| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
Finally got everything back together and fired it up... Just as it finished spitting assembly lube out of the cylinders and started to idle correctly smoke starts to build: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v329/Greg_E/XB9R /DSCF0752.jpg Guess I need to pull the front head back off and replace those O rings. | ||
| Greg_e |
Can I fix these without pulling the head? | ||
| Glitch |
I don't think so. I'm really looking forward to your report on the finished build! You've done what I've been thinking about forever. I'm still gonna wait to hit 100K if I can, before I do. | ||
| Greg_e |
I suggest you collect some heads so that you can reduce the time to a minimum. Send the heads out for new valves and valve job, have them shipped back with the 1050 kit and gasket kit. If concerned about rust while waiting, spray them with Corrosion-X and stick them in a bag, vacuum the air out if you want to be real thorough. Buy the rubber push rod cover base gaskets (not included in the gasket kit), buy exhaust header gaskets (I seem to only have one of them in my kit). Buy Hylomar just because. Maybe buy extra o rings for push rod cover top end so when you do what I did you have the parts in hand. I would also suggest Feuling Lifters and new oil pump gear while you are inside. You might also want to do little end rod bearings. With 100,000 you might consider having the crank balanced and big end bearing replaced. Might also be time for new rockers and pushrods. Check cams for wear. I also did an XB12 throttle body and injectors. I was going to do a 12 header but after looking at it, it didn't have the front o2 bung installed like I thought it did (has a sniffer bung for dyno work installed) so I decided to keep the 9 header for now and get a proper o2 bung welded into the front so I can do the tuning closer to right. The injectors were sent out for cleaning and matching, or you could buy new injectors: http://www.fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/index.p hp?_a=viewProd&productId=235 You could also go with higher rate injectors but I'm not sure this would be a good idea because the dwell time will need to be MUCH shorter and the spray may be worse, which is why I decided to have mine serviced. All that work would probably run you $4000- $5000. I'm in for at least $2500 just for the parts and headwork and I didn't keep very good track of the costs. I would have liked to have the crank balanced and maybe take a look inside the transmission and see if I could make it work a little more smoothly (undercut the gears, new parts in the shift mech., etc). In short you should probably locate an nice modern 08+ engine with the larger crank, gather the conversion bits, and start from there. If not and you have all the pieces gathered and check to make sure things like the head gasket fits correctly on the pins, you should be able to tear it down and put it back together in a weekend. I will strongly suggest buying new rocker main bolts, wire wheel the thread lock off, tap out the heads, and apply loctite while putting it back together. I also recommend going against the manual and rotating the engine so that you have both valves as closed as possible when trying to do the rocker box, you can rotate back into position later to bleed the lifters down. If not you risk snapping the new main rocker box bolts like I did. Also think about stock size jugs and pistons... The NRHS jugs seem to be stock size that they bore out so you might save some money with stock bore and stock sized new pistons/rings. Had I known this I might have optioned for the stock size to keep the price down. I don't think there will be an appreciable amount of power gained by going with the 1050 size increase, especially not with the stock exhaust on my bike. To increase power I would probably ditch the base gaskets (hylomar to the rescue), go with 0.020 or 0.030 head gaskets, and adjustable pushrods (required) and spring push rod tubes (or some other push rod tube) also required squish clearance check and machine if needed. Then move to exhaust (if you haven't already) with the 12 header, double o2 for tuning and a not restrictive muffler. I would also go with the manifold pressure mod, and create a ram air setup around the headlights (nice high pressure area). Might also step up to the larger cylinder kit and machining needed to really make a monster (as long as I'm spending your money). | ||
| Buelliedan |
The NRHS 1050(XB9) and 1250(XB12) kits use a custom cylinder designed just for the big bore kits. We do not use stock cylinders as the liners are way too thin for boring out that big. Our cylinders use a custom stepped liner that is approx 3/8" thick even when bored out to the 3.563 bore size. A stock liner would only be about 1/16" thick if bored out that big which is way too thin. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Greg, You need to install the o-rings up into the heads first, then slide the plastic pushrod tubes up into them. (Message edited by buelliedan on March 19, 2012) | ||
| Greg_e |
The liners are indeed much thicker, but from the sheet it looked like they started with a stock bore size and then you machine them out for the larger pistons. The part of the jug that fits down into the case is very thin after it has been bored out. Got new Harley brown o rings today and need to rotate the engine down and pull it apart again. Thanks for the tip, that's what I was thinking of doing and go back and check the rear cylinder to make sure it is really sealed. Depending on work I may have it running again on Wednesday unless I break something else again. Need to get the stupid thing inspected so I dare ride it, and that will probably only happen on Saturday so that's my target to get everything put back together. Before I noticed the puking oil it did sound a lot better than the last time it ran, no more funny clunking sound from the from cylinder so I think I got it. | ||
| Greg_e |
Got it back together and ran it until the fan came on. Only thing that bothers me is that the EGO correction is running at 135% at idle. Lots of smoke from the oil that got puked all over. Need to finish a couple things under the tail and put the body back on tomorrow and give it a wash. | ||
| Greg_e |
Put about 30 miles on it today, only thing that is definitely different is that there seems to be less vibration pretty much everywhere. Need to put in many more miles before I start trying to get the fuel maps all worked out. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
hows it goin' now? any updates? | ||
| Greg_e |
Raining or cold and raining so nothing more to report. I want to put about 100 miles on it before thinking about riding to work. What I have done is multiply the fuel maps by about 15% which looks to be a good rough number for the AFV. Idle is still running 125% so I know I have a bunch of work down there to fix. I did get the tank bag attached, which is just large enough for my little Fujitsu u810 laptop for logging if I can ever get some break in miles on the thing. There is a pile of noise from the valve train, but I'm fairly certain this is from the break in oil I'm running and should be better once I get back to synth oil. Just the typical clatter so I'm pretty sure it is all fine. Transmission is now running Mobile 1 4T which seems to shift a little better than when I had the Vtwin version in there. | ||
| Greg_e |
Put some more miles on it today, it's clear that while it was running before all this work, it was not running well. It now pulls much harder in second gear than it ever has, and I have not used full throttle yet. I think it is finally making normal power for the displacement instead of 3/4 power. | ||
| Greg_e |
So far just starting the tuning process with ECMspy and will hopefully have a few runs by the end of Monday. It won't lift the front wheel when pulling from 2000rpm up to red line in second gear, but it is really close to the point where if I stopped countering it with my torso it probably would lift. I'll have to report once I get the tune where I think I want it. Overall the rebuild seems to make the machine run a lot better than it ever did so while it was a lot of money I think I'll be happier than if I just ignored it. Probably going to be ready for the first oil change next weekend, synthetic will go back in then. |
