| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
Anyone ever done it? Whats involved? My front rotor hardware is shot... Might even end up getting a new rotor (and I'd assume pads... even though mine have some meat). When I have done brake pad changes recently though I have noticed all the pistons don't come out at the same time, actually two (near bottom or top, can't recall) move and the others pretty much stay put unless I hold the two that do move in. I saw that the regular ZTL rebuild kit is under $35, assuming the ZTL2 is not much more. If its not too hard I might do that while I am doing all the other work. | ||
| Glitch |
In a nutshell, you're going to take apart your caliper, pull the pistons, and replace the O rings, and put it all back together, bleed and go. If you're replacing the rotor, you'd do well to replace the brake pads as well, they're worn to the old rotor, and wouldn't do your new rotor any favors. | ||
| 4cammer |
Not hard at all. The factory shop manual is your friend in situations like this. Will save time, $$$, and the need to visit your local HD "tech". | ||
| New12r |
The pistons are supposed to act the way you describe when compressing them. You have to do all six at once. When you pull the brake lever the hydraulic fluid moves through the line to ALL 6 pistons at once, applying even pressure on both sides of the rotor. When you push one piston in, the other 5 want to come out as a result of the fluid not having anywhere else to go. If you are rebuilding based on that I would say get a tech to fix it for ya as you dont understand enough of how the braking system works to take it apart. Not a dig, I just dont know you and really would rather the job get done right considering the front brakes are critical on a sport bike. Anyhow, what is THE problem. My hardware is shot tells me nothing. Are the pistons STICKING when you are trying to push them in? Does it pulsate in the lever/front end when you apply the brake? Do the brakes make noise? Does the bike continue to stop even tho the lever is no longer being pulled? If your rotor hardware is shot(I am assuming that is what my hardware is shot means) I would get a new rotor and EBC or Lyndall pads before I rebuilt the caliper. In just over 75k miles on 2 Buell XB's I have never had a caliper issue, and I abuse the brakes beyond NORMAL use. (Message edited by new12r on July 04, 2010) | ||
| Jraice |
Cocky are we  . Just playing but hardware shot statement is due to fact that my rotor makes a cling sound when tapped near four of the mounting points... Clicks when lightly braking and in some of the mounting points can even be felt to be loose. So I know I need new hardware but a new rotor is needed as well? To clarify on caliper (a separate issue) when the pads are removed and the brake lever is squeezed only one or two pistons extend and it is my understanding that they all should move equally. Is that incorrect? No braking issues have occurred such as dragging or pulsing but I just want to make sure it's all I'm good working order before tossing a $300 rotor and new pads on. I don't know you or how you ride but in 12,500 miles I have worn out almost 4 sets of brake pads. I'm not light on them. But I'd appreciate some input as to whether my caliper sounds fine or I'm correct and all pistons should move when lever is depressed as well as whether I only need new mounting hardware or a new disc and pad set. Thanks | ||
| New12r |
Cocky, why yes very much so thank you! LOL Well I have NEVER depressed my brake lever without the pads installed so I dont know how they react. IF one of the pistons pops out then I will have to rebuild it. I spent the better part of 13 years as an auto tech and rebuilt many calipers for co workers(myself a time or two as well) who hit the brake pedal without the caliper installed. Clicks when lightly braking and in some of the mounting points can even be felt to be loose. The clicks while braking happens to me all the time. Check your steering head bearing torque first. The rotor feeling loose is not really bad, it is a floating rotor and should move a little. I would do new rotor($175 with hardware) and EBC HH pads ($45), flush the brake fluid and be done with it. If you want to save some $$$ you could get new pads and hardware but in my experience that has not been a successful route. | ||
| Jraice |
Thanks for your input! The brakes operate just fine i just noticed some of the mounts aren't as secure and allow the rotor to move. | ||
| Akbuell |
Short version is if both brake pads show the same amount of wear, and the caliper is not leaking fluid, the caliper is fine. And one or more pads moving while others stay put while the pads are out is not at all unusual. If one pad is worn much more than the other, then one or more pistons may be stuck, and a rebuild may be in order. The FSM is you friend. | ||
| Jraice |
Thanks! I will install the new mounting hardware and call it good to go. Pads are wearing very evenly. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Take the time to thoroughly clean all the brake pistons before you shove them back in the caliper to make room for the new pads. The accumulated brake dust can make the pistons hang up in the seals, causing problems like sticking brakes, etc. An old T-shirt works well for the "front" sides of the pistons, a length of twine or an old shoe string wrapped around each piston will get the "back" side clean. |
