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Cataract2
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 12:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, I wrote a while back about my 2005 XB9SX idle being a bit off. After the bike was hot (fan running when key off) and it sat for maybe 10 minutes. I would go to restart it and the idle would bog down. It would start at 1000 rpm then slowly go down to 600 and stall.

Well, I just got back from a trip and now it's doing it at cold start as well. It will start at 1000 rpm and go to 800 then 600 and stall. It does this until it seems to go into closed loop and then it idles normal at 1050-1150.

I'm wondering if anyone else has had this happen and if so, how did you fix it? I myself and wondering if my IAT sensor maybe feeding it bad info. I know it could be the engine temp sensor, but it doesn't make sense in that it still knows when to go to closed loop.
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Cataract2
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bump. Anyone?
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Cataract2
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, more info. I started my XB up this morning and it idled fine with no drops in idle. I had ECMSpy hooked up and found that the idle was sitting around 850-950 but was steady. I got the engine temp up to 140C and it was still idling at ~950 range. I decided to turn the idle up to where it's suppose to be (1050-1150). From what I could see on ECMSpy all the sensors (IAT and Engine Temp, etc) were reporting like they should. Nothing seemed out of range. My cold start enrich was sitting at 140% when I started it and it changed down to 105% after the bike got warm.

Now, I don't suppose my idle being set low could have caused the idle issues where it would drop to 800 then 600 and then die?
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Glitch
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Now, I don't suppose my idle being set low could have caused the idle issues where it would drop to 800 then 600 and then die?
Why not?
You know how finicky these idles are.
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Cataract2
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 06:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah, I suppose so. Time will tell. My wife and I have another trip planned for next weekend.
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Glitch
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Can you ride it before then?
I'd hate to read about you and your wife not enjoying a ride.
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Cataract2
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It works fine once it's ran for a bit and goes into closed loop. I do plan on riding it to work this week. It's a good 28 mile round trip to work and back.
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Xoptimizedrsx
Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 01:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

get the bike warm now see what the ego is at idle. if its high you need more fuel. you want a ego at 100. note the idle rear fuel on a xb bike is about 6 point higher on the front than the rear. once you get the tpsdegree ego fuel set do this. turn the tps up till the blue tracer dot is centered in the next higher rpm window and set the ego again. then turn it up one more time and repete.
once done blend the surrounding cellsinto thies three presets and back the tps back to where it needs to be. what this does is sets the bike off idle fuel to what it likes and sets the ego to the running temp at idle not relying on the o2 to adjust idle. also not you must wait till the bike is 135 deg before making adjustments in this area. if its below that you have a few things fighting you temp correction, engine temp correction, auto advance timing and a few other corrections you dont see in ecmspy. no reread my terrible middle of the night writing and try this. you will see its a good plan.

also check the tps screws on the TB to make sure they are tight.

once set correctly it will run much better. I actually set my idle rpm at 4 positions then blend from there. once blended i run it all through the wideband to verify its correct and the engine is smooth.

I also did test to make a stumble and get ride of the stumble. i set the dual bands on wb data and set the afr at a cruise rpm even. if i set the cylinders even its smooth and good. if the cylinders are offset at different afr the bike runs wierd. I made it smooth up to 16 afr no bucks or kicks but if i got the afr off from one to the other cylinder more than 1.5 afr i started noticing a more ruff running engine. which also did the same at 13.0 afr and 14.5 afr combo's.

i now have a cruise fuel at 15.7 and 62 mpg running at the same heat volume at 14.2 and 14.7 actually runs hotter than them all according to the logger data on the engine sensors. so balance the afr between cylinders and all is well at lean and rich rpms. I prefer a no load cruise 15.0 or up to 16.0 afr balanced and set to drop to 13.2 at tp change by adjusting the acel tables...

(tunerpro rt v5 logger to come public soon)


mike
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Hammer71
Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 01:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Been having the same issue and I have one of Xopti's maps. I'd love to do what what described above but I havent the slightest clue as to what any of it means.

Like the post above at initial startup bike will idle like shit (up and down drastically damn near die or die completely) Once warmed up all is fine and runs like a raped ape.

Help that I can understand would be appreciated as Im not the most computer literate individual
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Cataract2
Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, so far the bike has been good with the idle set to 1050-1150 when the engine temp is at 140C. I set it with the engine temp there per to ECMSpy guide. Will give it some time to see how it's doing. Crossing fingers.
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Hammer71
Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah same here, idle spot on at 1050 with maybe 20 or so rpm fluctuation when warm (smooth as glass). It only runs like crap at initial startup which is why i havent really gotten into what the problem might be.
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Cataract2
Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I aim to have my idle sitting at ~1100 rpm at 140C. When I set it there things seem to have cleared up. Time will tell.

Do you have ECMSpy to see what your engine is doing at cold start up?
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1324
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 07:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have also encountered very similar problems as what you guys list. Not coincidentally, these issues aligned with changing from a stock exhaust to Drummer and doing some custom tuning. It'd idle fine with my original stock map (with a slightly modified idle), but wouldn't run worth a damn on the race map. Since then, I've opted to make my own map which has yielded GREAT results with the exception of a sometimes flaky idle.

My bike will typically restart fine once warm, but initial startup is a concern. It seems the hotter the ambient air temperature (was 100 when I left work yesterday, sitting in sun), the worse it idles. I typically don't have any issues when I leave the house in the morning in the 50-60 degree area. Doesn't idle smooth as glass, but it doesn't stall, either.

I've contemplated raising my idle a bit, but my experience shows this to be a touchy area. Raise it too much and the RPM's hang when coming to a stop. Lower it too much ( like it is now) and starts are tempermental. Hard to find that happy medium it seems.
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