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Buell Forum » XBoard » Archive through April 06, 2011 » XB specific checklist/questions to ask when buying a XB? « Previous Next »

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Nono443
Posted on Monday, March 21, 2011 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://steveturnbull.co.uk/buell/thexbpages/xbknow nproblems.htm

Obviously those were some of the problems with the XB's throughout the years, what other questions should be asked when looking specifically at the earlier XB's?

If the primary chain was ever inspected/adjusted? If the belt has ever been changed, and how many miles are on the current belt? What fluids were used in the bike (basically making sure that Royal Purple is not the answer)?

I hope my questions are clear, thank you in advance.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Monday, March 21, 2011 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't worry about the primary chain- if the primary isn't making any crazy noises, you'll likely be fine. That theory generally goes for the majority of the bike- if it looks right, sounds right ans acts right...it probably is right.

nothing wrong with Royal Purple either...
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1324
Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 08:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Some things I've learned to look for over the years (some are on your link):

Check front engine mount. If the gap between the bolt head and mount is less than ~8 mm, you likely need a new mount. This will make you feel like you're riding over corrugated metal when braking heavily. The mount was redesigned in 2006 (?), so anything newer should be fine.

Check for oil leaks. Some are 'ok', some are only worth buying if the price is right and you're ok with wrenching. 'OK' is typically around the clutch cable seal (seep), sometimes from the oil cooler connections (light gunk, no active drips), and to some extent, the rocker boxes and PCV seals in the rocker covers.

Leaky base and case gaskets will usually mean engine disassembly, so buy accordingly. The rocker box gasket leaks can be significant sometimes, but fixing isn't as intrusive (but does require rotating the engine). I'd personally watch out for lots of oil/gunk under the starter (on top of the transmission). Some leak more than others, and others, not at all. I've personally had one fail to seal regardless of seals and another that seems perfect.

If Mobile 1 gear oil was used in the primary, be prepared for the possible stator replacement. The oil attacks the windings and failure is imminent if this occurs.

Check front rotor for hot spots. You'll usually see some discolored patches around the rotor that typically occur when pads were used too aggressively and/or the front brake was held after coming to a complete stop. This is usually fixed with a new set of pads and/or cleaning the rotor. However, I've personally bought a bike with a rotor that couldn't be fixed...had to replace. There really is no way to measure this on the spot, but just look for it.

Make sure you have the orange seal wheel bearings. The black seals were early on and most were replaced. However, if you find a bike with black, change them.

As far as drive belt is concerned, your luck may vary with any of the variants. Some people manage to go damn near a lifetime on the 03 Belt (the weakest), and others seem to find a way to wreck their 06 belts (the newest/best). If the guards have been off the bike, you may run into issues. But again, do a good inspection of the belt and sprockets.

If you're looking at a Firebolt, be prepared to replace/upgrade or fix your headlights. There was an issue with the reflective coating flaking off and the housings overheating and melting. This is a concern for obvious reasons. Buell released new upgraded lights toward the end, but I don't remember the specifics. Aftermarket lights are popular replacements, as well.

Lastly, something I found out the hard way: if the bike has been stored for a LONG time, be wary of the valve seals. The oil drains off the seal/valve stem and it dries out. Needless to say, the seal fails after you start using it again. Mine was bought from auction and sat in some guys garage for over a year. So add a year to however long it sat before and during auction... Before I fixed it, it was drinking a quart of oil every 500 miles or so. It wouldn't visibly smoke, but the inside of the throttle body, intake ports, and airbox were full of oily sludge. IF you know that it sat or that it uses oil, I'd ask to look down the throttle body. You won't be able to see if the exhaust seals are leaking, but it's still as easy check. Remove seat, pull airbox cover, and remove filter.

Most of these issues are worst case...but since you asked. For the most part, these bikes are pretty simple and bulletproof. Little things will creep up, so be prepared to wrench.

(Message edited by 1324 on March 22, 2011)
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