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Fernus
Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2019 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Bueller, I have an 08 xb12xt and this brake rotor is shot, tire is scalloped, belt looks old and the wheel looks like it was painted w a brush . I'm planing on removing the wheel and striping it down to have it powder coated . Think I should remove the bearings or leave them in place? Any other thoughts on what to do while I'm at it .
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1_mike
Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2019 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Remove EVERYTHING that was not in the original casting mold.

Mike
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Skipbarberman
Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2019 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As Mike stated - all bearings and any grease/oil must be removed before powder coating. Most places like to do their own prep to ensure good coating, but all bearings MUST be removed. It vaporizes the oil and contaminates the powder coat during the baking process. It can ruin not only your piece, but other pieces in the oven.

(Message edited by skipbarberman on January 26, 2019)
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Griffmeister
Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2019 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Remove bearings and have new ones ready to go back in since, technically, the only way to remove the old ones is by pushing on the inner race which will damage the old bearing. Yeah, the damage is microscopic and some people will say itís not a problem, but the bearing manufacturers say otherwise. Besides, this is a common problem area and this is the best time to deal with it so why not?
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Doz
Posted on Monday, January 28, 2019 - 07:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I bought a nice set of blue wheels from a guy long time ago. Said he just had them powder coated. I went to put new bearings in and they where too small, they dropped right in!! I suspect the wheels where in the oven with the bearings in and they expanded the casting.
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Shoggin
Posted on Monday, January 28, 2019 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The 350-400* oven used for powder coating is not nearly hot enough to dimensionally change aluminum.
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Skipbarberman
Posted on Monday, January 28, 2019 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agreed, oven heat is not the issue.

More likely, they 'over-prepped' the wheels, likely with black beauty or some other highly abrasive media, and removed too much cast aluminum, changing the bearing pocket dimensions.

I've seen it before......sorry man, that sucks.

(Message edited by skipbarberman on January 28, 2019)
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Fernus
Posted on Monday, February 04, 2019 - 02:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the advice. I'll order some bearings, are there just 2 bearings? Do I need to order races too? What's the best way to remove them?
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Shoggin
Posted on Monday, February 04, 2019 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Unless someone changed your rear wheel to a 2010 Uly rear wheel and axle, you only have 2 bearings.

They are sealed ball bearings, not taped wheel bearings like a car (I wish), so they come complete.

The "Best" way to have them removed is to have a bikini clad beauty do it for you while you enjoy a beer and watch: )

Otherwise, if you want to be a mechanic, use a blind bearing puller.
Be SURE to check the bearing spacer for correct dimension with a micrometer because it will cause pre-mature bearing failure if it had been previously overtorqued and squished (easy to do), and take CARE to follow the manuals procedure for re-torquing them with a torque wrench.
IIRC, Rear wheels are 25ft/lbs, back off 2 turns, and then 50.
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Skipbarberman
Posted on Monday, February 04, 2019 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shoggin is correct....but I'm still waiting for that beauty that brings beer...

Sealed bearings as stated above, (2) prior to 2010.

I use a more 'unorthodox' method of removing them. I set the wheel on the ground (tire installed/inflated, or a piece of carpet with a bare wheel to protect finish). I use a prybar and try to get the two edges of the prybar blade on the inner bearing surface down through the spacer....so the inner bearing surface of the bearing closest to the floor working down through the spacer with a light. Hold firmly, and smack with a hammer. Shift to opposite side, repeat. Once you create a little clearance, the spacer between the bearings will start to move (not trapped between the bearings), giving you a better purchase on the bearing serface. Switch to a rod or large punch and evenly tap them out....you're not reusing them, so damage doesn't matter....just don't damage the wheel by driving one side to far.

Re installation - I use a full size hydraulic shop press with sockets just slightly smaller than the opening, with the ratchet side down for more support. Remember, you want to press on the outer bearing surface..coat the wheel with grease and they should slide in...with a little resistance. If you don't have a hydraulic press, you can use threaded rod through the center to 'draw them in', or tap lightly with a brass punch, working back and forth to seat them. If you use a punch, be careful and work your way all the way around the bearing tapping it in.

They are a 'resistance fit' (slightly smaller than the opening)....if not, your powdercoater got a little rambunctious with the sandblaster.
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Griffmeister
Posted on Monday, February 04, 2019 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A word of caution on installing the second bearing. Whether you use a press, threaded rod or tap them in I suggest you get a heavy flat washer that fits both the inner and outer race at the same time. The inner race seats against the spacer, the outer race doesnít seat against anything so you want to be sure that they are both equal distance or you will end up side loading the bearing.
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Fernus
Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2019 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, will the races need to be removed too? After researching the 2010 wheel and all the info you guys provided . I may skip the recoat to avoid the bearing work if the bearings seem good.
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Shoggin
Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2019 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"They are sealed ball bearings,"... The bearings are just complete bearings, all one unit.
..."not tapered wheel bearings like a car" They do not have a separate outer race that needs to be removed from the hub, they are one unit.

YES, replace them most assuredly. It is an easier job that it sounds like, and they usually come out easily. It just needs to be done properly. Step-by-step is in the manual. You can get a free .pdf download from Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com

Or you could take a 6-pack to your local bike shop: )

(Message edited by shoggin on February 07, 2019)
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