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141stralifter
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did a search but did not come up with an answer. Has anyone done a DIY for changing out the exhaust Header. Specifically rear head.
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Nillaice
Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 01:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just rotate the engine like the manual says... You've got the manual, right!?!?!
I've tried both procedures, and the bigger headers on an xb12 are harder to work around.

Plus if a header stud snaps or is allready broken you'll have to rotate the engine for that
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Ducbsa
Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 05:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here are a few pages I have bookmarked (use the manual, too):

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/555917.html?1271477720

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/406 2/705005.html?1360071285

http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?16821- How-to-Rotate-your-engine-With-Pics!
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141stralifter
Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you for the help
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Shoggin
Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was able to remove the headers on my '08 STT very easily without engine rotate in less than an hour.

The only 'specialtiy' tools were a 7/8" crowfoot on a 6" extension for the O2 sensor, and a wobbly 6" extension for the rear header nuts, accessed from under the frame rail

After the nuts are off theres only ONE way it comes off the bike and I'm desperately trying to remember if it's front or rear first.... too much beer: (

It's easy enough that I'm doing it again soon to add a front O2, I'll try to remember to post up here.
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Mope
Posted on Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

without an engine rotation, I remove the front first, rotate the header and then slip out the rear. If you're really struggling, pulling the fan lets you see what's going on at the rear head.
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Submax
Posted on Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I replaced the exhaust header on my '09 XB12Ss this year. Tried doing it without rotating the engine as per several different threads on the forums. I could not get the header out that way. The rear header just did not have quite enough room to make it past the engine cooling fins and the frame no matter how I tried to wiggle it out. In the end, I went with rotating the engine via the manual and I wish I would have just done that from the beginning. It really was pretty easy. Maybe the Uly is different, but that was my experience. Good luck with it! Keep us posted!
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

XB12X had the same frame as lightning long and XBTT.

The engine is mounted on rubber so perhaps leaning on it just right would get you that additional 0.5mm of clearance?
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Submax
Posted on Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The rubber mounting was my guess for the culprit. It could be that there is just enough play in the rubber mounting that each bike might be slightly different in its clearance between the cooling fins and the frame so that some bikes have just enough for the header to make it out and some don't. I tried all sorts of incantations and nothing could get me that extra little clearance. So, rotating the engine was the way to go for me. And, in my opinion, there wasn't that much of a difference in the amount of work required to rotate the engine vs not rotate.
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141stralifter
Posted on Tuesday, September 12, 2017 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This may sound wierd but I was able to pull the old header or should I say the back half of the header off with a wobbly socket. I did not remove any other parts. I even pulled it out with the O2 sen still on. I do not think it will be that easy to put the new one back on but I think it can be done.
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Greg_e
Posted on Tuesday, September 12, 2017 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you snake the new header in there, and before trying to line it up on the studs put the O2 in there hand tight, I think you can do it. Wobbly extension or socket might have been all I needed when I tried it.
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Submax
Posted on Tuesday, September 12, 2017 - 08:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not really weird at all. I've read of other guys being able to do that. Glad that it worked for you! Seems consistent with what I said. I've read of other guys having my experience of not being able to get that header off that way. I think it comes down to the bike to bike variation of how the engine sits on the isolation mounts. Now go out there and buy a lottery ticket!
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