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Brightbuell
Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i got a map from a buddy and it runs great untill i turn it off and restart it still warm and it starts riding a little crappy. one thing i did not do was disable my O2 sensor. I think it is adjusting its self when warm and thats why it starts running crappy. i have a feeling if I do dis able the 02 sensor it will start running good like it does already and keep running good, because it wont auto tune its self to run crappy.

Does this make sense? i also got the map from the ecmspy site, 09 XB12 custom, and it says to disable the 02 sencer so is that probly whats going on?

How do i go about disabling the 02 sensor? I dont need info about Erik Buell Racing ECMs, Please stay on topic and Please only exp advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Sifo
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've just set the min and max values for the AFV to 100% so that it can't adjust.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Using what program to access the value controls?
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Hermit
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 02:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Not sure on a 09 but on my 06, if it runs better after a few minutes on the road it my be the intake air temperature sensor. The intake air temperature sensor is mounted in the air box above the engine when you stop the air box is getting a lot of heat from the engine causing the sensor to read high if you restart before engine cools down.
I notice this when I was tuning my ECM.
If you have a good map you do not need to disable the O2 sensor unless you are data logging.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is what im talking about. Read the custom map info.

https://sites.google.com/site/ecmspy/xb12/2009
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Sifo
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 09:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Using what program to access the value controls?

I use ECMSpy. Not sure they got everything sorted out for the '09s.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Im starting to think this map includes disabiling your 02 sensor. That its part of the map. is it possable for a map to turn off your 02 sensor? yes or No question. Anyone know wether or not a map can posess the ability to controll your O2 sensor?
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Krueger08xb12s
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bright, use ecmRead with tunerpro. I adjusted my afv values on my 08 ebr race ecm. You can use these programs for any year ecm
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Brightbuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 10:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, So you did what with your AFV values? Did you raise them to 100? I heard something like that. I do have ecmread and tunerpro I just dont know what to do from here.
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Aptbldr
Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 08:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"...know wether or not a map can posess the ability to controll your O2 sensor?"

I think with ECMSpy and the early FI user has two choices:
1) Fuel map(s) may be pasted, copied & edited.
2) Whole EEPROM may pasted, copied & edited.

In #2, O2 sensor setting is carried with EEPROM's file. Easy to check.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, so i got tunner pro and ecmread, i fetched my eprom from my bike/ecm, I downloaded the definintion file for BUEZD from ecmspy.com, loaded Buezd file to tunerpro and tried to do the same with my bin file of my eprom, but its not letting me see the file. When I open ecmread its there but its grey in color, and it wont let me move anything thats grey in color, its like the files are locked, do i have to get a paid version of something to import my ecmread files to tunerpro? my goal is to raise the AFV MIN/MAX parameters to 100 so to disable my O2 sensor/auto tune. HELP!!!!!!!! I only want replys from people who know for sure what they are talking about, Please!



(Message edited by brightbuell on August 05, 2010)
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Brightbuell
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, I was able to figure it out. ok, what I did for every one to know is I got a custom Eprom/Map from a friend and it worked great but after i drove it and parked it, and restarted it hot, it would start running crappy. what I found was because mine was an 09 it would auto tune its self and start to run crappy so I did what i said in the last post and disabled my 02 sensor by setting AFV min/max to 100% so it could nolonger auto adjust so now the bike is stuck running great. Finnaly after about 9 months my bike runs very good, and it runs exactly the same hot or cold. It has decel popping thats much quieter and more consistaint. Im done!
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Aptbldr
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That must feel good!
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Brightbuell
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, I was able to figure it out. ok, what I did for every one to know is I got a custom Eprom/Map from a friend and it worked great but after i drove it and parked it, and restarted it hot, it would start running crappy. what I found was because mine was an 09 it would auto tune its self and start to run crappy so I did what i said in the last post and disabled my 02 sensor by setting AFV min/max to 100% so it could nolonger auto adjust so now the bike is stuck running great. Finnaly after about 9 months my bike runs very good, and it runs exactly the same hot or cold. It has decel popping thats much quieter and more consistaint. Im done!
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Sifo
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 10:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I just wonder how it will work out long term as the temperature changes. Also if you ever travel where you have significant altitude changes. I almost settled on the short cut you have just done, but am glad I worked out my map to where it adjusts correctly.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2010 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yea, it takes about 5 min to adjust it back if I ever plan to travel to higher elivations. As for temp change, it wont affect it. Cold or hot it runs the same, but before i disabled the 02 it would run worse the hotter it got. Once I disabled it, it stoped changing. I rode the hell out of my bike yesterday and it ran so much better then ever before. Im so happy im done. Its been 9 months of running crappy, now its got more kick off the line and at high speeds. i just sent the guy a msg about how i have had to adjust my riding due to my front tire comming off the ground and my back tire spinning off the line with less throttle. i love it. now if some one lives in lets say Denver, and they go into the mountains all the time, this probley wont work for them. if you live in a flat state like me it works great.
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Xoptimizedrsx
Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2010 - 01:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

if you have to disable the O2 to make it work then the map is not correct for that bike.

doing so is forcing it to run with no correction. you need to find the reason why its dropping the values and adjusting afv.

you have more than fuel tables. change the temps settings, the O2 set-points and ect to allow the bike to run in the new set parameters. Then you should allow the O2's to function as the would. which will keep the table stable at all times in the new settings. this will work once done. my o2s are on and i cruise at 15.5 afr stable front and rear. but my open loop is 13.4 and wot is 13.0 all stable and I have my O2's on. Its all in the setup of the ecm. not just the maps alone.

this is with a buecb ecm and a buegb ecm. dual o2's so It can be done if done correctly.

long term no o2's will kill the engine!!! if for some reason the fuel is different and air temp altitude all change and you told it to ignore settings (no O2) then the bike needs a lot more or less fuel you will either foul the plugs, build carbon all over the ports making them clog over time needing cleaned by hand.$$$.$$ or cause a miss-fire and detonation effect eating away at the tops of the piston. just bad news long term IMO.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2010 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well its running great. I have had no problems. Im not going to change it until im ready to do all my own tuning. Im doing lots of research and im in touch with who are smarter on the subject then myself. Now that its cooling down I will be able to spend more time in the garage. I can try out other maps as well. I do have another map from ecmspy but its also has the 02 disabled. Here read it yourself. This is the one I might try next. Im not in a huge hurry cause like I said it runs so good im loving life, but when i do feel like checking it out this is the one im looking at next. Its the custom one of the two.
https://sites.google.com/site/ecmspy/xb12/2009
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Buell_41
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 10:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

+1 Xoptimizedrsx

Couple of observations:
1. Technically you haven't disabled the o2 sensor... more like just boxed it in.

2. Per the summary of the map on the site you linked over to, it was developed using an opened airbox, K&N filter, D&D style exhaust, breather reroute and wideband o2 sensor. Do you have any of these? I'm not sure what you mean by breather mod... de-snorkle? or did you actually perforate your airbox?

That last one is doozey. If you don't have those exact things or exact equivalents for each of those, I think you're asking for trouble. Other than the stock map that came with your bike, the ONLY map I'd be putting in, is the one that resulted from my own proper datalogging efforts specifically tuned for my bike's setup.

Your bike... your risk. But the bike is acting the way it is because its trying to find a compromise between what it needs and what you're forcing it to do.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes, i have all of those mods. My bike runs great. I cant get over how much better it runs. I have ran the piss out of it so many times now and its exactly the same every time. And yes, the 02 sensor is not turned off its disabled but giving it no ability to make a decision. It id disabled. There is no risk this is not a rocket shit, this is a simple v twin motor. Dont over analyze something so simple. You might hurt yourself. is it bothering you that my bike is running great? Or is it bothering you that yours is not? ask yourself that question honestly before acting like this is some seriuos problem. Im not sure what kind of bike you ride but I ride a Buell and its not complicated to make it run great i have a tunable ecm that came in my bike from the factory. I proved someone can use their own tunable ECM. You dont have to buy a $700 tuneable ECM. I have better uses for that $250 or $700. I love my buell ,and thank God for ECM Read, and TunerPro. There is a buell brotherhood over on Buellxb.com that help each other to learn how to manage and fix your own bike. We are a smart group of people we can think for ourselves. Dont uderestimate yourself. there are thousands of Buellers that are tuning their own bikes. you need to learn sometime cause your warrenty is going to end one day and i dont know about you but I plan to own my bike for life and I plan to do all my own with the help and knowledge of the Buell collective. I have 5 bikes in my garage that i have to fix so im not about to puss out and pay someone else every time I need something fixed. for one if i did i would not be able to afford 5 bikes. Also if i cant fix my own bike then i dont need to have it.
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Iamarchangel
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 03:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, Mike, if it was me, I would have appreciated the effort, especially seeing as the thread started with a bunch of questions.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

This post was a duplicate of another one at buellxb.com. I got all the help i needed from them. i asked a question and got the answers. Here I went nowhere. Im done and moving way past this post. Your advice was completely wrong. im not sure why you answered at all knowing you dont know shit about it. Thats my point. Dont go on with a long spew, guessing and talking about what ifs 's that you really know nothing about. if you knew what you were talking about you would have talked about protunner, and ECM read. i
nstead you try to sound cool by saying its not really disabled when yes it is if it cant do anything. WTF do you think disabled means?
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Froggy
Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2010 - 01:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

i asked a question and got the answers.




Funny, they gave you the wrong answers apparently. Xopti's post is correct.. The O2 sensor is an important part of the fuel injection system, without it, your bike isn't much better than a carbureted one. I love how you say "There is no risk". Funny, you only risk destroying a motor in a $12k motorcycle. (Although with the map you loaded, its more likely to be fouled plugs)

Enjoy the overly rich running bike and its terrible fuel economy. That is why it started to run like crap before you boxed in the AFV. The bike would detect it running excessively rich (really, 13.5:1 AFR at cruise?), then try to lean it back out. When the bike is tuned correctly, you still have full use of the O2 sensor, the bike will adjust the AFV as needed while cruising, and it will not go far off of 100% depending on your conditions. Also, a properly tuned bike will have better fuel economy than stock. My XB12 typically gets 64mpg, and has peaked at 75mpg.

I am not trying to be mean or anything, but there is a lot you need to learn about the ECM. You are making progress, you are asking great questions and getting great answers in return.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Can i ask you why this map at this link https://sites.google.com/site/ecmspy/xb12/2009 tuned by a guy who knows enough to have created this web site has the o2 disabled? Can I also ask if its better left on then why is it running so much better. Let me make this more clear, its running great. Originaly the guy from whom i got my map had his 02 enabled. Only I choose to try it due to it starting out so great and them slowly changing to run not as great once it warmed up. It was my idea to box in/ disable my o2 sensor. It now starts great, and runs great. so I gues I need to continue looking for another map that when it adjusts it will still run great. Fortunatly i can try as many maps as I choose to cause I didnot buy a race ecm I flashed my own. And because its running great, I can continue to ride between trying new maps. So your right Froggy im learning. It just bothers me when people are affraid to use and aquire there own skills and instaintly diss me for trying. I do have those mods that I said i have, and it does run great. It does not run rich like it did. Its got more power then i am used to. With all the pros and so far no cons im not in a huge hurry to change it but just like I have the balls to try I also have the wisdom to continue seeking perfection. So i wont settle with it as a carborated buell. But while i take my time preparing for my next step i will surely take advantage as I have of my new found power and fun. So i get what your saying, and thats why I like you Froggy.

(Message edited by brightbuell on August 22, 2010)
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Brightbuell
Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Froggy, what do you think about giving my o2 sensor a larger range to adjust its self? Do you think its a posability that in a lot of these cases most peoples bikes that are moded with all the mods stated above in the case of the bikes that are 08 and above just dont have the range needed to affectivly adjust to meet the greater demand of flexability to take advantage of the auto tune ECM? If infact we add to the o2 sensors range it could possably give it the ability to use its original map to correct its self to the mods. please disreguard my spelling.

(Message edited by brightbuell on August 22, 2010)
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Brightbuell
Posted on Monday, August 23, 2010 - 05:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Froggy I was thinking. I noticed that some peoples afv values go really low or really high when the bike is warm/hot, and thats when people complain about their bikes running like crap. So maybe I could just raise the bottom to keep it from adjusting to that point of runnung like crap, and still leave a range of values open enough for it to adjust higher when it needs. So with a little more research this may all be as simple as just raising the bottom. I will re enable my O2 by replecing my values to what they were with this badass map i have and then warm up the bike good and hot to just where it would adjust and run a little crappy hook up to the bike get a reading to see where the values are hot. See if it to hight or real low and only adjust up or down to keep it from being able to get to the point of running crappy. So just for an example I may raise my low AFV values to 100 and my high to 110 so the bike has the ablity to adjust to altitude. There must have been adjustments made that compinsate for its need to go where it does to run crappy if it runs good when i box it in. Anyway i know its not easy to follow what im saying but you get the jist of it. it sound like the best thing to do cause its doing whats working for me and also doing what you insist must be done so it wont blow up or what ever you think its destroying by ridind it boxed like it is.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, August 23, 2010 - 06:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

(Not ignoring you, just that your posts require more than a yes/no answer, I do most of my posting while at work so I will get you a long response when I get home : ) )
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Buell_41
Posted on Monday, August 23, 2010 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

correct me if I'm wrong but 14.7:1 is considered the perfect stoichiometric ratio for internal comubustion engines. H-D (and I'm assuming buell) developes their base fuel maps in an open-loop condition(AKA without an 02 sensor). This base map is basically good for the broadest range of riding styles and the STOCK setup. If you do anything different than the factory did, and our bikes only had open-loop ability, they wouldn't be as much fun. Ok, so at idle from a cold startup, the thing is completely ignoring the 02 sensor and is running on the base map until its up to temp. Now, you get riding, everything warms up. Now we move into closed-loop where it starts looking at the 02 sensor. The AFV (of which there are actually 2 values for this... instant and average) is nothing more than a way for the bike to say, ok, I need the 14.7:1 but because of less restrictive exhaust/intake, altitude, riding style, etc., I need to apply a certain variable (above or below) the base map so it gets that ratio. So the first time you hit a set of inputs (TP, speed, engine load) the bike may not run smooth. But hold it there for a bit and it'll learn what it needs to. Now, the next time you go back to that same spot in the fuel map, it applies the acquired value and you don't have to wait for it to learn again. Over time, you get a "personalized" map based on what you put the bike through. I experienced this whole process when I thought I had an ECM problem (which didn't wind up being the problem). I replaced the ECM but it wound up being the engine temp sensor (I have Al to thank for helping me with that). Later on, I got a new exhaust and open up the intake. So the ECM kept learning with each change. Recently, I threw the other ECM back in and it ran like C*R*A*P. But I rode it for a while and everything smoothed right out.

I say all that because as you go up in altitude your AFV should go down.. not up. One of the (dare I say main) causes of a elevated AFV is bad intake seals. This is because the 02 sensor is reporting more air than the bike was expecting.... more air more gas. High AFV is the bike's way of adjusting for a LEAN condition... its adding fuel to maintain the ratio. Vice-versa for low. Normal operating range is between 95 and 120ish.
So one makes the argument that they stay at the same elevation. Ok, what happens when your air filter starts to get clogged? Less air right? The bike responds by pulling back the fuel... lowered AFV... Don't forget, atomized gas has a cooling effect as well. I regularly ride in 100degF weather. Its not a stretch to think the AFV might help keep the temps in check when you're stuck in traffic for 20minutes by intentionally creating a rich mixture. If it where hot enough to be running with the fan on and the mixture was lean, I think you'd have serious pre-det. because the gas would want to ignite too soon. Whatever the case, having a proper AFV range is crucial.

Most of the people here have your best interest at heart (including myself). So before you go telling people they don't know shit about what they're talking about, check yourself.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

Can i ask you why this map at this link https://sites.google.com/site/ecmspy/xb12/2009 tuned by a guy who knows enough to have created this web site has the o2 disabled?




Well, making websites and tuning bikes are two different things. Just because someone can bake a cake dosen't mean they can roast a pig.

But the map is probably great for the track, given controlled conditions. The street is different on the other hand.


quote:

Can I also ask if its better left on then why is it running so much better. Let me make this more clear, its running great.




How the bike runs depends on the amount of fuel and spark timing. The bikes are lean from the factory to meet EPA requirements. Add more fuel, its going to run better.


quote:

Only I choose to try it due to it starting out so great and them slowly changing to run not as great once it warmed up. It was my idea to box in/ disable my o2 sensor. It now starts great, and runs great.




The O2 sensor doesn't come into play when you first start the bike, as it uses the base fuel map plus enrichens it a bit like a choke, slowly reducing back to the base map till it warms up. When the bike is at normal operating tempuratue, it starts to meter the O2 sensor, and with the map you are running, it sees that the bike is running too rich, and will lean it out. Unfortunately, in its efforts to lean it out it ends up running worse than stock. Boxing in the O2 sensor like that will make the bike not lean itself out.


quote:

so I gues I need to continue looking for another map that when it adjusts it will still run great.




Pretty much. A good street map will run great at all RPMs, and not lean itself out. You might be able to tweak your current map to do this.


quote:

Fortunatly i can try as many maps as I choose to cause I didnot buy a race ecm I flashed my own.




I've reflashed my Race ECM a few times : )
(Mostly because it was programmed for the Race Pipe but I am running a Micron full system)


quote:

It just bothers me when people are affraid to use and aquire there own skills and instaintly diss me for trying.




You are misinterpreting the posts then, we are just trying to help you out. Honestly I personally don't care what you do to your bike, as you are the one that has to ride it, but I will voice my opinion so that you can see there are two sides to the coin and what you are doing may not be as great as you think. Also, I don't know if you are aware, but Xopti is one of the best resources for ECM/tuning information. Hell, he is one of the main reasons Tunerpro works with the bikes. : )



quote:

Hey Froggy, what do you think about giving my o2 sensor a larger range to adjust its self?




That wont be the answer unfortunately. If you unbox it, the AFV will want to drop considerably. After it gets to about 80 or lower, it is going to start to run bad overall. Also the stock O2 sensor is whats called a narrow band sensor. It only has a limited reading range, and outside that range it isn't accurate. When tuning you should use a wide band sensor which while costing more, has a larger operating range.

The bike is going to want to try and run at 14.7:1 AFR, but the map was programmed for 13.5 cruise. It will fight itself. You need a map that was programed to run great at 14.7 cruise.



quote:

So maybe I could just raise the bottom to keep it from adjusting to that point of runnung like crap, and still leave a range of values open enough for it to adjust higher when it needs.




Yea you can do that, but I doubt it will ever adjust the AFV above 100 as it is too rich to start with.


quote:

I may raise my low AFV values to 100 and my high to 110 so the bike has the ablity to adjust to altitude.




AFV will go down as your altitude increases. The higher you go, the air gets thinner, and less can be pumped into the engine. As result, less fuel needs to be added, so the AFV will decrease. Your map may be great for running at 5000' or something like that, but it is too rich for sea level.


Buell_41 - Bingo. That was said better than I ever could. : )
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Fast1075
Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bit of a hijack, but here is a question...at idle to light throttle, EGO voltage is very unstable...is this normal or should it change values slowly??? The surging seems to follow the voltage fluctuation.

I am still chasing that annoying off idle surge...I now have a race ecm that although it made a world of performance difference, the surging is extremely annoying. (surges the same as the stock ecm.)
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Buell_41
Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

short answer... both.

This is kinna where I get into mirky waters but on my '04 12S and ECMSpy in around 90deg F ambient temperature it starts out around .5V and for about 100 seconds I've observed a slow steady rise to .55V. I don't know what triggers the change in behavior but after that it goes into what is called "O2 crossings". Basically, the 02 reports a "lean" or "rich" mixture after each combustion stroke which is centered on .5V (I believe above .5V is rich and below is lean?). The more of these crossings, the better as this is what some refer to as the "resolution" of the sensor. Something like .1-1V is the "normal" range.

There are all kinds of nooks and crannies to this ECM... Things like open-loop learn(no O2 sensor). Also, people will tell you that closed-loop doesn't happen below something like 1200rpm? Well, ECMSpy clearly disagrees with that (see below).





Not sure what you mean by surging but, most will tell you that with some careful datalogging, you can tweak the fuel map for that area of the map which for my bike would be in the area of 5.1deg TPS by 1000rpm.
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Fast1075
Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It has had an intermittent miss at part throttle since i got it...It is not from any of the following items. plugs, wires, incorrect tps set, tps, iat, ets, or ecm.

With the stock ecm, it had very jerky throttle response off idle and that bucking annoying surge/miss at part throttle.

After the exhaust and new race ecm, it still has the surge and a part throttle "flutter" much like a 2 stroke with a fat pilot jet or wrong slide cutaway.....when you jack the throttle all the issues go away in a mad rush....but I don't always ride in a mad rush....it is extremely irritating in city traffic....would be no problem at all at
the track...
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Buell_41
Posted on Wednesday, August 25, 2010 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think I know what you're talking about... My bike pretty much HATES EVERYTHING below 20mph in first gear. I seem to remember it having something to do with the shape of the throttle cam on the handle. That shape changed in the years after '04. But yeah, I have to slip the clutch like you wouldn't believe when the traffic that is moving at that pace where you're moving just fast enough to not have to put your foot down. VERY annoying. One of the downsides of a 1.2liter torque factory!!!

But yeah, other than trying to pull out full grow oak trees, first gear is just there to get you into 2nd. LOL!
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