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Dhays1775
Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, my fiancée and I were on our way back from Malibu for the March SCAB ride when i heard a funny noise from the motor. I knew right away what it was.

Turns out, the front muffler strap had broken, and took the front header stud with it. I was able to get the bike towed back to San Diego where I have been wrenching on it since Saturday. Sadly, it also decided the rear header stud didn't want to hang around either. I have the motor rotated down to drill out the front stud, but I need some suggestions for the rear head. Anyone have any ideas?

I was able to put on the new rear rotor and hidden two piston Brembo caliper I got from Al at American Sport Bike. I also put on the XB9 gearing kit. After all is put in place, all the spare parts will be for sale for any reasonable offer.
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B1bomber
Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This tool might help you-

http://www.handsontools.com/JIMS-1705-Exhaust-Stud -Drill-Plate-for-Harley-Davidson_p_19333.html
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2008xb12scg
Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a broken front bolt. I couldn't get it out for nothing but Slaughter sent me a locking nut that screwed on and when you unscrew it it unscrews the bolt. If one ywould help you shoot me a pm.
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Greg_e
Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 01:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd like more info on this nut.
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Thepod
Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 01:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Much experience with this.

I was unsuccessful in drilling out the sheared off screw so I had to pull the head and get it drilled and retapped. It's not that hard of a job to rotate the motor and pull the head once you've done it once or twice. I could walk you through it if you have a service manual.

On a side note. The reason your muffler strap broke is most likely due to a worn out front isolator. I highly recommend getting a replacement. It is a very easy swap.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Find yourself some left handed drill bits.
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Borrowedbike
Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Perhaps, never tried but thinking here, you could pull the fan and have enough room to remove the rear bolt?
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2008xb12scg
Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd like more info on this nut.

really don't know much. Slaughter sent them to me. I screwed it on the bolt and when you go to unscrew it, it's locked onto the bolt and unscrews the bolt. A locking nut I guess. If you ever need one give me a shout I have a couple left.
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Dhays1775
Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the stud removal tool I got from Al at American Sport Bike. I can get to the front stud no problem, but will I be able to get to the rear one? I'd hate to have to pull the heads, but if that's what I have to do... About these nuts, tell me more. Please.
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Dhays1775
Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 11:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well guys, more bad news...

I tried to fit the drill guide into the front head, but it wouldn't line up with the good hole. After looking closely, I noticed that the hole on the top front was actually a heli-coil. It was put in fairly well, but was not drilled in the correct location. So, the drill guide I bought won't even work on the front head. It SHOULD work on the rear, but the only way i will be able to drill it is if I remove the motor completely. It almost feels like it would be worth buying the stage two head and 1250 jugs.

Needless to say, my feelings are a little hurt because of the lack of pride the person who repaired the head originally. I just miss riding the bike. I feel it a little ironic that the bike was solid as a rock until one little muffler band decided it didn't wanna hang around. Then, all hell has to break loose on a simple fix. I suppose it's just my luck. I'm not sure if I should be happy or sad that I paid off my bike this month.

That engine kit is looking better and better since I have to pull the engine out anyway...

Any suggestions on the best course of action now? I'm pretty much bummed out as hell.

Thanks all for the help.
(I also just put in an order with American Sport Bike for that front motor mount)

(Message edited by dhays1775 on March 18, 2011)
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Greg_e
Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2011 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Used heads? That said ebay seems to have precious few XB parts right now. Got a few engines but the prices are pretty high.

If there is a stub of the lower stud left, you might be able to have a machine shop remove the heli coil, weld the hole full, place the drilling jig on the port, drill out the weld, tap and thread for a heli coil, then flip it over and have them fix the lower stud. The welding to fill in the hole is the tricky part, might need to open it up into the port and fill the whole thing, then level the port off before using the jig to drill the hole.

Now what will suck is you find out that the bolt flange on the exhaust has been hacked to make it fit on the botched stud repair and that you need a new flange too.

(Message edited by Greg_E on March 19, 2011)
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Thepod
Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2011 - 01:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would pull the heads and get the head rewelded and tapped. It has worked well for my head which I just did.

If you are handy with a wrench the heads can come off pretty easily. Make sure you have the service manual as putting the heads and rockers on requires the right steps. Make sure you place the rocker box on with the push-rods full down - ie. Both valves close or you may run into trouble getting the rockers to seat properly.

I am happy to walk you through it as I have just done this myself.

BTW the weld/tap job cost me $75, which is a whole lot cheaper than a new set of heads. They actually tapped them and placed helicoils. The guy at the shop said they are a lot stronger that way.

Your local harley shop will have all the gaskets you need. Cost about $40 for each head.

Make sure you buy a new front isolator or this will happen again.
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Dhays1775
Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2011 - 07:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I pulled the motor this morning, then the heads. I was pretty surprised by how nice the cylinder bores looked considering the bike has just over 41000 miles. I'm gonna call around to see if I can find a shop willing to fix the jacked up head. The rear head shouldn't be an issue to repair. I took a close look at the iso mount, and it was cracked pretty good. I'm gonna order a new one from American Sport Bike. I'll post pictures this evening of the things I found today.

Again, thanks for all the help everyone.
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Greg_e
Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2011 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

While you have the motor out, I would suggest replacing the back mount too. Better safe than sorry for the money it costs to replace it. I have both waiting for warmer weather (wishing for a heated garage).

(Message edited by Greg_E on March 19, 2011)
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Thepod
Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2011 - 07:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You're doing it right. I agree with Greg_e. Might as well replace both mounts. Can't wait to see the pics.

FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL WHEN PUTTING BACK TOGETHER....ask me how I know
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Dhays1775
Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2011 - 07:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)







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Dhays1775
Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2011 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)





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Greg_e
Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2011 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your front mount is slightly worse than mine.

Wish I had a lift.

I may still be interested in the 12 gearing, especially since gas is going to breach $4 a gallon for regular and premium going to be much more than that. I can live with the lower performance to get better mileage right now. Your primary is from an 07 or earlier, right? Sorry don't have anything to trade that would help you out of your current problem.

(Message edited by Greg_E on March 20, 2011)
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Greg_e
Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2011 - 12:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also it looks like the seals around the PCV valves are puking, might be an idea to fix them while everything is out.

And if you are not going to put that on the track, does it need the stabilizer? Sell that to pay for the parts you need.
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Dhays1775
Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2011 - 02:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The gear is from an 07. Like I said before, make me a decent offer and it's yours. I plan on cleaning everything up and fixing all the small stuff before I put her back together. And that stabilizer, it may come off to help offset some cost. I also have a few more things that I'll be selling as well.
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Thepod
Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2011 - 03:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks good so far. Consider looking into a Palmer Front Mount Saver http://www.palmerproducts.co.uk/

It's cheaper than a new isolator and is a lot easier to install than a new set of header bolts
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Greg_e
Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2011 - 03:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mount saver is $12, not sure if the shipping will really cover it so it might be a few more after they process my order. I'll give it a try and see how it works.
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Greg_e
Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2011 - 03:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually, looking at the pictures again it looks like you might have a leak on the rear rocker box so you might as well pull that off and put fresh gaskets down.
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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2011 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can make that front mount saver yourself from a very soft rubber compound

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/586071.html?1289852239
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