| Author | Message | ||
     Ccryder |
Al: Installation of those clamps is like one of those puzzles where try and get one ring off the two horse shoes. Sawzall or flame wrench are my solutions ;+}. Maybe when the barrels are removed, you stand on one foot, and it is a Blue Moon........... Aw it's time for lunch Neil S. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Thanks much Neil, great shots....how the heck did they get those bands in there? Looks like they probably removed the t-bolt by expanding the T loop and rotating the T thru 90 degrees to remove the bolt, flattened the loop, fed it thru, and reversed those operations...there are some subtle bends still left in the metal loop that would support that theory. Those bands will probably fail at some point, after several installs. But they are cheap from NAPA ( http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15617594&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid= ) Brad, Yea, I got the thick straps..I bought 2 at $15 each, which is ridiculous. Thicker is not the answer. They are harder to install and squish the muffler unevenly, and really don't clamp all that well. Crappy design, IMHO. That Supertrapp rear clamp is a very good design, it looks to me like it will hold up well because it has two rear straps and supports the muffler from rocking at the rear. I'd bet that even the old supertrapps that failed at the front inlet would be much less likely to fail there with the rear kept from rocking laterally and some degree of cantilever support. I was first going to duplicate that setup but without having to use the stock Z bracket, but I think it would be a bear to install, so I'll just clone theirs. Al | ||
| Buellzebub |
muffler band puzzle easy solution grasshopper! the windows where the bands go through are releaved on the surface facing the muffler... i think, could be wrong. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
I just purchased a new 2001 x1 today and i want to start researching what is the best exhaust system or one of the best systems to put on the bike. As of right now i know very little about my bike besides the general information. I already talked to the dealership that i am going to be taking my bike to and they don't know a whole lot about the buells because they just started selling them a year ago. Also is it best to get new headers when you get a new exhaust or will the stock headers be all right. I don't wnat to get an exhaust that I will be unhappy with. I'm looking for the best in performance and sound. Or is the race kit the best thing i can get. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Hey Neil, If you don't mind, Could you please take another shot from the side of your bike, about like this photo (maybe slightly further away, and dead straight sideways):  I'm trying to figure out how much further forward I can stretch the bracket without hitting the engine or blocking the primary cover. If it isn't too much trouble, could you measure the length of that bracket? Are the slots undercut that much as buellzebub suggested? Doesn't look like it in the pictures, hard to tell. But that clamp doesn't look like any I've got or seen. The relief for the T bolt is way more than the 5-Star Mfg and Breeze MgF T-bolt clamps I have, and more than the NAPA Balkamp one in the link above. I think they may be customs for Supertrapp to allow for t-bolt removal. Anyone know any different? Here's my bracket. Wish I had a stereo lith machine...  Al | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Al, The slots on mine are no where near big enough to get that clamp through w/ the Tbolt there. I'll get your pictures and measurements at lunch (and a mfgr. name from the clamps). Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Al...    Bracket is exactly 2 1/2" inches long. This is stamped on the T-Bolt Clamps: Clampco Wadsworth, Ohio USA 951HY-0450 H01 If that's of any use to you. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Neil, Excellent! Perfect shots! Thanks much, this gives me all the info I need. Al | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Just found Clampco, theirs ARE different. See http://www.clampco.com/band.htm The one on the far right is the one we need, the one on the far left is the way everyone elses are. And the difference is......a removeable T-bolt! The part number shown isn't on their website that I could find, I've sent them email to find out how to procure them for when they fail. I'm thinking that a new front bracket and clamp for the race header shoe is needed as well, the clamp likes to slide off the stock shoe, a new single tab shoe with a slot for the clamp would be a good thing to have. Al | ||
| Sparky |
Looking at Neil's 1/30 bottom pic, I'm guessing that you should be able to give the T-bolt a 90 deg twist and slip it out of the band's slot. Then the loop part should be able to be squeezed thru the slots in the bracket. The bracket looks like a rugged design. I hope it proves out in the field. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Al, Are you going to fab a few of your nifty brackets? If you are, count me in! As you stated earlier, the rear bracket on the SS pipe is not the best. Kind of klugey in fact. I like the look of the bracket you are working on. Brad | ||
| Skulley |
Al, How about if you make your bracket slots larger to accept the t-bolt clamp. making the slot taller twards the mounting hole just enough to slid in the clamp. I tried to draw you a pict in paint but it wont work. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Brad, Clamp is for Donn. He is working with Stainless Specialties and another pipe bender place (I think)to make an entire system. I'll build a prototype and use it with the muffler I just got, revise it in a second prototype if necessary. I haven't yet approached a shop that can use my CAD file for their CAM sheet metal programming, so I have zero cost info (yet). First proto will be one I'll hack up in our proto shop. I talked to Clampco today, sample clamps are on the way. So stay tuned, Donn or I will update you later. Al | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Al, Thanks for the info. I take it this is for Donn's "custom" race header slip on. If you need a "mule" to test the standard SS Boss slip on, give me a shout. I have a M2 that would be happy to be a guinea pig. Brad | ||
| Nemo |
After a week with the new D&D exhaust on my 99 M2 I just have to say awesome.... Sounds great, installs with no problems, looks good, access to primary drain no problem. I polished the black paint off the stainless steel headers. Now the headers are turning that golden color. Only problem I can see is that the rear tire bill just went up. But thats ok the front tire bill just went down. | ||
| Kahuna |
Fellow Buelligans! Anyone know if the Race Header will discolor with time? I got the Millennium X1 and wonder if I should keep those silver ceramic headers on or not? Advice would appreciated. -Kahuna Rob | ||
| Bluezhawg |
Hello all, The stainless clamps pictured can be purchased at any industrial hydraulics supply house.I use them for the intake on my Shovelhead and on many applications at work.They provide a very strong radial pressure that does not pinch the material being clamped.These clamps range in size from 1 inch to 12 inches in diameter.Good luck and the system looks great. | ||
| Blake |
Kahuna Rob: Probably. If that is something you want to avoid, it might be best to have your race header coated. | ||
| Blastin |
So what's the consensus on the D+D exhaust systems? I'm looking at the D+D Blast pipe, so comparisons aren't possible. What I'm looking for is generalities about the quality and durability of the product. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Jerry | ||
| Kahuna |
Anyone have experience with the V&H slip-on? It seems to have only one hinge that may not fit the updated "Y" header support mount? I think I've finally decided, I'm going with the race ECM, Pro-series Air cleaner, stock ciramic header and V&H slip-on. Cheers, -Kahuna Rob V&H Install Illustration:  | ||
| Ccryder |
Rob: It will fit the updated "Y" header support. The 2 rubber donuts will move to adjust for the different widths. You should use a spacer, supplied with the Y support, that is meant to go between the 2 flanges on the stock exhaust. If you need to, I lubed my donuts with Armor-All and they will slide in and out.......... well er, you get the point. This weekend I was installing the Supertrap IDS and it was a very easy instal on my 00' X-3. Either S-T got their jigs and fixture down right, or my bike is just at nominal. Maybe it's time for some more picts. All polished and such, hmmm. Time4Home Neil S. | ||
| Cal |
Want to put a Super Trapp on my 99M2 with a race kit header does anybody know what model/part number to use to make this work. Thanks. Cal PBR1893@aol | ||
| Jerome |
Cal : the only way to fit a SuperTrapp to the race header is to use the old-style SuperTrapp. The new one has a bent front tube welded to the muffler so it cannot fit straight to the race header without serious sawing, welding, etc... I don't know if you can still find the old-style brand-new, as it was "recalled" by SuperTrapp due to a tendancy of sawing itself at the front tube / muffler junction. | ||
| Rippin |
I sure wish Staintune made a TWIN HIGH PIPE kit for Buells! Just installed a set on my buds Slumperhawk and man all I can say is "that *@$#er rocks". I think that is the best built system I have ever put on. The pipe clamps are twice as thick as everyone elses I've seen and they're polished and laser etched to boot. Quality and first class. Went on sweet. I would pay bucks for that system. He paid $799 I would pay more. I wouldn't even care if it made a little less hp. I want one. Ryan | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Al, After mounting up my Boss (thanks again Donn!) I agree totally with your view regarding the rear bracket. It's only slightly better than totally sucking. The front mount is not as I would like either. It seems a tad loose. I have the new wishbone front mount so the inner spacer "slug" limits how tight the clamp gets. I suppose I could shorten the spacer but then the rubber mounts get pulled inward. Someone in this thread said their rubber mounts floated in the bracket. Mine don't. It appears they are pressed in. I tried to shove them back and forth when I had the pipe off but they didn't move even when tapped with a hammer and punch. Sooo,, if you're still going to make up a few of those brackets, I'd be happy to try and break one for ya! Brad | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Brad, I'm in a holding pattern waiting for the sample clamps to arrive....it's been almost 2 weeks, I think I'd better call 'em back. Not good form to hassle vendors on FREE samples, though.  Those rubber mounts should float, but they're tight, and pushing on them swells the rubber and makes 'em stick more. Try spraying Armor-All around their perimeter from both sides, let it penetrate, do it again, then push and see if it makes a difference. Al | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Thanks Al, I'll give the Armor-All or silicon a try. I need to pull and remount anyway. I didn't have any pipe sealer the first time. Figured I'd bolt it up anyway and check the fit and "note" just for grins. The Boss definately sounds like it means business! I like! If I can get the mounts to move, I'll make a shorter spacer to get the clamp pressure up a bit. Brad | ||
| Ccryder |
Brad: I shot mine with some of that snot slick tire dressing and wiggled them with a round screwdriver shank. After a little more wiggle they will move. Not to worry, when they get compressed from either side they will stay in place. It is nice that they can move so things will self-center and not get bound up (unless your into that kinda thing ;+}). Later Neil S. | ||
| Rempss |
Need a very subjective/personal opinion. Is the Force Streetfighter pipe too loud? I am a 3 time a week rider (40-120+- miles each) so not on it everyday. So far a quick jog around the block (31 degrees!), seems louder than my Boss, but I don't know the long term. Also concerned with small town police, seems they let Harley's with little or no exhaust do anything, but a sportbike lives by different rules. Anyone? | ||
| Blake |
It is VERY LOUD!! It's a straight pipe (no baffling) is it not? |
