| Author | Message | ||
     Sokota |
just picked up the city cross , had the buell race kit installed [ecm,filter,can] , with this done how much power is it producing? #2... with the sport trans fluid mystery solved [20 / 50 motor oil] is 75 / 90 synthetic gear oil a better choice, it flows like a 20/50 oil ,and is designed for gears and there pressures. any way of asking the factory? | ||
| Reepicheep |
The Mobil 1 full syn gear oil is the best. There are dynos here somewhere... I would guess you are around 82 to 86 horsepower peak at the rear. It will go up as the bike breaks in. | ||
| Fullpower |
well the gear lube is 10 bucks, and the motor oil is 3 bucks. i would say use the 20W-50, and change it when you drain motor oil every 6 weeks or so. cant go wrong with frequent oil drain intervals, where-as with a ten dollar quart in the trans one may be tempted to just leave it in there for another month...... | ||
| Starter |
If you look at the viscosity of the 20W50 and 75W90 on a comparision chart you will notice that they are nearly the same. Some say the gear oil has anti foaming additives etc that the motor oil doesn't but at the end of the day it's you scooter and fill it with what you want to. | ||
| Sokota |
Starter....what are you pouring in yours? | ||
| Reepicheep |
A good point that came out here before is that the gear oil is formulated to take junk that gets into the oil, bond to it, and make it sink to the bottom of the tranny. Motor oil is designed to try and keep it in suspension long enough for it to get to the oil filter. Also, Mobil 1 Gear oil (and likely others) have additives that makes for a *fantastic* oil, but if they were to ever get in your combustion chamber would leave really destructive deposits. The fact that this can't happen when using gear oil on transmission only location, gives the lubricant engineers a lot more freedom in which additives they can use. But full synthetic 20w50 is probably fine. The gear oil is just that much better. I have reason to believe the needle bearings in my 2000 M2 stopped being needle bearings and became plain bearings for 8000 miles or more. Not only that, but they were plain bearings constantly ingesting the rusted chunks of the needle bearing cage that was steadily disintigrating. I was using mobil one exclusively. By the time I pulled the tranny, the transmission shaft that rode those plain bearings was *almost* usable (and actually, probably would have worked fine). | ||
| Brucelee |
Use the gear oil. That is why it is called gear oil and has a different API rating than MOTOR OIL. | ||
| Ejiii |
Check out the Sport-Trand fluid thread. HD now has certified synthetic 20w-50 suitable for all engines, transmissions and primary cases (see the picture of their bottle of oil in the thread). HD is the one that provides the warranty coverage. They would not recommend an oil if it was not suitable because it will cost them a lot of money if they are wrong. I work for an OEM. Changes are not made like that without a lot of analysis from many different internal departments (R&D, engineering, warranty, model engineers, publications and legal). HD made the bike, they know what they are doing. Synthetic 20w-50 will be fine forever in your bike. | ||
| Metalstorm |
I think I read somewhere here on anouther thread that gear oil may have friction modifiers that can cause damage to the wet clutch. I don't know anything about that but I believe 20/50 syn is better than sport trans fluid and I never had problems with the sport trans in my Sporty *knocks on wood*. Though I have a tendency to change the primary fluid every (or sometimes every other) time I change the oil. I'll probably switch to the 20/50 syn the next time I do the ol' oil change. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That was the redline shockproof stuff. It is not friction modifiers, it is some sort of fibrous goo. It clogs up the clutch plates, and makes a mess of the stator, and goos over a bunch of other stuff as well. Redline does not even recommend it for our application any more. | ||
| Sokota |
sport-trans fluid is a 20/50 motor oil,amsoils cross reference is there 20/50 synthetic. i called amsoil tech dept. they said there 75/90 gear oils had friction modifiers which could cause a wet clutch to slip over time.i even asked if mobil 1 gear oil would do the same ,answer was yes. if anyone using synthetic gear oil has developed a slipping clutch please post, start a informal survey. | ||
| Reepicheep |
This has been hashed to death. If mobil 1 makes your clutch slip, your clutch is broken. I put 25k miles on a 2000 M2, most of which was with mobil 1, and had wheel hop, worn dog pops, and rear end slides, so I was putting down plenty of power. Never had the least bit of clutch slippage. I had a Yamaha Radian with a lightly slipping clutch, and full synthetic made it a moderately slipping clutch. Nothing wrong with 20w50 full synthetic though. If you can't tell a difference shifting, it's "good enough". The difference between sport trans and mobil 1 was day and night on my Cyclone. The XB was very good with both, but I will probably continue with the Mobil 1 just because it did so good in the Cyclone. | ||
| Starter |
Not that it matters but I got Mobil 1 15W50 in the engine and Mobil 1 75W/90 in the trans. You guys in the states have nothing to whine about concerning oil and fluid prices, at least your not paying $20+ a quart. |
