| Author | Message | ||
     Bigeasy |
Hi guys bought me a new red xb12s 1 month ago and loving it! (2016 miles) I have the full buell race kit installed and have been thinking of cutting up the air box. I have cut the snorkle to a 1/4 of its length like I saw in a pervious thread to seal the box. Now my ? is where do I put the heat resisent fabric I bought that I saw odie post a pic of? Under the bottom of the air box? Also will my race ecm be able to handle the increase air flow? Sorry guys I am very handy with tools but dont know jack about this any help would be great. art | ||
| Odie  |
Bigeasy, you need to take off your outer airbox and then your inner airbox and then finally the lower airbox that bolts to the frame. If you purchased a heat barrier that is pre-shaped then it should be a no brainer as far as how it mounts. If you bought a sheet of material then you should put the highest heat resistant side down towards the motor. Cut it to fit and poke holes for the bolts to go thru and put everything back together. Don't forget to hook up your Inlet Air Temp Sensor or you'll get a check engine light when your done! Take a look inside the coil area, etc. for wire chaffing as this is becoming a topic of interest lately. It will save you having to do it later...Later...Odie | ||
| M1combat  |
The thermal mat would be used to completely replace the entire inner airbox. You would need to make a hole that would be used for the V-Stack just like the original airbox, and you would need a way to seal the upper and lower rim of the filter. You would also need to re-route the breather hoses, or make two holes in your mat to run them through. "Just make it work man"... | ||
| Bigeasy |
Thank you tools in hand and evil grin on face! | ||
| Reepicheep  |
M1, That would only work if BigEasy has the Pod type filter and stack, right? If you are sticking with the race filter, I would think you want to do what Odie suggests. Am I getting it right Odie? Pull the airbox, including the bottom "plate", lay the thermal material under that bottom plate, route all the right bits through it as they were before, and put everything back. The inner airbox can either be "swiss cheesed", or just mostly cut out. I have pictures in the knowledge vault of a nice mounting system that consists of velcro straps (WalMart) and O-Rings. It straps down just the top part of the inner airbox, just enough of the part remaining to hold the race filter in place, I cut the rest away. It's obvious from the picture. I got some heat shield material from my Dad (works at a feeder company for Honda). They were looking at using it, but it was too expensive, so he had a small roll of sample stuff left over. It looks like a very heavy laminated metal foil with adhesive on one side, I will probably throw it on next time I am in there and see how it works. I will probably do some homebrew flame tests first though, where did I put that Propane torch anyway?!?!  | ||
| Odie |
Reep, yep, you're right. Unless he has a FAST type system then everything goes back in as before except with the barrier material under the very bottom inner airbox "Plate"....Odie | ||
| Bigeasy |
Well I'm done! I used some stuff I got from napa called thermo tec. I put it under the bottom half of the air box and cut out all the holes for everything. I also cut out huge pieces of the airbox cover leaving only a (the inside top) frame to support the filter. I may just cut it out all the way and run a bolt though to hold down the top of the filter. Also cut the snorkle down to 1.75" and shoved it back in. Took it out for a test ride but traffic sucks right now! It is louder and seems to rev up faster above 3500 rpm. Will the ecm get used to it all by itself? I also miss the mid range I had when she was stock, do you think the techlusion would help? Thanks for all the help guys. Went pretty smooth. I also checked for wire damage and everything seemed good.  (Message edited by bigeasy on December 06, 2004) | ||
| 99buellx1  |
I dont understand the point of cutting the snorkle if you are cutting the airbox lid. Really, what is it going to gain? Craig | ||
| Bigeasy |
Im thinking it covers the gap between the frame and the bottom of the airbox. So you wont be sucking hot air in from the engine. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
But if you cut the airbox lid, the heat is still going to get there. So I think it's pointless. IMO Craig | ||
| Bigeasy |
Thats why I put the heat shield on the bottom. But your right some will. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
If the bike is moving, what good is a heat shield? That is, the air will move too quickly to heat up before it goes into the engine. Right? Anyone measure the air temp inside the air filter with and without the heat shield? | ||
| Trenchtractor  |
DC, Take your bike for a good ride, as soon as you get home, pop the seat, remove the outer tank cover an feel the back of the air box lid... I was surprised at how hot mine was... Theoretically, the amount of fresh air comming in should keep the temp down while you're riding, but a couple of degrees can increase you intake temp, which increases engine temp by a bit, leading to a hotter air box, leading to hotter intake temp... That's my theory, anyway. I'm not saying the thing's gonna go into thermal runaway, but I could see how it'd increase the intake temp. Every little bit helps. | ||
| Fullpower  |
why are we performing partial snorklectomies? i was under the impression that the snorkel was a noise emissions device, and was only capable of impeding airflow, and thus reducing power output. why would one re-install a partial snorkle? | ||
| Fullpower |
i m sorry, i forgot to say congrats on the new bike. the 12 comes stock with a free flowing air box, no need to carve it up. | ||
| Bigeasy |
Thanks full power. |
