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Ksfirebolt
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 01:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got chronic wrist problems in my clutch hand and after switching to an in town job with lots of clutching to get to work(instead of 20mi of highway) it's getting aggravated.

How much does the hydraulic clutch reduce pull effort? Is it pretty reliable and durable?

If you have any experience with one, please tell me about it.

I have an '04 Firebolt XB12R, it's got the Heli upper clamp which helps, I may also go to taller bars to help the wrist angle.
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Nillaice
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 03:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what about a clutch-lite?
and the newer clutch cable/sleeve?

i can speak personally for the clutch-lite. it is about 40 bucks, easy to swap, and is totally reversable if you don't like it/wanna change it.

i have heard that the newer clutch cables were sleeved with a plastic sheath that reduced the friction in the casing, making it easier to pull/release, and provided better feel.
sorry, no part #'s

from my experinces with an 1125 hydraulic clutch; there is hardly any 'feel' if at all. and what happens if you spring a leak?
can you 'clutchless-ly shift'?
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 03:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The newer cable is wrapped in some sort of low friction coating. I believe it's teflon.

As per Buellistic's advice over in Old School, I recently drilled a hole in the clutch lever perch. Regular application of cable lube from American Sport Bike through this hole, and it's silky smooth.

IMO, the tool that comes with the lube is useless. That's just my experience though, others may differ.



http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5387.html

(Message edited by pkforbes87 on April 27, 2011)
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Fast1075
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Install a '06 or newer clutch spring and install a clutch-lite. I had the same problem...urban rides were impossible if I got caught in much stop and go..now the clutch is a two finger pull...my DRZ400 has a stiffer clutch by comparison.

Also make sure the lever is at the proper angle...your knuckles need to be in line with your forearm....if your hand is cocked back, it causes problems too.
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Ksfirebolt
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 08:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is good stuff! Any part #'s/links on the clutch lite/newer springs/newer cable?

I've got it lined up pretty good but haven't heard of any of this other stuff.

I've had good luck with the little cable luber tool on old Jap bike cables.

I like the easy fixes possible with regular cables vs. hydraulic.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You're on the right track. I think some people don't understand there's nothing "magic" about a hydraulic clutch. It takes the same amount of force to hold in the clutch whether it's with a mechanical mechanism (cable) or a hydraulic cylinder. The hydraulic system can have less friction, but a well-lubed cable can work just as well.
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Dogdaze
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 01:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great mod, fairly inexpensive and not too hard to accomplish.
I used the x-soft, only because at the time there wasn't any feedback on the success of the xx-soft being installed. (realize now it's just a matter of clutch cable adjustment being slightly more critical with the xx-soft).

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Custom_Chrome_ Clutchlite_p/cc-clutchlite.htm
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Timo31
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very interested in the Clutchlite option as I similar problem with my wrist. Anyone have any instructions for the swap? How difficult is it?
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Dogdaze
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very easy - here's an old thread on the install:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/430621.html?1233715787#POST1362768
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Timo31
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 02:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, going to order one now.
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B00stzx3
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Was looking at Muller, Clutch Lite and Free Spirits... going to go with Clutch Lite for my 03 XB9R.

Thanks for this thread!
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Fast1075
Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Beginning with the 2006 model year, the clutch spring was changed to one with lighter pressure...all 2006 and newer XB's have one...I ordered mine from American Sportbike....AL hooked me up quick...The pull is much easier and there is no sign of slippage...(the old spring was just too stiff and not needed except maybe at the dragstrip)..
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Greg_e
Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 12:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree, the adapter that comes with the cable lube is worthless unless you want a shower of the lube all over yourself. It worked OK on a new clutch cable before I installed the cable on the bike, but the throttles where worthless and just made a mess.

And yes the newest clutch cables from American Sport Bike have some kind of plastic to provide a smoother slide, made a big difference on my 03 9R as soon as I put it on. One of the soft pull levers might be an upgrade for me too as the city portions of my commute do tend to get a little tiring.

Which of the Clutchlite versions seems to be the best?
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Radioelasais
Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a magura hydraulic clutch ... no big difference if you are looking into lower stress and force. I believe I saw some kind of lever to reduce the force.
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Gunut75
Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 03:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a new cable too. It has the coating. Way better than the old style cable. That is all I have to compare it to though.
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Syonyk
Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I broke my clutch cable & have the new, plastic-coated one as well. It's quite nice!

Anyone know if I can get the plastic coated option for throttle cables? : )
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Eretromicin
Posted on Monday, May 02, 2011 - 04:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what about an adjustable clutch lever? if you fiddle with the clutch to reduce clutch travel distance and bring the lever closer to the handle, less hand strength/torque would be needed to operate the clutch... the original lever distance on these bikes suggest that someone with really huge palms was in charge of the clutch system =)
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Greg_e
Posted on Monday, May 02, 2011 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That does work and makes a big difference, but I still think a little more mechanical advantage with a new ramp might be a good idea.
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Arctic9r
Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2011 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just install a Muller powerclutch ball and ramp setup. Drag Specialties part # 1130-0004 $172.95 reduces effort by 40%.
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Nillaice
Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$47 vs $172, and what is the difference in result?
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Both my 1125s are in the shop for service, so I am stuck with my XB. Holy crap I was spoiled by the nice hydro clutch! I turned into a bit of a pussy, it hurts to use the XB clutch now. I guess I'm gonna pickup that hydraulic conversion kit.
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Chessm
Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i switch around between a CR and an 03 XB multiple times per week. i honestly dont see one as being any better than the other.

well except one keeps needing to go back to get a clutch weep fixed.
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Ksfirebolt
Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2011 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the feedback, I really appreciate it. This is just the type of info I was looking for.
It sounds like an updated cable and clutchlite are about the best bang for the buck.
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Nillaice
Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2011 - 04:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i really like it when the OP:

1 thanks everyone for thier input
2 says what avenue they are going to take on the issue
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Brumbear
Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2011 - 07:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah the hydraulic clutch is something I had to get used to on the 1125 I like the feel of the cable but I wouldn't be concerned with a leak the 1125 leak issue is related to the slipper clutch more than anything else.
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Trojan
Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2011 - 08:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Muller Power Clutch...the best 'clutchlite' style gadget available for the Buell.

Instead of just bolting on an extension to the stanadrd mechanism the Power Clutch replaces the entire ramp mechanism and ball bearings with new parts that reduce effort by 40%+ by having the ramps at a different angle.

I've used them on all of my Buells and XR1200 for years and really do like them a lot!

I'm sure somebody will sell them in the US but if not we can do it for you : )

http://www.trojan-horse.co.uk/prods/95.html

Hydraulic clutches will be no guarantee of easier operation. Most that I have tried are actually worse than stock in this regard and just add more unnecesary complication to you clutch mechanism (just ask an 1126 owner!). Stick to the simple cable clutch with a well oiled cable, good routing and a Power Clutch and you'll have the easiest and best option.
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