| Author | Message | ||
     Alstroker |
First, what type a viscosity of oil does buell put in the xb from the factory. I want to get compatible oil in case I need to add some. Second my idle speed seems a little low. It is below 1000rpm. I tried turning the idle adjuster knob but it doesn't seem to be solidly mounted and I cant get it to turn. It just seems to twist the tube that it is attached to. | ||
| Prof_stack |
20W/50 oil, probably HD360. | ||
| Blake |
Any xxW50 weight engine oil will be compatible with any other. Not sure about your idle adjustment problem. Let your dealer take a look at it next time you head out there. | ||
| Darthane |
Al, are you using your fingers to twist it, or an allen wrench? | ||
| Alstroker |
I tried my fingers and an allen wrench but it just didn't turn. I may have to disassemble some stuff so I can take a closer look at it. | ||
| Darthane |
Use the allen wrench, just for future reference. Mine's always been a bit 'sticky', but did turn. It took more of a turn than you might think to get it to make a noticeable difference in the idle, though. | ||
| Stonecoldbuellin |
Use the star wrench that comes in the toolkit, Mine does the same thing,also adjust your idle when the bike is HOT or itll hang at 2000 when it does warm up. | ||
| Opto |
Whats the 525EXC like, I'm interested in getting one or something similar to save the XB12 from the dirt roads, it handles dirt really well but it's like putting the princess in the kitchen. | ||
| Opto |
To answer your original question, use 20/50 that is compatible with light diesel engines, must have the diesel approval. The idle speed adjuster has some flex, just turn it a bit further than you would expect using allen key and you will hear the idle speed change. | ||
| Trenchtractor |
API C (CH, CG, whatever, so long as it's got a C) is the standard you need your oil to meet. That's the diesel bit. It's got to do with diesels having a greater demand on their oils as do our air cooled Buells (deposit control, temp, etc). API S is for petrol engines. Far less demand placed on the oil in a water cooled petrol engine. I feel a dedicated 100% synth API C is better than an API S/C dual purpose... There are certain parts of an API C that contradict the design brief of the API S... So I guess it's like it meets the standard, but do you REALLY trust it?? Also, you shouldn't add API S 20W50 to API C 20W50. The additives in an API C are generally not compatable with the additives in API S, and chemical properties of oils can change readily. Once you have that API C sorted, pick a grade that suits your climate (season, weather, etc), 20W50 usually covers most general climates, but those that are living with snow at winter might want to change into something a little more comfortable... Interesting data: In oxidation testing, Mobil found HD360 20W50 stated to 'break down' after 72 hours of operation at 300*F... In the same test Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 did not break down after 256 hours. | ||
| Alstroker |
Opto, my 520exc is awesome. It is the best dirt bike I have ever owned hands down and I have been riding since I was 6yrs. old. I can take it to the woods and haul butt and then go to the MX track and clear 70' jumps. It is really a do it all machine. Just like the XB drew me in with its torque the 520 has loads of it. You see these guys on other bikes that are constantly bouncing off the rev limiters...that's not how I ride. I am not a revver. I like my power down low and in the mid range that way you don't have to work as hard. This bike is great and with it's six speed gear box you can nearly do 100mph is stock trim. I have owned this bike for two years and I plan on keeping it another four. When I do trade it in it will probably be on another 525exc. | ||
| Odie |
Breakdown in 72 hours!!!! In East LA it has been 110 with the heat index and when I sit in traffic on the way thru the gate I know that rear cylinder (and the front for that matter) are boiling hot. I've been running Syn3 since my second oil change at 1000 miles and it still looks clean like I just changed it. | ||
| Southernmarine |
I can't find Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 here in Yuma. Jims HD has the HD Screaming Eagle 20W50 synthetic, so far the only ones I have found to have any 20W50 period. I've got one more store to check out, then I'll have to ask if someone will order it. | ||
| Blake |
"Also, you shouldn't add API S 20W50 to API C 20W50. The additives in an API C are generally not compatible with the additives in API S, and chemical properties of oils can change readily." That is opposite of what I understand from oil industry engineers. For instance, quite a few of the better engine oils meet both the S (spark) and C (compression) requirements and are so labeled. There is a BUNCH of myth and misinformation about engine oil/lubrication that runs rampant in the moto world these days, so it's best to double check any info you think might be valid but are not absolutely certain.  | ||
| Trenchtractor |
A lot of that info I posted is based on an article by Chuck Goldmann, who you could say is a bit of a HD fan, he also happens to have lead the design team in developement of Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50. The article was in response to propagation of said myths about oils (car vs bike, etc)... Basically (quoting the article would take all night), the concept is that oil has additives. He says you must take into consideration the entire 'system', not just the indervidual components. Blake, you are correct in that there are oils out there that do meet both API C & S standards, the auto parts joint my brother works at keeps an oil from each brand they sell that meets both standards. However, those oils are CAREFULLY DESIGNED with meeting that dual standard in mind. What I was trying to say was if you were to take an engine that has oil that only meets API C, and add to that a dedicated API S oil (say to top up), some of the additives from either oil may in fact work against each other. In essence, just saying it's a 20W50 oil isn't good enough. At the end of the day, the bottle of oil you use in your Buell should have API C on it. That's the important bit. The next thing is, you need to CHOOSE the weight (multigrade) that suits your climate (coldest vs hottest temp you get). In your owners manual it should detail the weight you need for the temp range where you ride. Also, Southern, I would use S-E Synth if it wasn't so damn expensive in Australia. I can buy a 4L or 5L bottle of top grade Motul 100% Synth API C & S 10W60 (from memory, perhaps 15W60) for about $50AUD RRP (I pay closer to $30AUD), but the 4 quarts of S-E synth for the engine and tranny change would set me back about $100AUD. You probably don't have to put up with a price differential like that. |
