|Posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2018 - 10:23 pm: ||
UPDATE - Phelan helped me out with an XB12 TB and rebuilt fuel injectors (thank you Ross), I have the Dean Adams exhaust (thanks Dean), and the XB12 Header, all ceramic coated. Going to mount this stuff up, fire up the laptop, and start playing with fuel/timing.
As for the 1125, I bought - (nay, stole) - a 2008 Aprilia RSV1000R Factory (9,100mi) with Ohlins all around for $5,500 in Phoenix last December. That thing is like an angry rhino...amazing - street legal superbike. It finally shipped, arrives here next week.
(Message edited by skipbarberman on February 14, 2018)
|Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2018 - 11:15 pm: ||
OK, so just getting to this now...and no hurry as it's cold as hell here....38 today, should be upper 50s.
In any event, I bought the updated '07 oil pump and the bronze alloy gear. Have to relieve pressure on the rockers to get the cams out....and I'm only 4 bolts each from heads off.
With the XB12 intake and ceramic coated header, am I opening this stock 984 up too much and going to move the power band way up? Should I throw a 1050 kit on it now? Used my Snap-On bore scope and it's clearly a 15k motor....could use a fresh top end....not terrible, but not great. Then, do you send the heads out. Ugh, where does it end? First time 'rotating' the motor, and for the work, seems like I should at least consider it. Looking for some advice...motor seems to run fine now, plugs seem fine. Thoughts?
|Posted on Friday, April 20, 2018 - 10:04 am: ||
Well, there is no end to the rabbit hole unless you create a firm limit for yourself. If there is a place to bore the cylinders nearby, you could price that. Maybe just hone them and put in an oversize set of rings or go to the first overbore size.
Heads could have a lot done to them, but it will cost.
If I was doing it again, I would clean the heads up. Grind dimples in the intake all the way from just before the fuel injector down to the valve seat. Don't forget to dimple the valve guide where it sticks out into the airflow. I would also do the valve lightly, need a diamond cutter for this (Amazon was cheap).
I wouldn't try cutting the port larger, don't completely know what I'm doing and it should match fairly well as is. I would look carefully and make should the ports did mostly match and fix with a minimum of metal removed.
When I did the above on my little race bike, it made a big difference even with the junk clone carb that was still attached. The CNC dimples look great and work great, but sitting for several hours and grinding your own works as well.
see this: http://www.minigp-racing.com/joomla1/index.php/sku nk-works/44-project-2
|Posted on Monday, April 23, 2018 - 01:37 am: ||
Personally I would install what you got and ride this Summer (since Spring is cancelled). Other stuff is fun but a lot of money for little gain. I have to fast stuff I could sell you even at that, if you are insistent, but I think you will greatly enjoy it just with the mods you have now.
|Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 08:36 pm: ||
An idea that has little merit inside an engine intake port.
Been tried by experts, and demystified by the experts.
In drag racing and American engine'd road race engines...been tried and passed by years back. No NASCAR either.
And yea, an 4 stroke engine is a four stroke engine, no matter what it's bolted to.
Save your money/time.
Just "don't" polish the ports past the injector, leave the surface a little rough. Can be polished prior to the injector though.