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Archive through February 16, 2013Xb9er30 02-16-13  07:43 pm
Archive through January 31, 2013Sifo30 01-31-13  12:36 pm
Archive through January 07, 2013Xxxue30 01-07-13  03:20 pm
Archive through November 19, 2012Ericz30 11-19-12  08:16 pm
         

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Bern
Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 04:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is one frikken sweet lookin bike
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Ducxl
Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 08:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stunning,no matter my past posts.You have IT.Oh yeah i'd dial the HP back but that'd be MY choice if it were mine.ROCK-ON.

I had thought Hyabusa too but the XB is more attractive AND MUCH simpler/lighter.
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Tq_freak
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2013 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eric
Your bike it KILLER and always has.
If you need help with anything let me know.
I have a small press with a load cell attached here at work and I can take some force measurements for you if needed.

Let me know.
If you over this way give me a shout, I need to see this bike in person again.
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Ericz
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2013 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks everyone! Tq_freak, I'm returning the Evo. Ind. clutch and going back to a diaphragm spring but thanks for the offer! I'll keep you in mind when I do head that way on the bike.

Here is the latest video, unedited and full length. I bought a GoPro suction cup mount and attached it to the top of the tank/airbox cover. It is much more steady than the handlebar mount but still allows the camera to vibrate enough to make the video funky in some parts. More details about the video are in the Youtube description.

http://youtu.be/HKa942UPhVU
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Kdogshirow
Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fantastic !!
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H2opatrol
Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I cant believe how tame it is when you aren't on the throttle. It's the absolute definition of mild to wild. Beautiful machine man!
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Tq_freak
Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yea I noticed that too.
It looks super mild manured around town and just cruising. But when you twist the wick the nose is in the air before you can blink.

just imagine if Erik actually got this out of the factory like he intended in 03.



Oh is that the clutch slipping around the 6 min mark?
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Ericz
Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, guys! It is so much fun to ride!

Yup, that's the clutch slipping. I plan to have a new clutch built for it this weekend and try it on the dyno sometime next week.
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Motorbike
Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is so cool, thanks for taking us along! Great job on the bike, nice work!
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Xbgeorge
Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2013 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ericz,
Thanks for ignoring all the vinegar flowing out of the douche bags. The rest of us have enjoyed this build. Keep up our dream work.
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Sticks
Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2013 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, your work inspires Buell folks. I always check out your progress. Pretty cool. Damn. Just, damn.

Keep it up. Please.
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Ericz
Posted on Monday, February 25, 2013 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

More ignorance....I'm going to cry!

I ordered a 480lb diaphragm clutch spring from AIM. I received it and it has "480" written on it and "Energy One" stamped on it.

I have also been talking to Kent, owner of Energy One, and he has shipped me a whole box full of clutch fibers, steels, and every diaphragm spring they make that will fit. Kent says that they have a load cell and can and have tested every spring design they make. He says that their stiffest spring is no more than ~400lbs at the stock preload. Hmmmm....

Here is a picture of the "480lb"spring from AIM and another picture of the "480lb" AIM spring on Left and the "400lb" Energy One spring on Right:



I also talked with Ben at Rivera-Primo about their springs. I asked him what the spring rate is of their "Gold" diaphragm spring (what I used to run with the Barnett CF plates and held ~150ft-lbs)) and he told me "spring rates don't mean anything" and the only thing that matters is what bike it is in. Hmmmm? That's just plain ignorance.

Regardless, I have another Rivera-Primo Gold spring on order and, if I can convince my lab instructor, I will be testing the spring rates myself and reporting back.

I will be installing the stiffest of the diaphragm springs and will try out the Energy One clutch fibers and testing what it will handle.

Kent, of Energy One, has been EXTREMELY helpful AND generous by helping me get to the bottom of all the clutch "information" that is out there and, like I mentioned earlier, has supplied me with a plethora of clutch pieces and parts to try out. He used to be the GM of Barnett for over 20 years and really knows the history of the H-D/Buell aftermarket clutch business.

If that stuff does not hold up, I have plan B already figured out. I will modify a stock XL clutch hub to work with the XB basket by welding on a spline extension to the back side of the hub and installing a spacer, thrust washer, and needle bearing race to correctly position the hub in the XB basket. I will machine a new, longer hub nut to install the longer splines on the stock mainshaft.

I will also have to modify the primary cover to make more space for the thicker clutch pack. I will use a TBD thickness of the gasket surface from a sacrificial primary cover and weld it to the existing primary cover gasket surface. I will weld up and re-thread the primary chain tensioner thread to maintain proper alignment of the tensioner with the chain, and cut and extend the shift shaft by the same TBD amount.

All of this work will allow me to run a 9 plate clutch pack on a XL hub, all in an XB basket (sprung compensator) and install an AIM VPC if the 9 plate upgrade is not sufficient.

If you read this far, I know it may sound like a lot of work, but these challenges are what I enjoy. I think I can make all this happen while maintaining a near stock look to the primary area.
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Blownharley
Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eric, you are probably aware of this but it is also very important to shim the spring to the right height. I was using Pro Clutch on one of my Drag Bikes earlier and since there were no springs stiff enough i had to stack two on top of each other.. No fun to disengage! I ended up with a Bandit clutch - end of the clutch issues
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Fast1075
Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 - 04:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is going to sound weird, so bear with me, and maybe I have gone off the deep end here.

I think somewhere I saw that with a road race slipper clutch , you use ATF for gearbox oil. I know that a lot of automobile manual transmissions use ATF. Does the ATF help the clutch bite?

Years ago I owned a big block Chevelle that ate clutch packs. I found a guy that built transmissions that told me to use type F fluid in the transmission because it had an additive that helped keep the plates from slipping. I rebuilt the transmission and went to type F and never had another problem with no other changes.
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Ducxl
Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 - 07:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

I ended up with a Bandit clutch - end of the clutch issues




I too had help from Bandit.And the clutch he recommended required extensive modification to my cover.Their clutch(while being the end-all) would've stuck out another 2 inches or so.There ARE solutions,but that was where i stopped.

Call Bandit
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Ducxl
Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 - 08:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

will modify a stock XL clutch hub to work with the XB basket by welding




Be careful what you're welding.My starter ring began to slip(press fit)and Bandit decided to weld it to the basket.Funny thing,later when trying to start it the starter would spin with out engaging.Or so i thought.The starter ring got TEMPERED and the teeth were worn AWAY at every weld
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Blownharley
Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2013 - 12:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


Years ago I owned a big block Chevelle that ate clutch packs. I found a guy that built transmissions that told me to use type F fluid in the transmission because it had an additive that helped keep the plates from slipping. I rebuilt the transmission and went to type F and never had another problem with no other changes


Yes, when I was running oil in the transmission I was mixing 75% ATF and 25% transmission oil. If you're using 100% ATF it will eat up your transmission chain in no time.. The mixed oil worked better for me and could handle more HP.
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Ericz
Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I could write a book on all the tests I have run and data I have collected over the past month but here is the abridged version:

In an effort to build the most capable clutch using the HD designed clutch basket and hub from a XL and/or an XB, I tested a bunch of aftermarket diaphragm springs. I will post a link to my website page as soon as I find time to organize my findings in an easy-to-understand format, but the diaphragm spring that provides the most force at the installed height on an XL or XB clutch assembly is a Rivera-Primo silver spring. They advertise their gold spring as being the strongest, but that's just not the case.

I also tested 3 different clutch packs. A carbon fiber kit from Barnett in an XB clutch assembly, an Energy One Kevlar clutch kit in an XL clutch assembly, and an Alto Carbonite kit in an XL clutch assembly. All clutch packs used the Rivera-Primo silver diaphragm spring. The Energy One XL kevlar clutch pack held a maximum of ~145 ft-lbs of torque and started to slip around 120ft-lbs. The Barnett Carbon Fiber XB clutch pack held a maximum of ~150ft-lbs and started to slip around 120ft-lbs, and the Alto Carbonite XL clutch pack held a maximum of ~158ft-lbs and started to slip around 120ft-lbs. All the clutch packs were run in Belray 80W Gear Saver fluid.

So now I have the Alto clutch pack and Rivera-Primo silver diaphragm spring. I will work towards the install of an AIM Variable Pressure Clutch assembly behind the stock primary cover which should add some holding power to the current clutch pack.

Here is the latest dyno run from today. This dyno run peak boost pressure was 21psi at around 4500rpm but it held 19psi from about 470orpm till redline. The lower graph shows the clutch begins to slip around 4000rpm and continues until redline. Simple math tells me that I would see around 220hp if the torque curve stayed above 150ft-lbs until redline: )

I also included some pics of the Jet Hot Extreme 2000 coated exhaust, new black front forks, and new GSG front brake reservoir installed:











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Sifo
Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

NICE!
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Glitch
Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 07:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brilliant
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Kdogshirow
Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2013 - 11:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Amazing as usual !!
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Ericz
Posted on Sunday, August 11, 2013 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is the latest dyno numbers. With a different clutch spring and two people on the back of the bike during the dyno run more power was transferred to the dyno drum. You can see the comparison between the last 185hp run and the latest in the second chart below. This run was at Gainesville HD, where I have done most of my dyno work. I look forward to putting the bike on the brand new Dynojet 250ix dyno a friend is getting in the next month or so. I will be able to compare the slip on the new dyno to the slip at G'ville HD's dyno to sort out if it is still a clutch issue or only tire slipping. If I can get all the power to the dyno, I'm sure it will be over 200hp: )


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