| Author | Message | ||
     Mtnmason |
i just decided "to hell with it" and cut the shroud off of the rear plug? then patch it with electric tape. the bike is an 07 w/ 13k on it and im sure theyve never been removed. will not budge | ||
| Ulynut |
Yup. You would be screwing up. | ||
| Mtnmason |
Hmmm... I thought it just served as a dust boot. if i can get the #$%&~ thing off the plug itself should be a cinch. | ||
| Nillaice |
dust cover and electrical insulation. the coil steps up the voltage to give a hotter spark. you don't want that spark to short to ground. or even worse; to you.trust me; it hurts. and don't trust my brother; he thinks it funny as hell so shock the crap out of people | ||
| Brumbear |
When you put the New one on and you will need a new one use greaseit helps with removal and stops rain from getting in there and mice don't eat so easy either | ||
| Mtnmason |
I was right. Getting the rear spark plug out and new one in was a piece of cake. I dont know why some people act like its such a hassle. The boots are the real bitch. I got the rear boot reset about 85%. Front - only about halfway, so i cut a little piece of fuel line to keep the whole ceramic part covered. Boot would not budge, even with a liberal application of dielectric grease! It seems the boot is grabbing the wire at a point inaccessible to my grease job. Whatever. I'll prob put some higher grade wire on when i have time. I'm headed to western NC tomorrow and probably wont think about it twice. Unless it zaps me! thanks to all for the input | ||
| 1_mike |
I use a old (car) brake adjusting tool (has a perfect bend in it), from the underside and push the boot up. Works no matter how long they've been in place. And as noted, before replacing the boot, put some dielectric grease inside the boot. Keep the electricity in and everything else out...makes pulling the boot off a snap the next time around. Also works excellent for removing the plug wire from the spark plug, without yanking on the wire.... Mike |
