| Author | Message | ||
     9cherry9 |
My city x is due for its 10K service and was wondering if there are any of those "TRICKS" for changing the fork oil ? | ||
| Froggy |
Yep, skip it.  | ||
| Yjsrule |
+1 on skipping it. I just changed mine on the uly at 36k miles mainly because I had it apart to change steering head bearings. Oil still looked decent, I would say if you ride on the road all the time 20k would be more than adequate for a change. Mine are noticeably stiffer than before, definitely don't wait that long. Only problem is now it makes me notice even more the shock needs a rebuild.  | ||
| 9cherry9 |
skip it huh ? anything else on the 10K I should skip ? how about those ever so easy to replace plugs ? | ||
| Froggy |
I skip the plugs too, but that's because they are very easy to screw up and ruin a head. Then I also skip the primary adjustment because I can never get it within spec, then I skip the clutch adjustment because I always make it worse, then I skip the brake pad check because I can't figure out if I need pads.... Hell, I don't think you want me working on your bike... | ||
| Greg_e |
Pads are easy, if you can't see the cut in the middle, you need pads. It's probably more complex than that but this is a really rough way to verify the pads are usable. The plugs don't seem to be too bad when you get a wobble spark plug socket (built in U joint). | ||
| Jesset |
This is great to know guys! I hit 10k over the summer and only did the fluids, everything else is in great shape. Money is tight and I was concerned about doing the fork service, this puts me at ease | ||
| Ourdee |
Andy, I'm over 20,000 on my uly with out any fork work. I plan on rebuilding them this winter when it starts snowing. I wanted to change the oil at 20k but it didn't happen. It will be fine. Don't let Froggy work on it unless it is a computer, and I'm not sure about that. Don't be too intimidated by the plugs. Use a 1/4" hose to get the back one back in. A wobble socket to tighten it. Anti seize grease so you can get it out the next time. | ||
| Ourdee |
Oh, The primary adjustment is easy if you get the rear tire off the ground and hit it while the plugs are out of the holes. Lets you turn the engine in 5th with the rear tire. Key here is planning oil change, plug change, and primary adjustment to happen during the same time frame. Start recharging the K&N air filter the night before, That gives it enough time to dry. Timing puts all the food on the plate at the right time. When I do the fork service, I'll also change the head bearings and replace the front tire and brake pads. The stars are aligning for it. | ||
| Tailspining |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/153628.html?1129433385 | ||
| Ulyrpg |
Telling someone to skip maintenance is not doing anyone a favor. Maybe waiting on the fork oil is ok but if you ride hard do it! The way I have always adjusted HD primary chain is.Hot in neutral with the bike running take up the slack until you hear a little whine then back off 1/4 turn tighten the jam nut and you're done. I also NEVER use anti-sieze on a new plug. Spark plugs have a coating on the threads pull them out at 10k and toss em. Gently thread in the new ones then torque them down, not too tight EVER! The best thing to have is a service manual. Fight the good fight! |
