| Author | Message | ||
     Darth_buell |
I know it's gunna sound corny, but I used Pro-long in my truck and it increased gas mileage which means less work the engine is doin any way u look at it. Has anyone used anything like that on their baby's. | ||
| Teeps |
I've used ZDDP aditive. The fuel economy did not change, if that's what you are looking for. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Just be aware that most of the bearings in our bikes are ball bearings and roller bearings while cars typically have plain bearings. I'm too chicken to try anything at all. I simply don't know what if anything it would do. | ||
| Livers |
If you're running a good synthetic, leave it alone. | ||
| Trojan |
Most modern oils have additives in them, and a good fully synthetic will be better than a mineral oil with and additive in it. A lot of oil additives don't actually do anything for longevity or mileage, so don't waste money on them. As Natex says, the majority are also made for car engines, which need different oil characteristics than our 'old' air cooled motors. Save the money you would spend on an additive and buy a good synthetic oil instead  | ||
| Darth_buell |
I'm using mobile 1. Just thought someone might have some good points of it. Thanks fellas. | ||
| Trojan |
MObil 1 V-Twin is excellent and certainly won't need any additives Make sure it is Mobil1 V-Twin though, and not just Mobil 1 multigrade designed for cars. | ||
| Greg_e |
Even the Mobile1 4T is not very good, at least not for me last year, went back to the V twin version this year. | ||
| Trojan |
Most modern 4 stroke oils are designed for higher revving water cooled bikes/cars, so have completely diffeent additives to the ones required for hotter running, slower revving bikes like ours (1125 excluded of course). This is why H-D always say that if you can't get a H-D specific oil use an oil for diesel cars instead aas a temporary measure. Oils designed for air cooled engines will have different anti foaming and detargent additives, so stick to something designed specifically for air cooeld engines. I know there are people that will say they have run their Buell for 300,000 miles on used cooking oil and sawdust without any problems, but that's internet forums for you and they will be an exception. I wouldn't recommend it  Our bikes run very hot and have a relatively tiny oil capacity, so the oil has to work very hard at lubricating AND cooling. My advice is to use the best H-D/V-Twin specific oil you can afford and change it as regularly as clockwork. The book may say 5,000 miles but I have always changed at 3,000 or less on air cooled motors. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I buy the highest quality full synthetic that I can find made by a company that supports the EBR race team. | ||
| Sifo |
Step 1) Drain oil. Step 2) Add Amsoil. Step 3) Ride.  | ||
| Ktmguy |
Funny, I did a quick cheap oil change to 20/50 dino oil to see if it quieted down the top end any. It did a tad, however this morning on my way to work in 68 degree temps, my fan came on for the first time ever on that particular route. (about 12 miles mixed 70% city/ 30% backroad driving). That tells me alot. I will be reverting back to the synthetic oil very quickly! |
