be possible to replicate, but I've yet to figure a way to fit them onto forks so they peek out underneath the S2 fairing. Can you post a drawing or picture of your brackets? Henrik | ||
| V2win |
When they are made, I will post a photo. | ||
| Ccryder |
Henrik: CBT is the place where I got my set, good people. I also have a set of brackets that Pammy turned me onto that would work on the fork tubes. If you want a set you could have them at a real reasonable price. They are stamped and for mounting some fairing but work real good. If your thinking about fork mounting because of lighting in the turns, with the 1100X they light more than enough to readily show you the way. Anyway John you saw my lighting set up when you and Bob stopped off in EVV with my HID for the main headlight. Time4Sleep, 4:30 comes around too soon. Neil S. | ||
| Mikej |
Henrik, For mounting the aux lights to my M2 forks I used some saddle clamps and aluminum flat-bar stock, then bicycle inner tube to provide friction to the fork legs. Don't know if they show up in the pic Brad/BluzM2 posted last July. Seemed to hold up for the cross-country ride okay, although my choice of lights could have been better (didn't go with PIAA at first). The saddle clamps are like the clamps used to hold pipe onto a wall in a garage, only bigger, basically just stamped and formed sheetmetal. I'll probably do something similar to the S2 eventually. | ||
| Ccryder |
 The Topic Police have struck again!  Anyway The PIAA lights can't be beat they are high quality throughout from the lights through the connectors and harness. Other companies offer similar looking lights for less $'s but they lack in light output or quality.  BTW:  Got2Run Neil S. | ||
| Henrik |
Topic Police: I figured, since I messed up and got us started on this in the wrong topic, I'd get us back on track  Neil, MikeJ: thanks for the bracket suggestions. Neil, can you shoot me a picture of the brackets you have? Henrik | ||
| Kahuna |
 This past weekend, I've finally got rid of the breadbox by installing a new cleaner. I was hoping to get rid of the air scope as well, and relocate the horn to behind the windscreen. Well, I was half way there, but the horn wires would not reach to behind the windscreen  . Do I have any choice? Do I need to remove the tank to get to the wires? Any other options? Please help, Thanks! | ||
| Blake |
Kahuna: Just splice on the required length of equivalent or lower gauge (larger) wire and cover with shrink wrap. Use a good quality connector or solder the splices. | ||
| Court |
Hint: Disconnect battery and/or use appropriate caution splicing and cutting wires near the fuel cell. Sparky Neutron | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Ever get grief from the family for riding too long, you know that lost in time effect Buell's give you ? Disclaimer: no comission, no free stuff.. I just like and use their products. formotionproducts.com/products.htm Here is pic of my bike on their site formotionproducts.com/customer_bikes.htm  | ||
| Seeeu911 |
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| Kahuna |
To all who helped, thanks! I've completed my horn relocation.  The horn is mounted to the frame using two steel plates, which came in very handy. I split them and bolted them in series. I had to do that becuase the headlight was in the way of mouting it to the turn signal. I also had to cut the horn wires and extend them. All mounted pretty well and snug in the end. One side effect though is that the horn now is !@%$#@ loud!!  | ||
| Blake |
Kahuna: I can see how the horn would be LOUD for you; I'm wondering how effective it is for the traffic in front of you though. Seems like the flyscreen would REALLY cut down on the horn's forward acting effectiveness. You might consider running a piece of flexible tubing from the mouth of the horn down under the flyscreen. | ||
| X1glider |
I'm a Buell newbie. Just got a 2001 X1 and am having a great time on it but hate the controls. Looks like there's a lot of knowledgeable and very creative people on this board. Being a Harley rider, I like the larger grips and switch housings better. I have a hard time operating the turn signal while holding in the clutch. Aside from Harley having 1" bars and Buells being 7/8"(?), does anyone know if the Buell and Harley switch wiring can be interchanged or made to work with each other. I can fab my own bars which, biomechanically, would better suit me. Other suggestions would be great too. (except stick to the hog) | ||
| Blake |
X1Glider: I think once you get used to the handlebars and switch gear you may find it much more ergonomically comfortable than your cruiser. It just takes some time to get used to is all. Get the switches positioned so they are easy to flick. Fatter/thicker grips can be had; no need to mount cruiser bars on a sport bike. One thing you will want to do though is to ensure that your brake and clutch levers are not rotated back (too high). The good rule of thumb for positioning those levers is to rotate them forward to a point that would intersect an imaginary line extending from the axis of your forearm. Looking down in a riding position, you should not be able to see the clutch and brake levers from behind the top of the grips, or maybe just barely. It may look funky compared to your cruiser setup but the same forearm axis alignment works for any bike. It's just that on a cruiser, your arms are more level or even, like with ape hangers or buckhorns, sloping upwards from elbow to wrist. Having to reach up and back to get your left hand over and around the clutch lever is a real pain! | ||
| X1glider |
I'll give the adjustments a fair shot. I guess I'm spoiled by having signals on both sides of the bars. Know any good sources for thicker grips? The stock ones concentarte too much pressure on the palms. Couldn't do long distance with these. | ||
| Buelliedan |
X1GLIDER, Thats actually kind funny to hear you say that. You see I have 2 newer Buells with the 7/8 bars and also a 96 S2 which uses the Harley Style one inch bars and self cancelling signals R&L sides. I find myself hating to ride the S2 if I haven't ridden it in a while! I keep hitting the horn trying to make a right turn!! That or I hit the starter when I finally realize the switch is on the right side! Maybe we should trade bikes! | ||
| X1glider |
Buelliedan, that's a good sign for me. There just might be electrical compatability with Harley controls. The loud grinding noise from you hitting the starter may be a good way to keep cagers from following too close! | ||
| Henrik |
X1Glider: try Progrip Rally gel grips. They're a bit thicker than stock, have a nice "barrel" shape that's more ergonomically correct, and the gel cushions nicely as well. Henrik | ||
| Blake |
X1Glider: And once you get to learning the sport bike technique of simultaneous front-braking/throttle-blipping while downshifting approaching a turn, you won't want to be trying to use your right hand thumb to activate the signal. | ||
| Madstuka |
Does anyone know where I can order a set of LEDs for my taillight and turn signals for a 98 S3? I checked clear alternatives but they don't seem to have a kit for an S3. | ||
| Rempss |
www.hyperlites.com - Not a plug-in item, will require modifictaion, can be put behind the lens. Also has a flasher if desired. Jeff | ||
| Henrik |
Some auto stores now carry plug-n-play led replacement "bulbs". I believe turnsignals and tail light uses #1157. Henrik | ||
| Bigmac |
help!! my speedometer on my 2000 M2 just quit can anyone point me in the right direction to fix it i am still covered under warrenty but my dealer can't fit me in until the 18th mike | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, I'll bet you fried a speedo sensor. Let the dealer pick up the tab on this one. Insist they install the "new" version. It's supppose to be less prone to this problem. Know one knows for sure what they changed. Look back through the archives, lots of discussion on this problem. Brad |
