| Author | Message | ||
     Lsr_Bbs |
Blake, the O2 sensors we use are not wideband, therefore the voltage values supplied are not linear - it's a compressed scale around stoich (hence, less ideal for tuning as you need to be near stoich to interpret the values). However, for what I'm thinking (which would be a simple intake leak warning), when a/f drops to 12:1 or less (for arguments sake), it'd close the circuit that would light the check engine light (which does nothing on my carb conversion). Would be a useful doo-dad if easily and cheaply constructable. ========== A properly jetted bike does not vary *THAT* much between the differing circuits to trip this...especially an a/f value in the 12:1 to 11:1 range...which is beginning of melt a piston lean. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Aaron |
I think you're confused about rich and lean. Stoich is 14.7:1. Max power is richer than that, about 13:1. 12:1 is richer yet. 11:1 is really rich. | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Oops, my bad...what I get for playing while in a meeting - I'm paying attention, I swear  Should have been more like 15.5-16.5+ for lean. Thanks Aaron. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Bigun283 |
Just got my new hsr42 just wanted to know what kind of setups you guys are running.( jet sizes, needles, that stuff) | ||
| Shotgun |
Just replaced the stock idle mixture adjustment screw on my 2001 M2 with the knurled model that allows easy adustments. Question, how come the engine seems to idle the same at 1/2 turn open or 3.0 turns open now? What did I do? | ||
| Blake |
Beats me. Anyone else know? | ||
| Jerome |
Broken end tip on the screw ??!! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Does it have a different taper? | ||
| Shotgun |
Yeah, the Creative Cycle knurled idle adjustment screw is a little longer (.050-.060) and more pointy. But it aint broke off. I left it 2.25 turns out and took it for a 100 mile spin and Buella is happy, so I am happy. Stopped twice and dialed it in and out and didn't see any difference. I did change out the float pivot pin with an undersized drill bit (-.009), and had to re-adjust the float tang, but bought a new pivot pin for $2 and will readjust it at the first opportunity. A matter of too much superglue gumming up the original float pin (don't ask). Anyhoo, thanks for your input. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Steve, Glad it's working out. A longer, more "pointy" needle should provide more precise adjustment. You should have to turn it more to get the same effect as a shorter needle with a smaller degree of taper. Not a bad isean really, if the needle should vibrate out a bit, it will still be pretty close! If I'm way off here, Aaron will chime in and set us both straight. Brad | ||
| Aaron |
oh man, am I that bad? | ||
| Blake |
No! You're that good! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Yeah,,, what Blake said! | ||
| Aaron |
thanks ... but I do have this terrible habit of going around contradicting what people say. I did manage to bite my tongue on that post the other day that suggested running your bike a few seconds after draining the oil. oops. | ||
| Steveb |
Aaron, Thanks for finally mentioning that. I'll bet a lot of us bit our tongues on that one, and it made me feel a bit bad not chirping in. One problem I see is that an individual may use a technique for years with no problem, but trying to communicate that to another by the written word is a very chancy thing. Although I would not do what was suggested, I cannot fault the poster for his technique. Some guys have been wrenching for years and years, and some might be doing their first ever oil change, so you don't know who is taking your advice. Might I suggest you post your method of purging the oil system on the general discussion board to refresh the subject? Perhaps you could add your reason/s for a purge, and whether your decision is based on mechanical or theoretical data. Further off topic, sorry Blake -- I figured that post had the tacit approval of Blake and Aaron, so I didn't post. That thinking places a lot of responsibility on you two, which isn't fair. I haven't mentioned many other reliable posters, you know who you are, and thanks to all for time you spend here to make valuable posts. Steve B | ||
| M2me |
I had some odd drivability problems with my 2001 M2 last year. It would seem to be running out of gas at highway speeds. Surging and sputtering. A couple of times it actually died if I were to get off the freeway or have to stop/slow down on the highway. I would then switch it to reserve even though the tank was sometimes more than half full. Then I could restart and continue on until the next gas station. It only did this when it was cold. That is, when the air was cold (not the bike) around 55 degrees or less. Could this be a jetting problem? The bike is completely stock. Could it be the tank vent? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Elteem2 |
M2Me - When it starts to act up, pop open the fuel cap lever to loosen it up and break the seal. If it smooths out within a couple of seconds, the tank vent isn't venting so you're getting a vacuum in the tank. Mine was doing the same thing, but not for the mechanics, so they replaced the rollover valve. It didn't help, so I put a hole in the vent line. No problems since. LT | ||
| Roadrunr |
M2me-LT is right, I have a bud with a 2001 M2 and his was doing the same thing so he whacked off the vent hose just below the tank and BE BAAAM! All better. | ||
| M2me |
Thanks the info. I will take a look at the tank vent line and see if it is pinched. I was sort of suspecting that it might the vent. | ||
| Blake |
M2me: Rather than "poke a hole" or "whack off" your vent line, and considering that gasoline on your pants is not so good a situation, I'd instead recommend fitting a new vent hose or simply alleviating the offending restriction (overzealous tie wrap?). | ||
| M2me |
Blake, That's my plan. Check the hose for any obvious signs of pinching and then decide if I can fix it by removing tie wraps or if it would be easier to just run a new vent hose. I don't want to do anything until it warms up here in Minnesota. The bike is sitting in an unheated garage beneath a motorcycle cover right now. | ||
| Oldman |
the one thing i was told was the tube inside the tank is longer than it should be. haven't had the pet cock outside of the tank yet so i don't know for sure. can you reply back on that blake. thanks. | ||
| Blake |
Oldman: Yes, that relates to greater than advertised reserve capacity. | ||
| Eightyeight |
Question to those of you running a big bore engine. I have built an engine using the 3 13/16 cylinders. Compression is 10 to 1. Heads are ported with big valves. SE .536 lift cams. I am going to run a Mikuni 42 carb. Could those of you with a similar setup please advise as the the carb jetting you are running? | ||
| Eightyeight |
What, you all have little ones? Come on, you guys with big ones can fess up with your carb jetting. | ||
| Bjack |
Cold and snowy here in Northwest Missouri today so I decided to change the jets in my new (to me) Y2k M2. Everything was going fine until I got to the last screw holding the bowl on. The screw is stripped and I wasn't able to get it out. Does anyone have any advice on how to get the screw out without damaging the bowl or carb body? Thanks | ||
| Blake |
BJack: A good pair of 6" vice grips should do the trick. Using the vice grips in a wrench type orientation, not like a screw driver, clamp down HARD on the screw head with the very tip of the vice grip's jaws, then break the stuck screw. has never failed for me. Or cut off the screw head with a dremel? | ||
| Skulley |
m2me, I had some simular symptoms, turnd out to be a bad kickstand switch. Not sure if this will help here. | ||
| Sparky |
M2me, I had the same symptoms but strangely only when it was raining. So I went about waterproofing the ignition system, but the real reason was a defective fuel tank vent valve. When you remove the valve try forcing air through it with the valve vertical, air should pass. Turn the valve on its side and air should be blocked. These tests should repeat. My broken one would be intermittent while vertical. This may or not be your problem, but it should probably be checked. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Meandmym2 |
Help, For some reason my 2000 M2 has deceided that it no longer wants to idle at all. Since this will be the first time I had to put a wrench on her can someone help me figure out what is wrong. It runs fine underway, but if i let it slow down it stalls out. both plugs are getting spark and it will run with the choke out but if i let it warm up and push the choke all the way in it stalls. thanks for the time Dan dvolz@kibbe.com |
