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Archive through August 18, 2004Cowtown30 08-18-04  02:42 pm
         

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Stonecoldbuellin
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I removed the american motorcycles sticker.
all u gotta do is let it sit in the sun for an hour or so n peel em off with ur fingernail.
IF U HAVE A ZERO GRAVITY DOUBLE BUBBLE MAKE SURE YOU PUT YOUR GLOVES OR SOMTHING UNDER THE WINDSCREEN OR IT CAN AND WILL MELT YOUR GAUGES!!!
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Stealthxb
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 03:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Cowtown...

to remove the stickers,
use a hair dryer or heat gun and they will peel right off
then use WD40 or GooGone to remove the sticky residue
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Darthane
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 03:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

LOL...recent trouble with the sun, Donnie?

I used a hair dryer, they came off easily. Washed the bike and no more residue. Since I took mine off immediately there's no trace of them (no sun fading, for instance) at all.
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Stonecoldbuellin
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

a LITTLE bit.
im gonna paint the lower half of the inside of the screen,mabye stencil out some flames on contact paper first n kinda ghost flame the inside.
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Darthane
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That's the exact reason I bought the new Buell cover. Packs into the tailbag. Off the bike - on goes the cover. Keeps birdshit and rain out, too! LOL
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Stonecoldbuellin
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have to carry a UBERGAY orange reflective vest and an overstuff toolkit in there.Im thinking the spray paint will work fine.
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Jerseyguy
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I took off the "American Motorcycles" too. It just looked cheesy to me. Heat gun & Googone took care of it on the yellow plastics with no residue or mark.

Donny - I still don't agree with Brion's stack design, but I must admit he did a very nice job on the manufacture of that 12 nipple. I'm working on an aluminum one for myself.
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Odie
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I finally had the chance to mess around with the low end power after drilling my airbox and found out that it wheelies MUCH easier now; and that's with the stock filter still. Cheap fun to be had by all............
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M1combat
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 06:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think that nipple might diffuse the intake pulse as well?
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 02:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jersey,
Are you planning on running some dyno tests? If so, can I get you to include a stock XB12 lid and then an XB12 lid all swiss cheesed with holes.

M1, is right, in addition to improving inlet flow efficiency, the nipple also effectively lengthens the intake tract for optimum harmonic performance of the inlet's transient airflow. Fancy way of saying that it works better when a bit longer. : )
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Stonecoldbuellin
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 02:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

And just a BIT offcenter.
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 02:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Oh, just one other thing. The 0.59" gap between velocity stack and top of airbox lid might seem small and restrictive, but when you calculate the cross sectional are of the inlet at that radius (multiply the 0.59" of the gap by the circumference) you end up with a surprisingly LARGE cross sectional inlet area, far larger than that offered by the throttle body. So it is not restrictive in the least. : )

If that is hard to imagine, think of the 0.59" gap as it wraps 360 deg around the inlet. Imagine you can unwrap it and lay it out flat. Then you would have a long rectangle that is 0.59" tall by about 15" long; that amounts to about 9 square inches of inlet area! Relative to the throttle body with only about 2.5 sq inches of cross sectional area, so that 0.59" gap provides a pretty sizable inlet no? : )
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Jerseyguy
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Blake,
Excellent point on the relationship of the two areas. I don't really have access to a Dyno locally so I'm kind of stuck with SOP impressions - unfortunately not to accurate.

I had to make my nipple design a bit different than the 12s as the "roof" of my airbox cover protrudes down into the filter .3" and the 12s "roof" protrudes down a bit over .5". I have a similar shape but its taller .2" and larger in diameter to feather the edge out. I tried to hold a similar relationship of the velocity stack to the nipple. I think the effect will be similar. I'll post a CAD pic on Monday when I get to work.

All 3 of our CNC lathes are making titanium parts for military helicopters right now and I can't break in for a couple of weeks tho make the nipple.

One other observation this week. It seems that my frame (gas tank) is running cooler since I modified the intake area & I think the fan is coming on less too. It might just be my imagination and I'm going to watch it closely.
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Rigga
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

as any one got the part number handy of the 12 airbox lid??

martin
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99buellx1
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

P0215.1AA
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Rigga
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

thanx for that....
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Blake
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 12:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jersey,

Thanks also for dispelling that silly myth that the nipple is off center to improve performance. That was one of the silliest things I've heard. If it is off-center on some bikes, it is a mistake. There is no good reason I know to induce a non-axi-symetric flow into the throttle body. Doing so would only lead to inefficiencies.
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Martin
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 02:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My bike ran a ton cooler after I fitted the PC3 and put more fuel in. I even thought that I might have affected the fan after I moved it to install the O2 sensor. The fuel curve as standard did not look so weak, though.
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M1combat
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 03:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I guess I never looked at my nipple to see if it was off center... I just heard it was ; ).
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Oconnor
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 03:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Why not cut the center of the 12 cover and bolt it like jerseyguys clear plastic piece. No cnc'ing needed, and you have the nipple in the right spot. Hmm that gives me an idea.
Jersey guy, how'd you attach that piece again?
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M1combat
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 03:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You could do that on a 9, but on the 12 that box also hold the motor that controls the exhaust valve.
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Trenchtractor
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 07:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I put my servo motor under the seat. But mines different to everyone elses...



So, I've got the stock muffler, servo motor, no airbox, K&N... It rocks, but i feel the muffler has too much back pressure and i am noticing it coughs more often when cold. But then it's possible i can just hear it cough more...
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Jerseyguy
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Oconnor, Somebody has already done that. I'm sorry but I don't remember the thread.

I just took 2 stainless rods and tapped either end for a 1/4-20 button head cap screw. Some guys use threaded rod and double nut the bottom to the lower airbox.
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Jerseyguy
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Trench - You need a DRUMMER!
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Trenchtractor
Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah, but ask Opto how much it costs to get one here... I think you'll find his bill over $900.

I can have a local muffler built for less than half that in pollished stainless steel.

Don't get me wrong, a drummer'd be nice, but there's nice and there's my-wife-will-leave-me-cos-I-spent-too-much.
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Cowtown
Posted on Monday, August 30, 2004 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Pictures as promised. It was very cloudy Saturday, I think they would have turned out better if the sun were out. One thing I noticed is the airbox looks a lot lighter blue than the City-X with the inner airbox. When I finish with the flyscreen I’ll post more pics. So what do yall think?




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Oconnor
Posted on Monday, August 30, 2004 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

how'd you reroute the breather tubes?
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Cowtown
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here’s how I ran the breathers. I turned the valves so they are pointed at each other along the right side of the frame. I ran a hose between them with a T in the middle pointing down. I cut just enough hose to use as a connector to attach another T with the ends pointing down and forward. I ran a clear hose down a couple of inches past the frame so I can see when any oil collects and plugged it. I ran another hose forward and up over the rocker cover following the curve of the frame along the front and then back along the left side of the frame. I attached a crankcase filter behind the coil.
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Jerseyguy
Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Cowtown - Looks real good. Now cut away as much of the lower airbox box as you can.
I wish they made the "tank" in a light smoke color.
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