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Buell Forum » XBoard » Archive through August 16, 2011 » Can you run a shovel head exhaust flange on a xb? « Previous Next »

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Firebolt020283
Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 07:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

today I broke a tap off in one of my holes for my exuast studs and i am trying to find a solution to this problem and I started thinking about the fact that shovel heads have only one nut on the flange so could I use one of those on my bike?

If not any ideas on how the heck to get a broken tap out of a hole?
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Firebolt020283
Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 07:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

never mind i found out why that would not work. it seems the shovel head flanges are welded onto the pipes and not floating ones like modern engines.... back to the drawing board... This is the most frustrating mess I have ever been threw because my bike is after all my sole transportation so I need it back up and running with the quickness.
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Ducbsa
Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Find a shop to EDM it out; means removing the head. I googled EDM and Lake Charles with no hits, but surely there's several with the machines. Call one and ask, they ought to know who does it.
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Mmcn49
Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

See pdf pages 5 & 6.

http://www.discoverlivesteam.com/books/Removing_Fr ozen_Taps.pdf

If the tap extractor fails you can go the nitric acid route. You only want to disolve enough of the tap teeth to loosen it. Make sure the acid has no impurities. Don't leave it in the bore for to long.

Nitric Acid: in concentrations over 82% by weight, (including red fuming nitric acid) has a negligible action on aluminum.
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Firebolt020283
Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wanted to go that rought only I had no idea were to buy that stuff but I did get it out...


http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/406 2/643810.html?1311535684
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Greg_e
Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thinking about it, you should have been able to use drain cleaner containing lye, it will eat the aluminum which would help free the tap. A bit safer and easier to get than the acid. Wish I had thought of it earlier as it might have saved the need for the helicoil. Mix lye with water, squirt in the hole, don't get any on you. Normally use about 2 tablespoons per gallon to clean aluminum before anodizing and to strip old anodize off. Mix it stronger or allow to sit longer and it will reduce the size of the part until nothing is left.

Sorry for the oversight.
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Ducbsa
Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dissolving the aluminum of the cylinder head sounds counterproductive. Did I misunderstand?
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Greg_e
Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need to dissolve just enough to free up the tap, it would be very little difference to the stud, probably less than running the tap through to clean up the threads is going to do. If it allowed the reuse of the hole it would be a lot better than putting in a helicoil which is ultimately what happened.
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