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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through November 17, 2004 » HELP! False OvrHeating - Loss Power - Eng Shut Dwn « Previous Next »

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Racertroy
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

All, I've read between the lines on several different posts and it seems that a few of us have problems with similar characteristics. I've a '03 xb9r with less than 2500 miles. When I rage the bike (e.g. city riding, hard country ride, wheelie, drag light to light, bounce off rev limiter) the bikes seems FINE...i can feel the heat...fan comes on...no big deal, no dash indicator lights...NO PROBLEM. Then, when i jump on the interstate in 5th at 3400 - 4000 rpm, the engine indicator light on the dash lights up after about 7-8 minutes of constant throttle...i can back-off and roll back in the first time and the condition seems to go away...after a few more minutes, the condition comes back a bit more severe; e.g. with power limited even more...if i try to roll-on the throttle, the ECM over-rides and limits power much like it would in an overheating condition...continuing to ride will make the problem worse...but i know the bike is not overheating...at least i do believe so given the high speed relative to engine output...i'm stumped...the condition will improve if i get off the interstate and start raging again...eventually going away...however, if i continue to ride on the interstate for up to 20 minutes, the condition will continue, eventually limiting power to the point where speed limit can no longer be maintained...once this happens, the bike will shut down at the next stop light...after 30 second shut down, i can fire it back up and it takes off fine...will rev back to the limiter with full power...i'm stumped...symptoms seem to manifest in EXACTLY REVERSE of what i would expect...i've heard other '03xb9 owners experience similar symptoms as well as a guy in socal with a 12r (i think i read it in his posting correctly). Incidentally, all of us with the problem are relatively new to Buell's so hence the reason for my post. I'm guessing there is a known fix out there. Oh yeah, My bike is bone stock. Thanks for your help!

ciao,

--ts
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Odie
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check your codes and see what code has latched...Odie
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Racertroy
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Odie, shows no codes attached...light stays on for 4 secs and doesn't come on again...

thanks,

--ts
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would say your TPS is out of adjustment. The reason based on what you have said is that the bike IS overheating at the constant throttle. Its over heating because the engine is leaning out. I would think your TPS is adjusted to low making it more open then the ECM thinks. This is fine when your railing it because of the fact your mostly up around WOT. But the constant speed on the freeway is whats killing you. Your check engine light is coming on because its picking up the lean condition and is trying to tell you HEY! somethings wrong. Its trying to tell you that the problem is way outside of what the AFV can adjust. Especially since your riding it on the freeway right where the AFV resets itself. What is the bike like at idle? Does it hunt around? Is the idle low? 1050-1100 is prime for the idle. Does the idle Hang when you come off the throttle before settling down? or do you not give it a chance by sitting there blipping the throttle at a light? Remember this is a fuel injected bike so you shouldn't need to rev the bike at a light. It should just drop into idle real nice like.
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Odie
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm leaning towards Wycked's scenario....Odie
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M1combat
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'd say that's the first time I've heard of that problem. I've heard of hickups at mid range RPM's but not a seemingly full on "overheat" like situation. I think Mikel might be on to something. I'd take it to your favorite local dealer immediately. Have you checked the wires on the head temperature sensor?
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Racertroy
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Wycked: TPS adjustment seems logical. Can any Harley dealer do the reset? Also, idle is consistent at 950 - 1000 rpm...i've never been a throttle blipper...bike will idle indefinitely...i usually let the bike warm up for at least 60 seconds before going for a ride with no problems...at stop lights, bike settles down and idles smooth, very nice and consistent as you stated. Throttle response, off-idle is also fine, no hangs or hiccups.

M1: Havn't checked the head temp sensor. Is there an easy way?

I'm going to call to have the TPS reset soon. Will keep all posted.

Thanks all,

--ts
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M1combat
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check your service manual... I'm sure it goes through the steps one by one. I don't have mine here at work or I'd post it.
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 01:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Idle is 1050-1150 per the manual. That idle is too low. Any of the HD/Buell dealers can do the TPS reset, but call around, there seems to be a difference in what the dealers want to charge, some will prorate it for half hour, some charge the full hour rate.
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Odie
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Racer, service manual says to check for poor connection first (shorted wires also) and then check for a shifted sensor which may result in poor driveability problems. I found a shorted wire in my servo motor circuit that would make my muffler valve open and close when it wanted to! Barely a rub thru but it was enough. I would check for something like that first. You know how things are packed in there tightly...Odie
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Forcebuell
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 02:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Have your oxygen sensor checked,my bike had similar fault and ended up being faulty sensor
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Racertroy


Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2004 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Force, received the O2 sensor from Daves today. Will install over the holiday and run a test. Will advise.

Thanks to all and to all Thanksgiving.

ciao bella,

--ts
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