| Author | Message | ||
     Buelllord |
Hi gang, I am attempting to change the rear wheel pulley for a new one and do you reckon I can get the bolts out. I am heating them with a small blow torch and so far have destroyed 3 Torx fittings and the bolts have not budged. Any suggestions???????? buelllord | ||
| Ducbsa |
I read recently (where, can't remember) that hardened torx bits are available. This, in the right size, looks good. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-26650-T-55-Torx-Socket /dp/B0002NYBZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379849351&s r=8-1&keywords=Lisle+26650 If the bolt head sockets are chewed up, you may have a bigger job on your hands. | ||
| Doz |
Try not heating the bolts themselves but the surrounding area/ cooling the bolts and using an impact driver. | ||
| Ericz |
Those Lisle bits are very brittle. The best torx bits are from Snap-on. They have two different torx inserts, one that is black in color and another that is yellow/gold. The yello/gold inserts are the best but you may have to hunt one down. Doz is right that you should heat the wheel where the bolts thread into at the back of the pulley instead of heating the bolts. | ||
| Froggy |
Last time I had to do the Sprocket, I took the wheel to my father's shop. He used an impact gun and probably Snap-On (or similar pro grade) bits, the bolts came out like nothing. No heat required. | ||
| Meggadeath |
Most likely, you are going to destroy a couple of torx bits. I like the hand impact tool for this kind of job as the action of striking the tool with a hammer keeps the bit in contact with the bolt head while simultaneously applying rotational force and is most apt to break the Loc-tite on the bolts free. Air tools WILL work, but in my opinion will also destroy more bits. I used to buy the commonly used sizes in bulk, and although SK's were very good (and have a lifetime warranty), the Lisle brand (two-piece) were a much better value. The single-piece Lisle variety were almost always single-use and frustratingly fragile. | ||
| Buelllord |
Thanks guys, The snap-on truck comes past on Thursday so will grab one of those. I was heating the bolts to try and break down the thread lock that Eric likes so much. Will try some Loctite freeze and release when I attempt it again next weekend. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Thanks for the tip on Lisle. I don't know why I didn't look for the SnapOn tool? | ||
| Teeps |
EriczPosted on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - The best torx bits are from Snap-on. Roger That! Froggy Posted on Sunday, September 22, 2013 an impact gun and probably Snap-On (or similar pro grade) bits, the bolts came out like nothing. No heat required. Yes it's good to have a 1/2 inch impact gun. Air or electric will do. That's what I used on mine when switching to the 2010 rear wheel. | ||
| Sifo |
I'm just curious, those who say to heat the wheel, what are you heating with? I would expect a torch would burn the powder coat pretty quickly, long before you break down the LocTite. Heating the bolt does work because the heat will travel down the bolt and break down the LocTite, but you will still likely burn powder coat on the pulley unless you have a good torch with a fine tip. We pull bolts out all the time at work by heating the bolt to soften the LocTite, but we don't have to worry about scorched paint. It works well even though you are expanding the bolt in the hole. I'm not meaning to be argumentative here at all. There's lots of ways to skin a cat. I'm just hoping to further knowledge. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I got it done with a sharp smack with a brass drift+hammer. Then the sockets. I had no issues. Learned this trick from dealing with my X1 rotor and pulley. The locktite and corrosion are brittle but the steel and aluminum are not(as much!) |
