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Gordonov
Posted on Saturday, August 25, 2018 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This just started happening recently...have never had this problem before but I noticed my '04 XB12S has been taking longer and longer to start from when I press the ignition switch.

Recently I was out for a longish ride and after stopping somewhere it didn't start back up - I pressed the ignition and just got a pregnant pause then click-click-click.

Luckily I was at the top of a mountain so I tried to roll/bump start it...that didn't work (I probably have bad technique), but after I tried that a few times and was sitting there catching my breath, I tried the ignition again and it started.

I got it all the way back home and then thought I'd experiment by turning it off and trying to start it again. There was that same long pause, then actually a faint wisp of smoke curled up from around the air box so I shut it off quickly.

Since then I haven't been game to hold the ignition switch down long enough to actually kick over the engine since for fear I'm burning out cables or components somewhere.

At first I thought it was a simple case of a bad battery...it's a Deka ETX14 and not that old but it had been sitting for a while before I went riding so I replaced it with a new one (same model). It seemed to be OK for a bit but the same problem has been coming up. I've tested the battery with a multimeter and it's 13V across the terminals. When I turn the key the lights come on strongly and fuel pump sounds strong and not anemic so I don't think it's the battery.

I started to try and locate the issue by first testing the grounding. I hooked up a jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to a bolt on top of the engine (also tried the seat rails) and that didn't make any difference - still the same slow-to-start symptom. I also checked the other grounds I could see (either side of the battery compartment) - both were tight and clean.

I checked the 77 connector by unplugging it and having a look - the connections looked as-new with no sign of melting or warping.

At this stage I'm thinking either the VR or stator have clapped out - am I going down the right path here?
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1_mike
Posted on Saturday, August 25, 2018 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Starter motor, old, worn brushes, loose and or dirty connection.

Mike
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Akbuell
Posted on Saturday, August 25, 2018 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Starter motor is a good choice. If you decide to try again, and it starts, the VR and stator are easy to check - if you have 13.5ish volts or better, with the engine above 2k RPM, the charging system is good.

Might try swapping the relays around, or replacing them, first. If the problem persists, then start looking at the starter motor.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Griffmeister
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2018 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, doubt itís a charging issue if battery voltage is good. The multimeter is your friend here. You can access the hot wire on the starter, maybe the signal too. Put your test lead on one at a time and watch voltage as you hit the start button. Normally the hot wire will drop to about 10 volts as itís cranking. Much larger drop and it could be battery or wiring. Almost no drop and youíre either missing the signal or the starter is worn or corroded as has been suggested. If you can get the test lead on the signal wire that will tell all. Most important rule here is KISS.
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Audiowize
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2018 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just picked up a used starter really cheaply if you end up needing one.

Every Buell XB that I have had ends up having a similar issue at some point. It has *always* been an issue with tightness and quality of the connections to the battery. This could be on the battery end or the chassis ground end.

Also double check that the ground cable on top of the top engine isolator is tight and properly positioned (the last Xb I bought had the cable improperly positioned).
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Audiowize
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2018 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would also add that my process for "checking" a connection is to loosen one, then re-tighten it, then try to start the bike. When the starting behavior changes, then you know which connection was giving you fits.
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