|Posted on Monday, November 21, 2016 - 11:19 am: ||
Perhaps I should just go by the book but once I got my bike I started studying. One thing that has been consistent is that it must be checked when the bike is warm.
Beyond that, I've read "it must be 3 minutes exactly after you shut off the bike", while others "check the oil with the bike running".
These two scenarios provide for very different readings. With the bike running, my oil is about half way of the X's but being off the oil doesn't even register on the dipstick.
You'd think this would be such a simple thing but I've read so many contradicting points of view...
I have a feeling that off it should be around the second X so when running it doesn't go past the max (top X)?
|Posted on Monday, November 21, 2016 - 12:18 pm: ||
I'm usually just pleased to see that it has enough oil to register on the dip stick, and I don't pre-occupy myself with how many seconds it has been shut off or the position of the moon and when the next ebb tide is.
check it when it is something consistent and repeatable for you, and trend it from there.
|Posted on Monday, November 21, 2016 - 04:48 pm: ||
I check mine hot, after a ride with the engine off. Take off gloves, helmet, jacket and stow them. If it's on the stick, I'm good. When I check it cold before a ride, it always reads something, or I might be concerned. Your mileage might vary.
|Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 10:21 pm: ||
Something I always try to do is when parked after a ride, leave bike idling when get off, take helmet , jacket off, and grab a rag. Half minute or so is how long that takes. Then check oil level at 2nd x is where I keep it after shutting motor off. Most gerotor oil pumps have the scavenge side to pump 30% more volume than pressure side, so your actually pulling oil out of crankcase and putting back in swing arm where is where it is needed for a quick level check. Just saying that's a feature of dry sump motors that most folks may or may not know about. Also if bike has set for a while, oil will drain into crankcase. Wife's 96 sporster is like this ,but oil tank is higher in frame , unlike our buells. Anyhow, when you get your own system of checking, results over time for your bike is what is important.
|Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 10:24 am: ||
Well it seems I'm a tad low. I like the rule, if the dipstick doesn't register, it's too low. I think the way it works out, when bike running it shouldn't read above max. When stopped, the oil drains back and you should at least register on dipstick or below the 2nd X.
|Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 11:35 am: ||
Some good advice and anecdote here.
First and foremost don't let it run low on oil, conversely don't over fill it either.
Here's my advice:
a.) Find, your bike's "full" reading.
b.) Change the oil and filter.
c.) Refill with exactly 2.5 quarts of oil.
d.) Start the engine, check for leaks, then let the bike run for 10 to 15 minutes.
(better take a ride of similar or longer duration)
e.) Return home then check the oil level per Livers or Sagehawk's procedure.
The level you see on the dip stick; that is your bike's full level...
Your experience may vary...
That said, using the above procedure, my '06 Ulysses oil level rarely lands on the X's
|Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 11:44 am: ||
When you say rarely lands on the X's, is it hot and after letting it drain back into the crankcase for a few minutes?
|Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 12:25 pm: ||
I check the level within 2 minutes, after shutting off the engine. Always park in garage in same place.