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Jraice
Posted on Monday, December 02, 2013 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Last time I did this I found a really nice detailed tutorial on here... Anybody know what I am talking about or have any other good resources? I would search, but for some reason the search function isn't working for me...?

Let me know if anyone has any good resources to supplement the manual. I am away for a month and my father (good mechanic) wants to take care of it for me as a little weekend project for himself. I have done it once before so he will be installing an identical plate pack, which helps, but any other resources or tips are great!
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Nillaice
Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2013 - 03:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=prev&topic=32777&page=643575

aside from a muffled 'squeak' noise when starting hard off the line (presumably from energy one not using/providing a judder plate and spring in their 'extra-plate' clutch packs), the energy one clutch pack has been working very well for me. now with some 33 Kmi on the clock
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Jraice
Posted on Wednesday, December 04, 2013 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure what that link is for...

Nobody knows where I can find the great post with pics of each step for the Barnett kit?
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Nillaice
Posted on Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 04:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I posted the link cuz I put pictures in that thread that kinda show how I compressed the clutch spring. I used some 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipe and angle iron I had laying around. You can make your own with a tuna can and a piece of flat metal

\ sarcasm {
I would search for it for you, but it must be the sane reason as it was for you that the search function isn't working for me either.
}

I don't know what thread you saw. But Give it a few days, maybe some one will find it for you of the search function will work. Did you try a google image search? ... You said it had a lot if detailed pictures. Did you check Buell mods or twin websites for the tutorial? Twin is great about supporting buellers and it sounds like something they would document and post up
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Al_lighton
Posted on Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't have a tutorial for it, but the process is pretty straightforward, with ONE exception.

Once you have the clutch spring compressor in position and the spring compressed JUST far enough to take the tension off the retaining rings, you need to remove the retaining ring. But it isn't obvious how to get it out, because the actual retaining ring sits in a seat ring that has an L cross section. That L shape keeps you form being able to make the retaining ring smaller to get it out of the grooves. So what you need to do is rotate that retaining ring while lifting one end of it so that it "threads" out of the groove. Installation is the reverse of that, you need to "thread" it in. This is why that ring should not be re-used (as per the service manual). It is very easy to deform it during the "threading" process.

Once you have the ring out, the pressure plate comes off and you have access to the plates themselves. It's usually easy enough to remove them, especially on the XB series. But on the tubers with that gosh darned grenade plate in the middle of the stackup, a burr often develops in the clutch basket that can sometimes prevent easy extraction of the plates behind it. If there are any burrs in the basket, you should spend some time with a dremel tool to deburr them as much as possible, both to make it easier to install the plates, and also to ensure that the plates don't hang in the basket when the clamping load is removed from them during operation. My S1W basket was so badly burred that it needed to be replaced (at about 35K). The grenade plate was toast at that mileage, but I've seen it happen at much lower mileage than that.

One other thing...that ring that shouldn't be reused has had the wrong part number in the parts manuals for years. There are two retaining rings. One holds the throwout mechanism into the pressure plate. The other is the ring discussed above, that holds the spring in place. The parts manuals list the throwout ring as 37908-90, and the spring ring as 37909-90. But that's backwards. The spring ring is 37908-90, and the throwout ring as 37909-90. The 1995 S2 manual is backwards, the 2010 XB manual is backwards, and EVERY manual in between has been backwards. I have no idea why it has never been corrected.

The correct part for the spring retention, 37908-90, is this one: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17526.html This is the part that should NOT be re-used.

The correct part for retaining the throwout mechanism in the pressure plate is 37909-90, here: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17525.html This part can be re-used without any issues.

Al
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