| Author | Message | ||
     Rick_a |
I run an S&S aircleaner with a K&N filter. Replacing the foam filter and cutting the cover and backing plate to allow more airflow gained 9hp and 5ft-lbs on the dyno. It hits the knee except when leaning through corners. I don't mind 'cause it keeps the header from roasting my leg. It's cheap and durable. | ||
| Captainkirk |
Al, Interesting comment on the breather line routing; I'd never thought of that. Maybe I need a catch-can after all. I'm just "dumping" into my CF can housing at present. Thanks for bringing it up. | ||
| Ftd |
Al, I wondered about my routing too so I monitored it closely initially. It's been like shown for almost 3 years/12000 miles and no problems (yet). I MT the catch can every other oil change. Frank | ||
| Djkaplan |
I ran my hoses up and over the engine on the first iteration of my breather set-up and never experienced any spooge blockage, puddling, or bubbling. I checked the lines constantly and never saw evidence of any of this. However, I did subsequently route all the lines down, all the way to the catch-can on my second iteration. I have noticed no difference in the amount of spooge or anything else. It does make sense to route them down, but I don't think it's wrong if you have them going up a short distance. The stock breather lines on my 00 M2 were routed up a short distance in the bread box from the factory and they never get anything wrong..., ahem [sarcastic remark inserted]. | ||
| Ftd |
Al, Is that XB Rocker Box Breather Conversion Kit simply a bolt on deal? I wish I could have had that done when my rocker boxes leaked (3 yrs ago). Frank | ||
| Toomanytoys |
Is the velocity stack also recommended for use with the forcewinder? Is this even possible? i see it is suggested to be used with the race oval or the gutted box. | ||
| Djkaplan |
The venturi ring can't be used with a Forcewinder. | ||
| Devdawg |
The Westtek intake from American Sport Bike is set well forward to give you much more knee clearance for those who need it. It might be worth taking a look at.  (Message edited by devdawg on March 03, 2005) | ||
| Al_lighton |
Frank (Ftd), I'm sorry, I didn't see your question earlier. Yes, the XB rocker boxes just bolt right on, assuming you don't have any larger lift cams or bigger valves that would require clearancing on the inside. The single rocker box cover replaces the two slice XL style covers. Toughest thing about the install is the removal of the rear cylinder right rear bolt, just like when you repaired your leak before. But when you did your leak, you likely had to take off the LOWER rocker box. That is a lot more involved. Putting on the XB covers is far less work, as you'll never break torque on the bolts that are holding the lower rocker box to the head. Installation is a 1 hour job, WITH beer. Our kit includes polished covers, as the stock XB covers have a bit of a 7th grade metal shop sand cast appearance as they come from Buell. There is a little bit of clearancing needed on the front cover for the engine mount, but we take care of that. Comes with everything you need except the breather filter. It's a worthy upgrade, my S1W pukes far less oil with the XB rockerboxes installed. Al | ||
| Ftd |
Al, Thanks for the info. I'll definitely consider them for a future project. Frank | ||
| Knickers |
When you put XB covers on a tuber, keep a close eye on clearance between the rear cylinder PCV valve and the fuel tank. I had to grind the PCV valve to get it to sit lower and shim the fuel tank up with some washers on my S3. It still rubbed and ended up wearing a hole in the PCV valve thus spewing all over the rear of the bike. I ended up going back to the old rocker covers on the rear cylinder. Oh well 1/2 a solution is better than none at all. Kurt | ||
| Mikej |
Could you just stuff a rubber elbow into the hole and then push the PCV into the end of that? Do you really need the PCV valves? Can you just run rubber lines up to a Y or T fitting and put a PCV valve remote somewhere? I haven't done the mod yet but have been thinking of it. Thanks for the heads up about the rear clearance issue. I think someone mentioned it before but it didn't really sink in until now. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, The PCV valves are a right angle affair. The openings at the bottom that insert into the grommet are on the side not on the bottom flat. Ths would prevent you from puttin them "inline" with a lower profile 90 bend adapter. | ||
| Hogluvr |
OK, maybe I'm preaching to the wrong choir. I posted in the carburetion section that I'm having trouble getting the intake manifold off my '98 S1. The two allen bolts on the airbox side are right up against the manifold. I'm puzzled as to how they put this thing together this way, let alone how I'm supposed to get this apart!! The two runners for the manifold curve out towards the carburetor, so I don't see any way these bolts are going to come out. Everything is loose, I actually pulled out the two bolts on the left side of the bike even though I don't need to in hopes of getting a little more play in the manifold, but there is still not nearly enough clearance to back these things out! Did I mention there is NO CLEARANCE ?? Anyone have any ideas?? | ||
| Sportyeric |
You have backed out the offending bolts as far as possible? You can rotate the manifold? Sorry about the stupid question before. If not, try WD40? Hacksaw the bolts. Or the manifold. File or Dremel the edges of the heads of the bolts? Cut the bolts with a dremel. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Sportyeric, no problem, I have seen people do much dumber things in the past...  The two bolts on the slotted side of flange are completely out, bolts on other side are loose, worked manifold back and forth, will still only move slightly. There is still almost no clearance between the other two bolts and the manifold. One bolt will back out somewhat before it hits up against the manifold, the other is still right up against it from the get-go. Trying not to do anything TOO drastic yet... | ||
| Mikej |
Brad, Looks like I'm just going to have to do this and get some first hand experience with the update. Got no time but I'll do it anyway, who needs sleep in the winter/spring slush/thaw. Hogluvr, Just a simple question, is the intake on your bike the stock original one? I just did a google image search and came up with these. You may have to put the two removed bolts back in to see any progress.   | ||
| Hogluvr |
Mikej, bike is bone stock, it is definitely the original intake. Got some more feedback on my posts in the carburetion section, lubed it up with WD40 & used a hammer handle to give it some leverage, she's finally starting to break loose & rotate (reasonably sure now that intake seals were DEFINITELY a problem). Shot some more WD to let soak overnite, going out to the garage now for another shot at it... | ||
| Mikej |
Good luck. And contrary to other advise, try to avoid using the hard end of the hammer. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Mikej, got it off, did NOT beat it senseless with a hammer, it wasn't pretty, but it's off... | ||
| Mikej |
I'm thinking it might be easier to just trade mine in on a new bike if I find the need to do this also. I might be temped to get out the cutting torch on the stock intake if I can't get it off. Regardless, congratulations. Post pics if you can. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Yeah, I wouldn't blame you, it always seems like the stuff that's supposed to be simple gives me the biggest problems. Unfortunately, the two bolts that were hanging me up ended up scarring the intake manifold pretty good in that area, as careful as I tried to be to avoid that happening. I'm now trying to find a way to "pretty it up", so to speak. Thinking about painting it, or maybe polishing it if that's possible. I'm pretty sure the manifold itself is aluminum, not sure what the original finish was. Anyone have any ideas/suggestions?? | ||
| Chris_mackay |
Mike, I really think you should just sell it and be done with it. And since it needs SOOOOOoo much work the price would probably be pretty good, 'eh? | ||
| Mikej |
Chris, I'm thinkin' we might have differing opinions on the definition of "pretty good" when it comes to the price. But, yeah, we could talk, but you probably sold what I would have traded it for.  | ||
| Chris_mackay |
 | ||
| Mikej |
 Didn't you get a deal on an FLH or FXR or something? I'm going to try and open up the M2 primary this or next weekend for a look and maybe update the tensioner while I'm in there. I should check the stator and wires as well but don't want to break out the big tools yet if I don't have to. Still deciding between the M2 & S2. Then still playing with the idea of dual carbs or a Mikuni or something (to stay on thread topic), just haven't had time to take care of it yet. And now I've got the '95 2-door Blazer to fix or dump as well. | ||
| Chris_mackay |
Got an old dual throat mikuni if ya wanna give it a try. I ran it on the Sportster I used to use for sled pulling in the rodeos. Don't really need it any more. | ||
| Mikej |
That's interesting. I used to run a small throat carb on a big block chevy back in the 70's with good results, does the dual-throat Mikuni work on the same principle? Or does it need a unique intake manifold? I'll have to do some reading up on this, might be interesting. | ||
| Mikej |
Chris, Is this what you ran? http://www.riveraengineering.com/html/instll-5-r.html  | ||
| Chris_mackay |
Doesn't quite look like that. I'll take a pic this weekend. It worked great for what I used it for, but it had no accellerator pump and you had to roll it on. Snapping the throttle leaves you waiting for the gas to catch up. |
