| Author | Message | ||
     Buellzebub |
thanks Pammy, i wonder how much more he could get with some bottom end work, windage tray, better scavenging etc. excuse me if this was stated before, what year of engine did he start with? | ||
| Buellzebub |
oops double post | ||
| M2blue |
I am having T storm heads installed on my 97 cyclone I like the low end power of the stock cam but i am considering the Andrews N2. Has anyone used this cam Thanks m2blue | ||
| Bluzm2 |
M2, With a nickname like that you better be a Blues fan! Brad | ||
| Court |
Is it just me, or is anyone else feeling a twinge of fear as Aaron Wilson drive cross country with an EMPTY pickup truck? There are moments where you just KNOW a story is in the works. I'll get the facts, get them properly embellished and relate whatever I hear! Court | ||
| Court |
snip | ||
| Blake |
M5Blue: I cannot comment on the N2's. Just that you should aim for a higher lift with less overlap to maintain your low end and midrange. | ||
| Jeffsd |
Pammy, sounds like Smadd has a nice engine. Have you ever done that(or similar) setup on a fuel injected bike? I was just wondering about the numbers. I called your shop a couple of weeks ago to get info about a HD/Buell shop on your side on the country. You weren't in so I spoke to the guy who answered the phone. I can't remember his name, but he said that he had heard good things about Gainsville Buell. I called Gainsville Buell and spoke to Matt. I explained everything to him (rod knock, good will warranty for parts, cross country move, etc.)and will probably drop off my bike with him as soon as I get moved to GA. Since Buell is covering parts, I'll let Matt do the engine, then give it a few months and have you work over the top end. I'll give you a call as the time gets a little closer. Thanks, Jeff | ||
| M2blue |
Blake, Thanks for the reply on the N2. I am waiting for the results from a computer simulation. fb | ||
| Moderator |
Court... errr... topic police. Fine pending...  | ||
| S2no1 |
Alright, What's with the SNIP. I missed something now didn't I. Arvel | ||
| Blake |
Just a double post. | ||
| Pammy |
Jeff, Matt is great. I like dealing with Gainesville. It has gone through a few changes since Ray died but it is still one of the best shops in my opinion. | ||
| Fresh |
Now i can really join the club,  After giving my S1 a good beating to test it out a bit i discovered a bit of oil deposited on the starter. It came from one of the rockerbox gaskets of the rear cyl. location close to bolt far aft on right side. Well i warmed up the engine carefully as always but i guess high speed on freeway for long periods caused this weakness to come out. Not looking forward to replace, but it needs to be done. Just have to find the time. I finally got the updated prim. chain tensioner and updated retend plate, so i better wait with the operation untill i get the rockerbox gaskets too. Are the new metal ones the gaskets to go for or should i order original and take all precautions during install. Any good/bad experiences with the updated gaskets ??? and are there other things to check out while the r.box is off. (measuring play etc.) Do you guys advise to do both cylinders although the front cyl. shows no leakage, or just order two sets and leave the front cyl. alone for now ?? I will check the previous messages on this subject for help/tips with installation, i'm glad this board exists. If i run into problems i'll let you know. Regards, Fresh | ||
| Reepicheep |
Fresh... Get the new metal ones. Both the rocker box replacement and the primary chain tensioner are pretty straightforward. When you do the chain tensioner, have some smaller dowel rods you can stick in the holes in the primary case to hold the gasket in place while you slide the primary cover right over the dowels. You can then remove the dowels one at a time and replace them with the appropriate bolts. You may also want to get a little gasket remover to get the old primary gasket off. The stuff I found came in a spray can... spray it into a small cup and put it on with a brush. That stuff eats paint like nobodies business. For both jobs, I think removing the old gasket material is the hardest part of the job. Plenty of tips for both job if you do a search on this board. And you are only a charter member of "the club". You won't be a full member until you update your front exhaust hanger. If you want to be a "gold level" member, wait until you bust an exhaust header stud flush in the head before replacing the front hanger  . Breaking off the easyout in aforementioned sheared stud optional.  | ||
| Fresh |
Reep, Yep, i read about a lot of the other fun that can happen.  I always spray WD40 the night before an operation if any bolt or nut looks even a bit corroded or if it is in any of those places you can expect them to be fused to their threads for some reason, specially near or on cylinders. Makes the bike smell nice too. HeHeHe BTW, i just discovered that i dont have a bolt connecting the header tiebar to the bike. The bracket is there but bolt is gone, Oh Oh . Also i saw that at the rear the exhaust is only connected by 1 muffler support, the other one is hanging loose, no bolt. Hmmmm, I still got stock exhaust on my 1998 S1. Better buy some bolts and washers too. Regards, Fresh  | ||
| Fresh |
Hi all, The rockerbox gasket is in and holding ok, did 350 km today no leaks. It was not too hard, only had to quesstemate the torque on two bolts i could not reach with my torque wrench. For statistics, my old paper gasket had elongated boltholes too, looked like it was walking around a bit and torn apart at the rear bolthole., sorry no pics was in a hurry to install new one. When i opened the box, i noticed that only one umbrella valve was there, in my manual it says two. Do i mis one or what ?, the umbrella valve i have is on the intake side. I did not see if any was installed on the exhaust side, and no plastic pieces either, looks like it was not in there at all. Pls. advice if i need to install one. Thx, Fresh | ||
| Sportyeric |
One umbrella valve per cylinder, Fresh. | ||
| Ara |
Fresh, I suggest stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers on those exhaust applications. | ||
| Fresh |
Sporty, Ara, Umbrella valve. must be a misprint in my manual then, thx. Exhaust, i got temporary 8.8 bolts, waiting for correct parts to arrive and updated exhaust bracket. Bike runs fine. Yippeeee Fresh | ||
| Rempss |
If using stainless steel, make sure to use antisieze when using nylock nuts or they soon become one piece. Actually a good idea to use it with all stainless/stainless connections. Also remember standard stainless bolts are only slightly stonger than grade 2 steel. Carefull where you use them. ARP makes grade 8+ bolts if needed in US sizes. Metrics have thier own grade, 70/80, low/medium strength. Jeff | ||
| Jmartz |
Mikej: Lets move over here to comply with the topic of discussion. On a diffrent note, I've got this friend with an M2 who is concerened with loosing the formidable low end these motors provide. I have been unable to convince him that once modified with hotter cams the low end can be recovered with compression increases and concomitant timing alterations. The modified motor will produce more power and torque at all rpm values. My point is to bring to light that a modified Thunderstorm motor with Nallin's new jugs and stage 2 headwork producing 105 HP and 85 lbs. of torque will not make your S2 feel bad or weaker, in fact I'm pretty sure it will have better response throughout the range in spite of its lower weight crankshaft. Consider those who own S3's, they never seem to mention a lack of torque or power. There are exceptions like Jose Q, but his mods were limited to a cam change, he could have opted for the full "recipie". Jose | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Jeff, Good call on the SS bolts. I picked up some SS bolts and nuts for my Boss pipe. Just for grins i asked the hardware store guy what grade they were. He said he thought they were 5's but would check. He called me AT HOME the next day and said he thought I should know they were only rated at a grade 2!!!! Another good reason to support your local corner hardware store. They have the neat odd ball stuff and care about their customers. Needless to say, the stainless came out and plain old 5's went in. Brad | ||
| Mikej |
Unless something is figured or done-up wrong, the bigger-bore hop-ups to these engines simply (relative term there) raise the graph, the starting 2500-3000rpm range is usually the same or higher starting point from what I've seen posted and in person. Way down in the deepest darkest regions of my brain I still have a few ideas of applying some old circle-boat technology to a v-twin. Don't know how it would hold up on the street though, but for a few laps down the salt it would maybe do well. The heavier flywheel (here it comes, as the true engine guys/gals are about to bang their heads on a table) seems to be a little easier on components, mellower while distance cruising and thumping around town and running a steady open road. Anyway, I'm still several tens of thousands of miles from needing a rebuild on the S2, just thinking ahead some. And then there is the old hotrodder in me that is still thinking of the dual-carb stuff. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Mike, Wouldn't you rather build up your M2 into a fire breathing monster and just leave the S2 as is? I now have 2 bad to the bones Fuellies when I need to be a Hooligan and my S2 for all those times when I just want to go riding!  | ||
| Mikej |
Dan, What I'm thinking of is getting the S2 turned into an all-rounder. Pep for riding solo, power for riding two-up and packed for a camping trip, terrain/distance irrelevant. If the job situation and salary stabilize some and school smooths out some I do have side-thoughts of S1-izing the M2 a bit. Maybe sort of set the M2 up as a solo track bike, dump the aux lights and Ventura rack, leave the alarm on for city runs, change out the pegs and handlebars similar to Blakes M2, maybe go to a narrow tank (unless I swap it off on something). I'm really curious what Ron Dickey's S2 has in it. Seemed to be well sorted in Breckenridge. But not sure if he's too open with the details since that's his business. Thinking about it, there sure is a bunch of talent to choose from when building up an engine. What I'll probably most likely end up doing is to get the money set aside, write up my goals and desires and intended use of the bike, then will backstep into a setup and configuration to meet those goals and desires. I don't really need to top 100mph unless it's on a track or the flats, so top end running will be figured at 95mph or so over the Rockies someplace like between Missoula and Bozeman. Top end sprints and shorter runs should be able to hold 130mph at weight regardless of wind or incline. Longevity and maintenance will be a primary driver, don't want a race engine with the frequent rebuilds, but will give up some life length. Anyway, it's just thoughts at this point. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Mike, I am pretty sure Dickeys bike was nothing more than the Axtell 88ci kit and a KT exhaust. Of course all the little ignition tunings, carb tweaks and stuff to go with it. Well sorted bike but I still smoked his butt with my S3!!!  | ||
| Buelliedan |
PS, Having gotten to know Ron in CO I am pretty sure he has a good enough sense of humor not to kill me over that last comment!!!  | ||
| Aaron |
STD heads & Red Shift 585 cams | ||
| Axtell |
Aaron is right---engine has carrillo rods in case I want to dyno---never did!! It is a fun bike--might be for sale??--make a quick way to get in the 150 club. I don't want to pick on anybody BUT the remark about flywheel weight is very misleading and in the way stated dead wrong. Also I have found the late model oil pumps to be junk and the root of many problems. Ron |
