| Author | Message | ||
     Bomber |
wow . . . .45.0 carefree miles! . . . . . . grin | ||
| Daves |
How about a real clean S1? Dave | ||
| Outrider |
Bomber...Whoops, you caught me on that one. I forgot to add the "K" as is 45,000 carefree miles. The only reason I sold it was to get a sport touring bike which was more compatible with the type riding my friends were into. The kid that bought it continued to use the same dealer and last I heard he had over 75,000 miles on it and still no trouble to speak of. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
I have a couple of criteria.... inexpensive, lightweight, easy to ride (ergos). I'd also like something that won't loose too much value over a 2 year period. Lisa really wants a "cruiser"-style bike or a Blast. Dave...got a cheap S1?? Maybe I need a track bike  | ||
| Outrider |
Lake...of the two, I would suggest the Blast. Old cruisers that meet your criteria will be hard to source parts for unless you like hitting the junkyards. Whereas, the Blast should have parts available for quite some time. Too bad you aren't likely find a ready-to-ride Sporty in your price range. Yet, it never hurts to keep looking. | ||
| Bomber |
I can vouch for the Blast --- light, fast enough (if you're willing to flog it a bit) so you won't REALLY outgrow it in a season of riding (your ego may outgrow it, but that's a different story) and easily worked on when it comes time to fix crash damage~! | ||
| Uwgriz |
Dennis, my experience with Road Track and Trail is that there pretty rigid on their prices. At least they were earlier in the season. This time of year that may soften up a bit. I know their inventory seems to change daily. | ||
| Uwgriz |
"easily worked on when it comes time to fix crash damage~!" Yes, it is... | ||
| Mikej |
Dennis, Check out bikes like the following, only from private parties. Already depreciated in price, last a long time with minimal maintenance, necessary parts are usually available, decent power, usually low miles, fair handling, great starter road bikes, and most of them have enough power for the freeways. Food for thought. http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/4/4/72275644.htm http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/8/4/70371884.htm http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/7/4/69022874.htm http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/5/2/71468052.htm http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/4/1/73928041.htm http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/5/4/57554154.htm  http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/3/4/73580234.htm http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/8/0/71005880.htm | ||
| Bads1 |
Unless your replacing the rearsets.LOL Thats another story all in its own,right Griz???? | ||
| Kinger |
Meeting tonight at 7 p.m.????? | ||
| Uwgriz |
F^#ing fired! Everybody! | ||
| Mikej |
Uh, what?!? | ||
| Kinger |
F^#ing fired! Everybody! Uh, what?!? My thoughts exactly | ||
| R1DynaSquid |
What up? | ||
| Mikej |
| ||
| Bomber |
let's not contemplate that too much, shall we? and hope for more clarification! | ||
| Uwgriz |
Those were my "you've got to be kidding me" comments for those responsible for the position of the three little studs that hold the footpegs on the Blast after busting my knuckles. Three bolts, three different socket, extension, u-joint combinations required to remove them. Aggrevating until you learn the trick unless you want to remove the shock to change your primary fluid. | ||
| Bomber |
ah . . . .scared us there for a minute, brer griz . . . . I concur . . . . although with your tips before hand, I got the thing off in about ten minutes . . . .not looking to torquing the nuts though . . . . may just use german torque values for them | ||
| Uwgriz |
We used a magnet to hold the nut in position and were able to reach under the frame to start to spin them on. After that, the "that feels pretty good" torque wrench was used. |
