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96s2t
Posted on Friday, April 27, 2018 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a bone stock 2006 Ulysses that cuts out for about a second and then as it is still in gear it starts back up on its own. I take it off road quite a bit and there is lots of jarring and moving the handlebars back and forth and it really only happens on the pavement when cruising at speed. It is just like when you would hit the kill switch then turn ithe switch on again. I have cleaned all the relays and fuses and cleaned all the connectors behind the headlight. I am thinking a sensor or connector somewhere. The bike runs like a champ otherwise. Please.....only reply if you have experienced this condition. I know itís not a TPS reset.👀
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Shoggin
Posted on Friday, April 27, 2018 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It very possibly could be the kill switch on the handlebar. If you wiggle it does it cut out? A disassembly and thorough cleaning could help.
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96s2t
Posted on Saturday, April 28, 2018 - 12:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is my next guess . I have cleaned the contacts from the kill switch and tightened the internal screws on the handlebar control and the 2 screws that hold the controls together. I have tried wiggling the wire from the kill switch too after it cut out. The plan is to take the kill switch apart and check the contacts. Thanks.
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Froggy
Posted on Saturday, April 28, 2018 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Broken ECM. The seat presses down on the connectors causing cracks internally. Try wiggling and pressing on the ECM connectors while the bike is running and see if you can reproduce it.
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96s2t
Posted on Saturday, April 28, 2018 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ECM has been relocated but it is #2 on my list of possible suspects. Thanks.
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96s2t
Posted on Saturday, April 28, 2018 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I actually tried lifting my weight off the seat and slamming down on the seat with my butt while riding. I could not get it to cut out. Thinking about ordering a race ECM to put the ECM to rest.
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Nillaice
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

does the IC blink/loose power too when this happens or is it just that the engine looses power (fuel pressure)?

any trouble codes present/pending?
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96s2t
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry, what is IC?
The engine like goes out right after it starts itself back up.
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96s2t
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just used a jumper wire to read the codes and it flashes 11 times very fast with a second long pause in between then flashes 11 more times then continues to repeat this. I am assuming rhere are no codes stored.
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96s2t
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It looks like more like 12 flashes rather than 11. I am going to clean the kill switch contacts now.
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Raceautobody
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had to clean and grease the contacts of the ignition switch on my Uly. I could recreate the condition with the bike idling and wiggle the key. It would shut off like you hit the kill switch and the gauges would sweep. Cleaning the contacts fixed it.
Just something to try
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96s2t
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cleaned the kill switch contacts and everything looked good and clean anyways. Had the bike idling and wiggled all the kill switch wires. The engine idled just fine. The problem acts like me operating the kill switch at highway speeds because it dies for only a second then restarts itself on the coast. I took off the air box and did the same thing...wiggled the wires while running. Then did the same thing to the front sprocket cover. No results. 👹
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96s2t
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will have lunch and try the ignition switch. Thanks.
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96s2t
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I had my lunch and went out to the bike, warmed it up and fiddled with the key in the ignition when it was running and no cut out. Took it for a ride and fiddled with it when running around town. No fault.
I also might add that it cuts out when cruising in a straight line and not when I am turning corners so this would make me think it is probably not a faulty wire around the steering stem from a wire that has broken from turning the handlebars back and forth.
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96s2t
Posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2018 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I talked to a local knowledgeable Buell guy and he said it may be elongated pins in the wiring harness that attach to to ECM. I am ordering the replacement pins and installing them. I will post my results.
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Swanthog
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2018 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm interested in learning more about this "elongated pins" problem.
That's a new one on me.
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96s2t
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2018 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Apparently when the ECM box is relocated, the pins are stressed by moving the ECM on an angle to the new position. I sense you are not buying this but I am willing to try anything at this point.
I can say that I had got the bike with the ECM moved presumably to avoid cracking it from seat weight then I had the rear shock replaced by a dealer and he relocated it to a different place and that is when I started to have the cutting out problem.
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Alchemy
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2018 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a thread from April of 2017 titled "Engine dies at speed" Check it out.

With the ECM there can be a number of problems reported but the root cause often (but not always) seems to be the ECM. It was kicking out codes that seemed to be temperature related which could make sense.

I went to the trouble of replacing the engine temp sensor (not fun) when at the end of the day it was the ECM. Race ECM fixed it. I never relocated the ECM but I think if properly done it would help.

Good luck. It is an annoying problem.
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