| Author | Message | ||
     Fiberfav |
Hi all, I currently have a supertrapp exhaust fitted on a stock X1 1999. Is there anything I must (should) change to have the bike run smoothly? ECM? Air filter? Thanks | ||
| Buelliedan |
FiberFav, In answer to your question.... YES!!! They both need to be changed to optimize the free flowing exhaust. Geta Race ECM(make sure you have the TPS reset) put a K&N air filter in and gut your airbox. You should see an tremendous increase in your midrange torque and hp with this. | ||
| Fiberfav |
 Thanks for the great info Buelliedan I'll order the race ECM and look at the K&N | ||
| Blake |
Yeah, like this...  | ||
| Mbsween |
Hey All, Finally got a chance to test the new White bros setup. Methinks I've found the grail!! A 30 mile ride and no leaks (exhaust or oil)!!  . Oddly enough the pipe produces some condensation at startup. I couldn't figure where an air-cooled bike could leak water from. I managed to ride in temps from 50F - 25F, it worked well throughout. I did have a couple backfires, but nothing to speak of. Wierd thing was the low fuel light came on at 112 miles. This could be a fluke given that I've been doing a lot of idling etc while installing the system and riding in primarily 30ish weather. Quick question, I had the TPS reset when I added the Race ECM. Do I need to have it redone not that I have the WB exhaust on? Thanks Matt 01 X1 | ||
| Rempss |
Matt No TPS reset required. Jeff | ||
| Blake |
Matt: Water is a MAJOR product of combustion. When cold it condenses into liquid form before exiting your tail pipe. Normally once the engine warms up or if the ambient air is not too cold it exits in vaporous or gasseous form. | ||
| Dynarider |
Matt & Scott, they dont list the parts or the order they go in for the shifter mounting bolt. Even went to the dealer to see if they had a listing for the o-rings & they couldnt find it. Also if that bolt gets overtorqued at all it can break off. Dealer had to replace my primary gasket..covered under warranty so why should I do it..and they must have overtorqued that bolt. 50 miles after I get the bike back the bolt snapped off about 2-3" inside of the primary. Totally sucked, had to ride home in 3rd gear all the way. As for the White Bros exhaust it rox. I love mine, I run it with 16 discs & the optional endcap that has 2 small holes that open up by turning an allen bolt. Sounds great, looks great, & performs great. I wouldnt run it without any endcap at all.IMHO it sounds kinda crappy like that. | ||
| Mbsween |
Dyna/Rempss/Blake, Thanks for the replies. I think the trick to the no leak shifter bolt setup is shift bolt -> spacer -> shifter -> spacer ->Chin Fairing -> O-ring -> Spacer -> O-ring -> primary cover I also put some blue locktite on the end of the shifter bolt and went on the high side of the torque mark (29 ft-lbs). Somewhere along the way that fixed it. The water did throw me (just cuz it never did it with the stock setup). Do any of you WB people have a Dyno run? As soon as I can get a dry day, I'm headed down to the shop for one. Also what kind of mileage are the WB bikes getting? (i realize my mileage will vary  !) Thanks again for the info Matt | ||
| Dynarider |
No dyno runs for me yet, sorry. As for mileage that entirelt depends on the way I ride. Around town I tend to be pretty squidly with it & usually get around 42-43 mpg. If I am just on a nice leisurely ride out in the county I can get low 50's. | ||
| Skulley |
Anyone have a problem with the race header cracking at the tube spacer? three of the four corners on mine have 1/4" cracks. | ||
| Kevyn |
Hey Skulley, Ya, mine cracked right where the tubes merge with the collector at the collector weld. Wrote it off to thin walled tubing under stress...still haven't taken it to be rewelded...had a spare header wrapped with Thermo-Tec waiting...solid! Smells funky, looks grungy, sounds busy, runs right. Weld it, wrap it, fuggitaboutit!  | ||
| Fresh |
Hi all, Ok i underestimated the power of vibration. My header bracket broke off leaving a large hole in the header. I thought to have given it enough play but i blame my shot forward exhaust support for the damage. (rubber completely gone so no damping) I bought the new rubber today to fix the problem but on my way home the thing happened, it was allready too late and i should have left the bike home. But the sun was shining and i am weak so i could not resist to take the bike.   Also picked up my new exhaust today a Rino but i have to wait for the repair next week before install.  Since i like to upgrade my exhaust mounts (and like to receive it for free as per bulletin B-032, can someone pls. scan this bulletin and post it on the board or email it to me. My dealer likes to have the bulletin to ask Buell if the upgrade applies to me. he did not know anything about an extension till july 2002. Also, i have to repair the header, is anyone using the header support at all or should i skip it and instead of rewelding the broken off piece go for a smooth patch without bracket instead. I think it would be easier to have a small plate welded over the hole, but need to know if i need to keep the bracket. That's it, have fun over the weekend. I guess i have to dust my old Honda XL600 R off and take it for a ride tomorrow in the woods. Fresh  | ||
| Blake |
Just tell the lazy git to call Buell and ask for clarification. Unbelievable!! The dealer wants you to do his work for him!   | ||
| Fresh |
Blake, Well uhhh, I want to help him out a bit, i did not buy the bike with him, he is just supplying me parts and he is doing his best to help me out with other things. I have no complaints about this dealer, they are very helpfull. Just this updated mounting kit is confusing a lot of people. He did not get any information yet from Buell regarding the extention of the upgrade offer till july 2002 and likes to see the bulletin so he has something in his hands when he calls Buell. see it as ammo. I thought i could find the extension of bulletin B-032 easy since i found others but this one is only referenced as a number and the bulletin confirmation of the extension from Buell itself is not to be found. Blake what's your opinion about the header bracket, can it be skipped ??? Thx, Fresh | ||
| Blake |
Fresh: I appreciate your proactive attitude, I am much the same. However, for a Buell dealer to need/ask a customer to try to dig up an official company document that was never officially released to the public is ludicrous. Especially when a simple two minute phone call to BMC will clear up the whole thing. That kind of behavior tells me that the guy simply doesn't give a damn, he'd rather get rid of you than expend the meager effort to answer/solve your question. The fact that you even have to ask about the good will upgrade extension says a lot and it isn't good. My opinion is still out on the header bracket. The race header does not provide a mounting bracket for it though. I will say that the bracket needs to be one of the very LAST things that is attached/tightened. If it is in any way in a bind, the result will be similar to yours. It doesn't quite make sense to have a rigid support so close to the main rubber mounted hanger. Still, the support does permit motion up and down as the twisted metal tab rotates about its mount to the engine case. The one on my M2 was not connected when I bought it (used with Borla Muffler). I connected it and noticed a reduction in vibration in the right handgrip. On the way home from NY to TX last summer, the tab on the header broke. It didn't tear a hole in the pipe like yours did, just fractured the outboard portion of the tab. The bolt was tight enough that it held the broken header tab in place along with the spring that pulls on the muffler's front elbow. I have to sheepishly admit that when I bolted the support to the header, I did force it to get it in place. I think the header suppoert/tab is a very good thing. Maybe it could be a little more robustly mated to the header? There is a badwebr's home engineered beefy upgrade to the header support shown in the archives somewhere. It looks like a good way to go to me. What model/year is your bike. You have that info hidden in your profile. (Try unchecking the "hide" boxes next to the info you wish to share in your profile). | ||
| Fresh |
Blake, Thx. for your reply. Since i did not buy the bike with this dealer i will not push to hard to get things done. I like to build a relationship with the dealer of my choice and that takes time if you did not buy any bike at their place. I got other things in mind with my bike and if they perform with these things they can have my business. if not i'll take it elsewere and let them know also. On the header bracket: In hindsight i think it would have been better in my case to leave the header connection to the shock bracket off. My front old style exhaust rubber was gone so there was to much play at that end. I tightened the header bracket thinking the connection would be flexible enough to move with vibes. Well it was not flexible enough. Also i had a closer look at the cracked surface and it looks to me that most of the crack allready started way before today. No shiny fresh surface. hard to tell when, but a major part of the crack has a deep gold color so it must have been through some heat cycles to get this color. Only rode it 3 times since i tightened all down. Maybe i didn't notice it because the crack was to tight to create the exhaust leak sound. My old stock muffler is quite heavy, i think the race header is lighter and probably creates less energy when vibrating. Maybe this less energy can be handled by the header without a bracket for additional support. When i bought the bike i found out only one rear connection on exhaust (instead of the two) and the front mounting. The header bracket was loose. (no bolt) I figured to go by the book and took care of mounting and connecting all brackets as per manual. With the only mistake made that my front rubber was shot and hardly damping the vibrations. I could not get this rubber part from one dealer and felt lucky to get it from another, (i heard it is now an obsolete part)and wanted to install it upon my return home. I only found out something was wrong when i heard a sharp dry whining noise between 2500 and 3200 rpm on my way back from the shop today. First i thought something mechanical was wrong inside or maybe my primary tensioner needed adjustment. Anyway i drove the last 20 km home avoiding the sharp whining noise. When i got home i tried to figure out were the noise came from. I decided since the noise sounded like metal grinding together to check my header and exhaust for cracks. When i loosened up the header bracket i could see the cracks and i could completely remove the piece. i guess the noise came from the metal vibrating against eachother in the crack. I did a short testdrive to ensure the noise was gone and it was, cool sound btw, like a B52 bomber only louder First i was relieved it was nothing mechanical then i was pissed off because i could not install my new exhaust. I think i have a shop weld a little bit thicker SS patch generously over the hole and weld the bracket (after cropping off old header piece) on top of that in same location. When installing the header back i will adjust the connection piece for a good flat fit with the bracket after my new exhaust is satisfactory placed. Maybe fiddle with solid rubber spacers to allow a bit of play. If anyone has an other solution let me know pls. Ill browse through the archives tomorrow to see if i missed something. Tnx. Fresh   | ||
| Peter |
Fresh, Just out of curiosity, who's your dealer? PPiA | ||
| Johnc |
Fresh, what year and model is your bike? My 2000 M2 doesn't have any support bracket on the header pipe, only the front and rear supports on the muffler. | ||
| Fresh |
Johnc, I got a 1998 S1, i believe i read a post from Aaron mentioning later models dont have that bracket. That's why i asked if it was worth keeping it. I decided to keep it and build a more flexible connection to give it more play. I'll let you guys know if my idea works. Fresh | ||
| Henrik |
Supertrapp old style IDS muffler??: Can those of you that have experienced bracket and other modes of failure with the early style IDS mufflers (with the removable elbow piece) describe what broke and where? I found a new "old style" IDS at a reasonable price and will try to fit it onto the S2 using a Buell Race header, the updated front "Y" mount and a late model Supertrapp rear "saddle bracket". I will probably also try to mount a front header tie-bar. So I'm looking for possible failure modes to watch out for. Brackets snapping, bolts coming loose, end cap falling out etc. etc. TIA Henrik | ||
| Orngm2 |
has anyone tries to mount a wileyco muffler, model wc-503, using the updated front muffler bracket? i am trying and it seems the elbow pipe will not fit in the "Y" of the bracket... it seems too wide? any suggestions? this model is supposed to work on my bike. thanx | ||
| Road_Thing |
Henrik: Check my posts on this thread from Feb 5 2001. I experienced failures of the rear mount (on the muffler) and the front mount (on the elbow). The rubber mount that I made held up fine, it was still solid after 4,000 miles when I sold the bike. Hope this helps. r-t | ||
| Henrik |
Yes, thank you Road Thing. I saw your muffler rubber strap mount. Looked like a good option. I also found out about the inlet pipe breaking off (Jim4, Al, Jerome) and the front and rear brackets failing. Al; did you ever try your steel donut and "hat" reinforcement of the inlet pipe? Henrik | ||
| Kevyn |
Henrik, Presently, my S2 is using the old style extternal disc ST attached to the race header with the new 'Y' bracket...seems to be holding out. No sign of breakage/leakage anywhere on any welds. The original rear strap 'went away' and is replaced with a more robust strap that is cushioned with the rubber. So far, so good. Definately a pre-ride inspection point! Ever hear of green loc-tite?  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
All, Another Exhaust Nut Warning! I recently removed my header so I could remove the cam cover. I reinstalled it with new exhaust gaskets, and torqued the nuts to the recommended 6-8 ft lbs (I used 7'lb). I rode about 50 or so miles and rechecked them yesterday. WERE THEY EVER LOSE!!!!! I bet they were less than 2 or 3 ' lb. Moral of story "Check your nuts" expecially after an r&r of the header and gaskets. Brad (I'm gonna check them again in about 50 miles) | ||
| Buelliedan |
Brad, I think that happens to eveybody when you install new exhaust gaskets. far as I can tell as you ride the vibrations help to compress the new gaskets down, My experiences have shown that after about 4 tighten, ride, tighten sequences the gaskets have pretty much "set" and will not loosen up any more after that. dan | ||
| Pj1 |
OrngM2, I just recently installed the same muffler on my 20001 M2 and had the same problem. All that I did was to compress the rubber in the "Y" mount with a pair robo-grip pliers and then it slid right in. PJ | ||
| Psychobueller |
Just got the "New-Style" Supertrapp IDS installed on both of our M2s. This pipe looks like it will last forever. The mounting system is extremely beefy, and includes 2 rear mounting straps that close with pinch-bolts, much like the D&D. Looks massive and industrial. They sound awesome, and I think the bikes feel even better than they did before. Took them out on a shakedown run yesterday, and nothing fell off yet, so I guess that's good. For everyone, I really recommend upgrading your front muffler to the 2001-spec Y-mount. Your dealer will do it free under service bulletin B-032. It pisses me off to hear about the trouble some dealers give Buellers. Mine has been great about everything. | ||
| Ccryder |
OrangeM2: If you have the correct slip-on it will mount with either bracket. On the new one you may need to slide the rubber donuts in board/ out board to adjust for the bracket. A little Armor-all or wheel dressing lets those donuts move where you need them. If the bracket is too wide to slip between the "Y" then you don't have the correct slip-on or the front bracket is not to spec. Mike J. did you have any problems with yours?? Neil S. |
