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Buell Forum » XBoard » Archive through April 27, 2011 » Engine Rotation For Top End Service - More Needed « Previous Next »

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Xb1221
Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm fixing some damage from last Fall. A metal thrust washer found it's way into my cams and took out E1, E2, pinion gear, key and the bronze oil drive gear. I've followed the service manual engine rotation procedure...yet still need some more. I'm just starting to see the rear cylinder spark plug in it's current position looking under the lower frame edge . I need more rotation to tap out the rocker shafts to free the pushrod and followers to replace the new set of cams.

I don't see any dangling wires...cables...fuel lines are anything. It seems hung up by the swingarm and shock. Do I need to remove the shock bolt at the top of the swingarm to gain more rotation or is there an other cloak and dagger method?

If it were 12 speed I'd simply flip it over on the grips and seat and have at it.....

Bike is an '04 XB12...

Thanks-
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Xb1221
Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Further inspection at lower altitudes shows the back of the engine case contacting the end of the swingarm (chain drive conversion).

Jacking/rotating the motor back up, blocking under the engine/swingarm pivot and unbolting the lower shock bolt seems the only way. Then the engine should be free to rotate further.

I'm more comfortable trying this than knocking out either the rear isolator bolt or the swingarm/engine bolt while it's simply on stands. I think it simply collapse on the floor if either were pulled.

Any ideas?
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Gunut75
Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The rear cylinder gets serviced through the top of the frame. It only rotates as far as you have it. If you want more room, you have to remove the frame.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Monday, April 25, 2011 - 05:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Full engine rotation looks like this:


Don't tap out the rocker shafts, just remove the entire rocker boxes (4 bolts each). The rotation shown above allows ample room to do that.

Be sure and check the your oil pump for internal damage from the cam gear train shrapnel, and it'd probably be a good idea to flush the swingarm, oil lines, and oil cooler too.
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Xb1221
Posted on Monday, April 25, 2011 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks. I took the front wheel off assuming I'd need the room to rotate the motor. The pics shows lots of room.

Cams were actually E3 and E4...my bad. I have opened the oil pump to find some carnage sucked into the top 1/2 of that. 7 teeth on each cam and 1/2 the key were the amount of metal munched. Teeth were all located in the cam galley. Pinion was cracked across at the key slot and the key metal seems to be the only carbon that might have taken a lap in the system.

How would you flush a swingarm? New oil and will also be its near future.

It's been a blessing really. Fuel line was nearly worn through from one of the allen bolts on the rear cam cover. That would have been some dance trying to get away from the fuel, stop the bike and put the fire out where ever I happened to be on the road. One is on order.

I'll get camera out and posts some pics. Maybe someone can ID the thrust washer and then I can start asking the who, what, where and why of it all.

thanks-
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