| Author | Message | ||
     Iamarchangel |
I've just noticed a small amount of oil seeping out of the rear cylinder base. No idea how long or how much is actually flowing but I don't think it's too bad. Seeing as it's not going to fix itself or get any better left alone, I've got some questions for people that have fixed this. 1) Any idea what the book rate is for this job? 2) Do you think re-torquing the head will accomplish anything? 3) How long would it take for somebody with reasonable /good mechanical skills to do this job (me in my backyard)? Any other hints would be appreciated. | ||
| Slaughter |
1) nope, do it myself 2) nope, may even overstress the studs and at worst MIGHT force you into having to helicoil the cases - HOWEVER, it will not hurt to bring them to the recommended assembly torque. 3) (assuming you're slow as I am) 1.5 hours to rotate the engine, an afternoon to remove, re-gasket and replace the cylinder, head and valve covers (assuming you haven't pulled the top end apart before) NOTE: get ALL top end gaskets - not just the base and head gaskets. Nice thing is we're talking CHEAP parts. Use a little dab of hi temp silicone to tack the valve cover gasket in place - it's REALLY EASY to knock it out of its groove and then you've got a leaker WATCH that you don't catch the temperature sensor lead between surfaces when you're bolting her back together (DAMHIK) | ||
| Glitch |
Do both cylinders! A proper warm up before riding will make it less likely to happen again. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
I didn't really want to think about that both thing but... seems like a lot of the work is just getting to the engine and while I'm there... Top end gasket kit is about $US100, I haven't checked here yet. What's in it and does it do both cylinders? | ||
| Slaughter |
Sounds like you're looking at the WHOLE gasket set - not just the 3 that make up the rocker set: fiber/metal - rocker base, molded perimeter gasket and the little rectangle (about 2x3 inch) | ||
| Aptbldr |
Guys fiddling with vintage Japanese motorcycles have a trick. Cold engine. Clean suspect area with aerosol contact cleaner. Use fine brush or toothpick to apply SuperGlue type adhesive to exposed paper gasket face; allowing gasket to absorb glue, wicking it in. Repeat until gasket is fully saturated & allow dry time. Worked for high pressure oil passages in head gasket of my GPz750, years ago. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
I'm taking the idea of contact cleaner to the area so I can check how bad it actually is. As far as I can tell, I have to rotate the engine just to get to the bolts/nuts if I want to check the torque. Is that right? Manual says I need a rear wheel vise. What is that? Do I need a piston ring sleeve thing? Any other tool needs that might surprise me? | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Hmm, so I cleaned off the area as best I could and went for a 170km run at a fair clip, north of the speed limit. Temp was about 30 - 35°C. No sign of any oil afterwards. With a run like that, some oil should be present if there was a leak. Agreed? Starting to think it's been there since I owned it since I never knew that part of the case was unpainted. | ||
| Nvr2old |
Maybe starter motor gasket leak?  |
