| Author |
Message |
    
Paint_shaker
| | Posted on Friday, April 29, 2005 - 11:36 pm: | 
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Got the S1W back today... Kudos to Gainesville H-D/ Buell for getting it in and out quickly! |
89rs1200
| | Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 01:34 pm: |
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If you are mechanically inclined, this job is easy.
I have replaced these on all 3 of my S3's.
* Just take care and DO NOT cross thread the Torx Bolts!
* Pin length is CRITICAL!! If too long, it will cause premature failure by forcing the rubber to separate from the metal.
* Please use the Torx Bolts! They stay out of the way better than the allens.
* For '97 & '98 I recommend you take off the exhaust first. This allows for more clearance.
Do yourself a favor and buy the latest rear isolators that have the metal "Wings" or "Ears". These can carry more weight, and last much longer.
Part Numbers: Left L0504.9, Right L0505.9, Torx Bolt AA106.10FKZB
Isolator Kit (If you can find it.) Z0010.CB
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/bulletins/Isolators96-00.pdf
http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/isotool.php
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/103797.html?1114832200 |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 10:02 pm: |
|
"ISOLATOR" SERVICE BULLETIN B-016B contains a lot of BUELLschitte that does not need to be
done !!!
ATC ISOLATOR TOOL is now out of date !!!
WANT SOME UP-DATED "INFO" e-mail me and "i" will
e-mail it to all interested ??? |
Jamesearthdrum
| | Posted on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 12:47 pm: |
|
Buellistic,
Sent you a PM |
Bluebueller
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 12:29 am: |
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Buellistic
PM sent - old post but relative information. need to get this job done this week.. |
89rs1200
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:11 am: |
|
I have performed this on two S3's.
Get the above Service Bulletin, the large bolt and two washers.
Yes much of the bulletin is not valid, but not all of it. Read it and my notes to work out the relevant bits.
See photos:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/25024.html
* I like the torx bolts but it is impossible to line up the isolators during reassembly. Use a nice long Allen wrench and very clean original Allen head bolts. Take extreme care to not cross threads.
* Use the engine hoist to lift and stabilize the back of the motorcycle.
* Remove the tank.
* Take loose one end off all three tie bars and the ground strap under the battery.
* Remove sprocket cover.
Remove isolator bolts.
* Now, if the rear exhaust runs under the frame tube you can likely leave it on. If it runs above the frame tube you may need to remove the exhaust.
* Raise the back of the frame slowly while shaking the rear tire and engine. Yes, you are now raising the frame until the rear isolators just fall loose. The engine/rear tire will hang from the frame on the front top isolator.
* Check roller pin length.
* The isolators need to push against the engine and frame and fit tightly. Installed properly you will need to compress one of the isolators with that bolt and large washers.
* To get a proper tight fit it is common to use one fender washer between the engine and isolator on one or both sides.
* Now, with help, hang the isolators from the roll pins, compress one isolator, and slowly lower the frame over the isolators.
* At some point you will need to remove the compressing bolt and washers as they get in the way.
* Keep lowering while watching the fender washers and rear isolators from moving. This can be done with a large screw driver to help line up the bolt holes.
* Don't forget anti-seize to underside of bolt heads.
* Tighten right and left Torx isolator bolts to 63-70 ft-lbs (85-95Nm).
* Tighten right and left Allen isolator bolts to 105 ft-lbs. |
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