| Author | Message | ||
     Lpd22 |
Alright I know everyone is sick and tired of these threads and I'm sure this one will sound pretty redundant so i'm sorry. Ok i tore into my airbox and took the snorkel out, cut it up and put the inch that was left of the snorkel back in to seal up the bottom of the airbox. Question number one is the insulation for underneath of the airbox that important? Does it make that much of a difference? Would i be fine without it?Second question if i do need to put the insulation under the bottom half of the airbox how do i get the bottom of the airbox off over the velocity stack and past the seal on the velocity stack? Third question do the four screws that i took out of the bottom half of the airbox need thread-lock on them when i put them back in? Ok now to my question about the top airbox over the air cleaner. Tell me if im getting this right, you just totally take off the top half of the airbox leave the bottom half on and bolt or tie down the air cleaner to the bottom half and leave it like that and just throw the plastic over it? If so how do i bolt down the air cleaner? I have seen the thread on how to tie it down but i dont want to do that. I'd rather bolt it down. Thanks for your patients and time guys its greatly appreciated. Thanks Again. | ||
| Lpd22 |
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| Lovematt  |
I am running that mod right now and it works really well with the K&N filter. What I did is put two of big square sponges you can get for about 2 dollars a piece on top of it. The bottom piece was cut to fit what was left of the airbox cover and slit at the top. The slit hold the hose that crosses over the filter. The bottom on is shaved to have a curve with the corners nearly gone and the middle with a hump in the middle of it. When I put the "gas tank" back on there is about a 1-2 inch gap. Just push down and put the bolts in...no problems nor change in the sound since then. I didn't go the bolt route for fear of something getting loose. | ||
| Reepicheep  |
The insulation helps to a small degree, but not having it does not really hurt. The purpose of it is to draw cold air into the engine, which gives slightly better performance then pulling warm engine air. | ||
| Lpd22 |
so if i were to put the insulation on there how do i get the bottom part of the air box past the velocity stack seal? | ||
| Lovematt |
If you look really close you will see that the velocity stack has a seal that goes all the way around at the base with the airbox. If you want to take the base off first look "behind" the stack (between the seat and stack) at the base and you will see a small air sensor with a wire going to it...disconnect that first so it doesn't get yanked on the way up. Then there is a seal all the way around the stack at the base...this is (or should be) pretty flexible. Once all the bolts holding the airbox base on and the wire is removed for the sensor, the whole bottom will kind of move up and down...push towards the middle of the airflow at the seal around the stack and it will move...work your way around to get it out. Don't take the stack out! When you go to put it back on you kind of have to work it all the way around...I put the seal on top of the airbox base, put the wire back on, and then work the seal back in little by little. Kind of a pain but if you go slow and use a little WD40 it goes good. | ||
| Lpd22 |
ok thanks now those four bolts do they need thread-lock? | ||
| Lovematt |
I used anti-sieze (stainless to aluminum) to keep it from...well...siezing up and not allowing it to be loosened at a later time. Basically it seals the threads and keeps electrical activity/galvanic action to a minimum. I get mine at Napa since I use it on hot rods all the time. | ||
| Lpd22 |
Ok my stock airbox still looks like this  | ||
| Lpd22 |
I want mine to look like this. This is a pic of Odies bike and i want to know where he exactly cut his stock air box at. | ||
| Lpd22 |
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| Bigeasy |
I think you should get the 12 airbox first. Odie has the same bike as mine, xb12s red. I cut mine just like the pic above. Cut around the outside of the box that covers your air filter, leaving the piece with the cone that will seal the air filter. I didn't even use any bolts to hold it down its a tight fit to begin with. Plus that grey foam you see holds it tight after you screw down the colored top. Or you can buy some foam yourself. I dont have the heat shield and I did not reroute the breather tubes and it works great. Your ecm will also need some time to adjust so give it a chance. Look at the thread running about "xb9 airbox mod" right now. I did that also and am very pleased with the results but take your time doing it. I think I will buy the premade heat shield from ironmachines before summer and the heat return also. Oh and also I didnt leave in the snorkle at all. It pulls like a mother...... now and sounds nasty! Excuse my spelling and rambling as I am working on killing this keg with some friends at the moment.  Good luck! It really itsnt that hard if you get stuck call me at work Im there all the time cooter browns bar and grill 1-504-866-9104 I'll try answer any ?s. Art | ||
| Odie  |
Lpd22- what Big said. If you need anymore help drop me a line....Later, Odie | ||
| Lpd22 |
Thanks guys. I plan on doing the heat shield first. And then i'll order a 12 airbox, cut that sucker up. And then do the "9 airbox mod". I have plenty time before next season so I'll get things done. Thanks again. You guys are awesome.  | ||
| Maxima4xu2 |
well it pulls much beter with just yanking the dang snorkel e.p.a.  hrmmmm i can reuse the foam that would normally go around the exhaust servo motor  now all i need to do is get off my fat #$% and do it already  | ||
| Maxima4xu2 |
ok i did it ran like crap for about 5 minutes then smoothed out some but it is fregin cold here right now 34 degrees dangit so i only putted around town for awhile i dont notice much more of anything yet as far as power goes all i notice is the extremely loud s$%t a^& valve train noise the bike around town sounds like a big rig hrmmmmmmmmm  | ||
| Maxima4xu2 |
ok update time i finally got my cali cant stand the cold butt back out and rode the darn thing for some time and heheh well lets just say the computer adjusted itself nicely the bike runs like a raped ape it floats the front end in 3rd gear when i whack the throtle now hehehe | ||
| Bigeasy |
Same here, the dam thing scared me the first time. art | ||
| Lpd22 |
Ok question for Odie or Dave or whomever can answer this. I need the part numbers or names of the xb12 airbox pieces or parts that i need in order to set my airbox up like Odies. I talked to my local dealership today and he said there are various parts to the xb12 airbox and he needs the names or part numbers in order to get the right stuff ordered for me and for what i want to do. I dont need the bottom of the 12 airbox when i already have the 9. right? Are the 9 and 12 airbox bottoms the same? I'm trying to get this all straightened out so i can put my bike back together as soon as possible. Thanks for your help guys. It's greatly appreciated. caleb | ||
| Odie |
Lpd22, you are correct. The base plate assembly is the same (the part that actually bolts to the frame). The intake cover assembly (colored, shiny part) is the same for all XB's. What you want is the 12S/R AIRBOX cover. The terms are all out of the maint. manual. They also call the Airbox cover the "cover, air cleaner." DaveS would have the part number as he will know exactly what you need. Later, Odie | ||
| Lpd22 |
Ok, thanks a lot Odie.  | ||
| Daves |
Part # for the airbox lid is p0215.1AA 34.95 Race filter is 29388-02Y 64.95 I have them in stock for you and give a 10% Badweb discount as well as not charging sales tax. You will pay a few bucks shipping. 1-866-757-1651 ask for Dave in the sales dept to get me! | ||
| Odie |
Lpd22, not a problem, anytime......Odie |
