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Buell Forum » XBoard » Archive through January 31, 2011 » XB9R carbon fiber body work help « Previous Next »

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Agent216
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i found cf bodywork on ebay...for $1,107..is there a place someone knows about that might be cheaper....thanks for your time..mike
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Terrys1980
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Going with cheap carbon fiber is not the way to go. Cheaper cf with fade, crack and become brittle over time.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you want good carbon, you are going to have to pay for it. There are cheap pieces from China on ebay cheap, but I can assure you they are junk. If you are just interested in the look, consider vinyl wrapping your stock bodywork.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By the way, what they are referring to is the eBay carbon...that's the cheap stuff that you have found. If you were to buy the following parts at American Sport Bike (the good stuff):
air box cover
tail section
under tail
front fairing
fender
chin fairing
heel guards
oil cooler scoop
left side intake scoop

...it would cost $2735.
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Agent216
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thats what i was hoping i didn't have to pay..but...if i want the good stuff...thanks
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Skinstains
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buying the $1107 junk will be just like throwing $1107 out the window in the fast lane. Make a project of it and buy one or two pieces at a time from Al, you'll be glad you did.
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Ghost_rider33
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any carbon fiber will fade and become brittle over time. The UV rays from the sun effect the fibres and the resin. After all, it is only graphite fibres and some epoxy. The best way to protect the composite material is to paint it, but then you dont get to look at the nice pattern of the carbon fibre. I want some Aramid Kevlar parts. I guess I'll have to make them myself.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well since you put it that way... maybe the main concern would be fit and finish?
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Slaughter
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Many of the ebay "carbon" parts actually use an outer layer of carbon as decoration - just for the look. The structure itself is fiberglass.
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Ghost_rider33
Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe the difference between the "cheap" and "expensive" composites is the number of laminae and the actual orientation of the strands. Also the method of curing the composite comes into play. Some methods are cheap, such as cold curing. The problem with cold curing, however is it leaves too much resin. Vacuum bag curing works really well to draw the extra resin out. Double Vacuum Debulk is probably one of the best ways, but it is kind of time consuming to set up, and the artisan is limited in the size of project. If I were to do a project for my bike, I would use the vacuum bag method. It draws the extra resin out of the matrix making the lay up as thin as possible, allowing the artisan to lay more laminae into the project. More layers = more strength. Don't forget about strand orientation.
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Agent216
Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 01:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm sitting here with my jaw wide open..wow,...thanks everyone for your imput
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Glitch
Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 06:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The structure itself is fiberglass, and heavier than the plastic you're replacing.
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Slaughter
Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wesley - we should talk... heads up PM on the way.
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