| Author | Message | ||
     Gunut75 |
I have an 05 12R, and have 18.5k on the clock. I know it has the plastic gear on it. I want to have a look at it, or just replace it soon. Has anyone here replaced one of these. I know the one to be replaced is on the crank. How do I replace it? Do I need to take the cam cover off? I think I may throw an 07+ oil pump on there while I'm at it. Any help is appreciated. | ||
| Cataract2 |
The stock one in your 05 is not plastic. It's metal. Anyways, you really don't need to upgrade to an 06+ drive gear in general, it's more of a piece of mind. I did mine just because I was already in there, my original looked like new. To get to it you do in fact need to remove the cam cover. You will also need to get the cam gears out which means you will have to relieve pressure from the push rods. To do that you have to get the rock box off as well from the top. Do you have a Service Manual? | ||
| Fast1075 |
You can pull the oil pump and check the condition of the gear from below without pulling the cam cover. | ||
| Gearhead |
I wouldn't make it a priority unless you're doing other engine work since there is major dismantling involved. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
+1 on pull the oil pump and check the gear all around (and special the edge of the gear teeth) | ||
| Hughlysses |
The pre-06 gear is apparently steel. If the crank is not exactly straight, the gear mesh varies slightly as the engine rotates and the gear will tend to wear on one side. Easiest method is to check the gear is to pull the oil pump, and shoot photos up through the hole using your digital camera. Drop the pump, snap a photo, put the bike in 5th gear, and turn the rear wheel a little to rotate the crank. Snap another pic, and repeat 4 or 5 times. Download the pics to your computer where you can view them full-size to see the detail. IF you have a problem, the teeth will tend to wear "sharp" on one portion of the gear (less than 180 degrees around the gear). If they're starting to wear noticeably sharp in any area, replace the gear. Otherwise, they keep getting sharper and thinner until they snap off, causing instant loss of oil pressure and spending shrapnel through the cam drive gears. The replacement gears are bronze (I've read they're actually beryllium copper) which is less prone to wearing. Changing the gear involves removing the rocker boxes (at least one) to unload the pushrods so you can pull the right side engine cover. On an XB, this means you have to rotate the engine to get to the rear rocker cover. Pretty big job. See the Knowledge Vault for several threads on this, which was a fairly common problem on Buell tube frame models. (Message edited by Hughlysses on January 30, 2011) | ||
| Greg_e |
I suggest removing the spark plugs if you are going to turn the engine with the rear wheel. This is a job that I need to do this spring when it gets warm enough to think about riding again. Need a pump gasket and rubber engine mounts (isolators) since the front on mine is almost dead and the back can't be far off. | ||
| Glitch |
 This is Bill's (Reepicheep) from his M2 | ||
| Reepicheep |
My 05 9sx looked almost as bad, but took twice as long to get there. At 30k the 9sx was worn but still probably had a lot of life left. I replaced it anyway as I had accumulated the new pinion gear and new style oil pump lurking here and on ebay. Seemed silly to just leave them on the shelf. |
