| Author | Message | ||
     Aaron |
Well, what I'm getting at is your ignition needs will vary depending how much cylinder pressure you're generating, how high you want to twist it, and the effectiveness of your overlap event. Sounds like Red Shift 567's and a compression ratio in the range of 10:1 to 10.5:1? That should be a good running setup. Good broad powerband and streetable. I'm thinking about the same basic package for my wife's S1 in fact. When I do it, though, I'm going to at least try it with the stock ignition stuff. Based on my testing (128 pulls one day with a fancy adjustable ignition & hot-dog coil), right now at 10.5:1 with stock cams, the factory ignition pieces aren't really constraining the motor. In fact, the stock pieces are incredibly well matched to a stockish motor. Will that setup move things enough that the stock ignition pieces become a problem? I'm not at all sure it will. Maybe, but it's not really a huge difference in terms of cylinder pressure, overlap, or rpm. In terms of what to go with, though, there are a lot of choices. I've tried the Buell race kit module, the SE adjustable/Dyna 2000 (both, but they're the same thing), the Crane HI-4, and the V-Thunder programmable setup. The V-Thunder is definitely the most full featured, especially if you get the software and cable. I had reliability problems with it, but maybe that's just me. The SE/Dyna 2000 is nice, too, but it only has 4 curves and 4 rev limits (my S1 likes curve 4 FWIW). I'm not overly fond of the Crane, it seems like it's curves are too quick, but it does have a lot of adjustability/resolution in it's rev limit. The race kit module has the same curve & rev limit as the stock piece (despite their advertising which leads you to believe it raises the rev limit), although it loses the slight retard above 6200rpm. It doesn't support single fire, if that's important to you (and it might be if you have an effective overlap event). All of these modules work with the stock pickup plate. Some single fire modules use a special rotor cup and pickup plate, though. Keep in mind that an adjustable module will require some dyno time to get it dialed in. Otherwise you're just guessing, IMO. With respect to coils, there are a couple of single fire coils out now that are the same size, or close to the same size, as the stock piece, which simplifies mounting. Check Crane and Dyna. Unless you're generating a whole bunch of cylinder pressure, though, don't look for a hot coil to bring a bunch to the party. It may bring nothing. Best of luck. AW | ||
| Bjack |
I recently purchased a Y2K M2 with 1500 miles on it. I haven't had the chance to ride much yet due to the weather, but in doing some research I found a Buell Service Bulletin (B-029) that seems to apply. According to the Bulletin, 2000 1/2 M2's were shipped with different plugs (10R12), new ignition module, revised heads with engine temp sensor location, addition of ET sensor and revised carb with 195 main jet. I've checked the plugs and ignition module and my M2 was not shipped with these changes. Can anyone tell me the effect of these changes and whether I need to make these changes or if I'll be ok as is. Thanks. | ||
| Loki |
Bjack, Just drop the 10R12 plugs in the girl. The E(ngine) T(emp) sensor requires the use of the later ignition module. This is for precluding the dreaded knock syndrome. Other than that the modules are the same. As for the carb you have a 200 main in it. Skip the Thunderjet and do the normal mods to the carb if you want. The 195 main, 40 slow, and N65C needle. A 190 main will be somewhat to lean, the 200 somewhat rich. I have a a/f guage on my M-Deuce and run a 195/40/N65C carb set-up. The girl runs just a hair rich in hot weather and nuts on between 70-80 degrees. Loki | ||
| Jssport |
More elecrical capacity ? I was at the V-Twin Expo in Cincinnati this last weekend (thanks to Darrell Bassani) and there was a local guy who makes voltage regulators and rewinds stators for big twins. I asked him about higher output windings for the XL's and explained to him they are easily overloaded. He said he could wind an extra layer around each stator post but he would need to bring the compensator sporcket in to retain the same line with the clutch while taking in magnets 3/16 outward. I've only had my sprocket nut off once but I believe the sprocket is attached to the rotating magnet shell. Any ideas? Jim S | ||
| Bjack |
Loki, Thanks for the help. On the slow jet, should it be 40 or 45? I noticed that the tips under the carb discussion talk about a 45 slow jet and was just wondering which would be right. Thanks again. Bjack | ||
| Loki |
Bjack, sorry 'bout that it should be the 45 - I have not shimmed my needle as of yet. She runs real smooth at this point. So much so I can take the idle down to 800 revs when it is warmed up. The lope sounds kinda cool through a D-Boss muff. Loki | ||
| Peter |
Jssport, The sprocket unbolts from the rotor. PPiA | ||
| Raticalbuell |
Aaron, thanx for the info it was very helpful. Sorry it took so long to get back | ||
| Chuck |
Hey All, does anyone know which NGK plug most closely "matches" the HD brand 10R12  | ||
| Hans |
Chuck: look at the header of this thread. The NGK DPR 9EA-9. Hans. | ||
| Chuck |
Thankyou, Hans. I wasn't sure if NGK's "cool" plug was the same as HD's "cool" plug. | ||
| Hans |
Chuck, elsewhere I have safed: DCPR 9EA 9. Slightly different but that has only to do with the hexagonal which can be metric or in inch. Yes, the "medium" one was for people who think that somewhere in between the old and the new one would be better. Hans. | ||
| Jst |
I need the help of the brain trust. I'm trying to find out if what I have in my hand is really a race ECM of if someone is bsing me. It's marked as follows: BFIUSO stamped on the body N0306.K 98209 on a sticker US06GC0B0 is on a yellow and white sticker I thought all race ECMs were stamped "for off road use only" or some such thing. Does any one have a race ECM they can check? Thanks JT | ||
| Rempss |
JT, You have a 1999 stock ECM. A 2000+ will be marked BFIUS1. A race wil be marked "FOR RACE USE ONLY". Jeff | ||
| Ccryder |
JT: This is what one of my race ECMs looks like:  Look at the top and you can see the "For Race Use Only". Neil S. | ||
| Blake |
JT: According to your profile, you own a '99 M2. Are you instead meaning to say a race "ignition module"? | ||
| Chrism |
Gentlemaen, quick question. What does the VOES do? Is it somehow tied into the ignition? Possibly what instigates the topend retard? | ||
| Jst |
Blake, Yeper I do own a '99 Em Too with a race ignition module. The ECM is one that came in a box of parts from a former Buell owner. I knew I was getting BSed. | ||
| Aaron |
Chris: it advances the timing when vacuum is high. | ||
| Buellsht |
does anyone know why the timing on the m2 world model is set at a lower rpm 950-1050 compaired to the 1150-1250 for the california model. | ||
| Chrism |
Aaron, thanks. Is there a chart relating advance curve to vacuum? Do you happen to know how much timing gets put in/pulled out? | ||
| Aaron |
No, sorry, I have no information on curves or VOES advance. | ||
| Blake |
Chrism: Further to what Aaron said... I pulled this from Buell's online S1 manual (no longer online unfortunately).
| ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
[Quote] Chrism: Further to what Aaron said... I pulled this from Buell's online S1 manual (no longer online unfortunately). [Unquote] Oh yes it is.................. it can be found at http://ukbeg.com/ in the downloads section! Glad to help ;-) Steve steve@ukbeg.com | ||
| Skulley |
Anyone have info on timing an X1? I cannot seem to find anything other than static timing in the service manual. Thought it was mentioned to retard 4 deg. for more power or was that for carb bikes? | ||
| Chrism |
Thank you Steve, Blake and Aaron. I suspect there may be something wrong with mine. If you increase your VE and don't change the carb, then even at WOT one might still show a level of vacuum that would keep the switch in the retarded curve. That doesn't sound right. At WOT at some point vacuum should drop off enough to change the ignition curve. I'm trying to figure why torque falls off 20flbs above 5k. I've got to get a scanner so I can post these dyno and A/F curves. Thanks again. | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Skulley: You don't want to do anything but static time the DDFI bikes. The DDFI works on lots of assumptions, and timing is one of them. Some have retarded/advanced timing on DDFI bikes w/ no problems, some have had major driveability issues. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Aaron |
Chris: I'd optimize the timing for top end power and if you still have a drop-off above 5K, look elsewhere. Torque falls off when you can't get a good cyl fill anymore, too. | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Chrism, Does this help at all? I remember sometime ago at Crane's website, that there was a plot of advanced and retarded etc... ignition curves along with an explaination of how it all worked. IIRC, there was also discussion about using/not using a VOES. Sorry I don't have the URL, but it was in a downloadable pdf manual for the Crane Hi8e (??) ignition box. It may help explain things better? I aren't an expert myself. Steve steve@ukbeg.com htto://ukbeg.com/ | ||
| Chrism |
Thanks again. |
