| Author | Message | ||
     Xb12r_guy |
Hello Fellow Buellers, Three weeks ago I was cruisin' down Interstate 4 in Florida (not a real interstate btw) and I heard a loud knocking sound. When I stopped at the rest stop, I took my helmet off to listen to the racket and it definitely sounds like the rod bearing is gone. So I got the bike towed back home and it sitting there since. I really miss the beast so I am soliciting help from the community in getting this thing back on the road. My mechanical skills are above par and I have a well assorted tool box. What I don't know is what options I have other than selling it "as is",getting a low miles motor(no budget) or rebuilding. It has a race ECM with the OEM race pipe and the K&N filter. SO I was considering buying a new crank assembly since HD doesn't sell the individual parts. I know for sure if I tear into it, I will need a full set of gaskets to properly rebuild the engine. If I can get the individual parts, is it possible to rebuild the crank itself. $700 for a new crank assembly. I might want to get a race version since I like pushing the engine frequently. Any thoughts? Thanks from Orlando, FL Ed | ||
| D_adams |
Gasket set online can be had for $125 or less, I got the Cometic set. I've heard Dark Horse Crankworks is the place to go for crank rebuilds, I'd call them. You may want to look hard at the oil pump as part of the rebuild. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sorry to hear that. If you confirm the crank failure, would you be willing to share the VIN? We are tracking failures here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/648773.html?1374261251 | ||
| Ducbsa |
How many miles on the bike? 21k miles '07 XB12S owner here, so interested. | ||
| Greg_e |
I think I would tear the cylinders off and check the bearing to see what happened. I had a similar noise that I thought was the crank and it turned out to just be out of round cylinders letting pistons slop. You do have a suspect year so you might not be as lucky. Then you can decide on new/rebuilt crank, and also possibly new cylinders/pistons and a valve job. Still probably going to end up with $1000 to $3000 depending on what you do. | ||
| Firemanjim |
First check the stator nut as they sound like crank is bad when they come loose. | ||
| Greg_e |
If the crank needs to come out that needs to come off anyway doesn't it? | ||
| Sifo |
True, but it would be kind of silly to pull all the top end off only to find the bottom end bearings are tight and it was just the stator nut that you haven't gotten to yet. It's a good point to check it, before even rotating then engine. It it turns out to be tight, like you said, it eventually has to come off anyway. | ||
| Greg_e |
No, I was saying that you might as well check it first because it may need to come off anyway, and you can do it with the engine still in the frame so it is far easier. If you pull the engine, make sure to drain the transmission to, far easier to drain in the frame than later, found this out the hard way. |
